Changing Lanes

By Chris Massey
September 8, 2008
0810_melbourne
The stylish Aussie city of Melbourne is home to Flinders Quarter—hidden laneways in the midst of a renaissance. Here, 10 addresses worth a look-see.

1. The Platform Artists Group takes underground art to another level: The pink-tiled contemporary-art gallery is located in a subway station beneath the Degraves Street underpass. Site-specific sculptures, photographs, and paintings are displayed in the nooks and crannies of the art deco–style station, originally built for the 1956 Melbourne Olympic Games. platform.org.au.

2. At the Little Cupcakes bakery, pastry chef Jamie Min specializes in small snacks: a couple bites' worth of mini buttercream-frosted cupcakes. Popular flavors include passion fruit, coconut, lemon, and Belgian dark chocolate, which pairs nicely with a "babychino." But try to get there before the nearby high school lets out, or you'll miss out. 7 Degraves St., 011-61/3-9077-0413, littlecupcakes.com.au, from $2.50.

3. Karen Rieschieck named her Alice Euphemia boutique after a respected seamstress in Melbourne. To stock her offbeat clothing and accessories shop, Rieschieck regularly makes the rounds at fashion schools across Australia and New Zealand to scout up-and-coming talent. One of her latest finds is Jade Sarita Arnott, a crafter of whimsical quilted dresses and coats. 37 Swanston St., 011-61/3-9650-4300, aliceeuphemia.com.

4. Brother-and-sister design team Alex and Georgie Cleary opened their new Alphaville boutique in the former library of St. Paul's Cathedral in 2006, making it one of the first shops to take up residence on a Melbourne laneway. They replaced the bookshelves with racks of Alex's T-shirt dresses and men's tees that Georgie silk-screens with images of pop-culture icons such as River Phoenix. 201 Flinders Ln., 011-61/3-9663-3002, alpha60.com.au.

5. The main branch of The Australian College of Hair Design and Beauty offers facials, massages, body wraps, and manicures at sinfully affordable prices—a one-hour massage is $34. Care to splurge? You can get a facial, foot treatment, hot-stone massage, and body exfoliation package for $190. 234 Flinders Ln., 011-61/3-9654-7130, achdb.com.au.

6. The glass-and-slate Hotel Causeway is steps from the Howey Place Arcade, Melbourne's boutique shopping area. The hotel's rooms have dark-burgundy furnishings and bathrooms with deep soaker tubs; the glassed-in penthouse gym has panoramic views of the city. 275 Little Collins St., 011-61/3-9660-8888, hotelcauseway.com.au, from $157.

7. The hotel happens to be around the corner from the best breakfast and brunch spot in town, Pushka. The five-table café makes a killer espresso, along with "crazy toast" (Vegemite and avocado) and co-owner Tim Dunn's wildly popular "eggs & soldiers," soft-boiled eggs served with toast sticks. Pushka also has the tiniest art gallery in Melbourne—a one-foot-tall glass display case that features a different artist each month. 20 Presgrave Pl., breakfast from $5.

8. On any given night, groups of Asian exchange students, young hipster couples, and grandparents with their grandkids squeeze into the communal tables at Shanghai Dumpling Restaurant. The family-run eatery earned its cult following thanks to its belly-filling dumplings made with pork, beef, or seasonal vegetables—and served by the 6, 12, or 20 count. 25 Tattersalls Ln., 011-61/3-9663-8555, from $5.50.

9. You'll have to maneuver through a maze of winding alleys to get to The Croft Institute. The three-story bar was once a psychiatric hospital, which explains why the place is outfitted with beakers, test tubes, and old-fashioned gurneys. The drinks menu is just as quirky, including a "Death in the Afternoon" cocktail laced with absinthe. On the weekends, DJs spin everything from drum and bass to hip-hop in the bar's top-floor gymnasium. 21 Croft Alley, 011-61/3-9671-4399, thecroftinstitute.com.au, drinks from $7.

10. At Von Haus, a shabby-chic wine bar that opened this year, nearly every wine on the list is available by the glass, including boutique pours from Tasmania, New Zealand, and Hungary. Von Haus also has small-plate nibbles such as house-cured salmon and trout, homemade pâté, and a creamy walnut-and-honey tart that's sold by the inch. 1A Crossley St., 011-61/3-9662-2756, wine from $5.

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(Ancient) Green Acres

Mound City The Army used the 23 grass-covered hillocks that form Mound City as a World War I campsite. Today, visitors can wander the 13 acres of ancient burial mounds. You can also learn about the people who built the structures—they left no record of a written language—at a museum displaying such artifacts as copper bird cutouts and blades carved from obsidian. 16062 State Rte. 104, Chillicothe, 740/774-1126, open year-round. Fort Ancient Around 2,000 years ago, Native American builders sliced the topsoil off a 125-acre, hourglass-shaped bluff using the shoulder blades of deer, and then they molded the excess dirt into Fort Ancient's serpentine walls. The site has 2.5 miles of hiking trails and a replica of a traditional dwelling built with mud plaster and woven saplings that you can visit. 6123 State Rte. 350, Oregonia, 800/283-8904, Apr.–Oct., museum $8. The Octagon In addition to being skilled engineers, the creators of the mounds were astute astronomers. The best way to view this 60-acre site (only part of which is shown here) on a golf course in Newark is from a 10-foot observation tower when the moon is out. Throughout the lunar cycle, the moon aligns with different points of the octagon and its adjoining circle. 125 N. 33rd St., Newark, 800/600-7178, open year-round. Serpent Mound For a bird's-eye view of the 1,348-foot-long snake—the largest effigy mound in the world—climb the 35-foot tower. The serpent, which appears to be swallowing a big egg, was sculpted across the grassy hilltop nearly 1,000 years ago. The snake's head was designed to align with the summer-solstice sunset, and the coils point to the winter-solstice sunrise. 3580 State Rte. 73, Peebles, 937/587-2796, May–Oct., parking $7.

How Was Your Trip?

"We Were a World Away" The U.S. and New Zealand share a language, but Robert and Barbara found that, in many ways, the similarities stop there. "All of the pressure and the politics in the U.S.—we just didn't feel that there," says Robert. "It was refreshing!" Meats on wheels The BBQ Bus tour made a stop for kebabs and sausages and then went on to Milford Sound, where Barbara and Robert took a short cruise. Fit family The Page family hiked to a park outside of Christchurch. "It was kind of a trek, so we stopped at the lodge up top for drinks and cookies," says Robert. Hut sweet hut At a penguin sanctuary on the Otago Peninsula, the Pages watched as the birds waddled back to wooden huts at the end of the day. Lure lore Nina gave her dad a jade necklace for his birthday. "It's supposed to keep me safe on the water," Robert says. View to a thrill The Pages were struck by New Zealand's stunning views, like the one overlooking Tunnel Beach. "The country is just ridiculously beautiful," Robert says. Zip-a-dee-doo-dah Nina's good friend Addie braved a 720-foot-long zip line. "Robert and I passed," says Barbara. Teach a man to fish Robert caught several snapper on a fishing-boat tour. "The captain told me about a shop that would fry them up for us," he says. "We ate fish-and-chips and drank a couple of big beers." Cheers! The Pages bought some wine at a winery near Queenstown. Later, they drank it on the balcony of the chalet where they stayed.

Making the Most of New Zealand

Interested in getting coached? E-mail us your questions—seriously, the more the better—to Letters@BudgetTravel.com. Want advice? Log on for our weekly Online Trip Coach chats, Tuesdays at noon (ET), and let our experts answer your questions. Click here to submit questions and browse our archived chat transcripts. DEAR TRIP COACH... We're heading to New Zealand to travel with our daughter, Nina, who's studying in Dunedin, and two of her friends. We enjoy beaches, hiking, good wine, and locally grown food. Robert and Barbara Page, Hardwick, Mass. FIRE AWAY! Should we rent a car or try to see everything by bus? Without a doubt, get your own wheels. You'd eat up too much time trying to coordinate bus schedules and then wind up missing sights as you rode past. Just keep in mind that Kiwis drive on the left side of the road, like the British. We get to Auckland in the morning, and we're not meeting our daughter until later that day. How should we kill time in between? You'll probably be exhausted from your long plane trip, but do your best to stay awake until you adjust to local time. Stretch your legs, drink lots of water, and get some fresh air. Auckland's Sky Tower is a great place to get a feel for the lay of the land. Be on the lookout for bungee jumpers leaping off the side of the 1,076-foot tower (011-64/9-363-6000, skycityauckland.co.nz, observation deck admission $19). Back on the ground, stroll among the 65-plus shops and vendors selling jewelry, crafts, and clothing at Victoria Park Market, which has live music at lunchtime on the weekends (victoria-park-market.co.nz). Or walk along Ponsonby Road, an adorable drag with galleries, restaurants, and shops (ponsonbyroad.co.nz). Just off the road is Western Park, a green space laced with walkways. Any recommendations for casual restaurants where locals eat? Pubs are hugely popular with New Zealanders. The Gables is the quintessential local pub, with quiz nights and hearty food (248 Jervois Rd., 011-64/9-376-4994, entrées from $9). The Belgian Beer Café, a chain with great steak frites and rich Belgian brews, is a little more upscale. At the Ponsonby location, in an ornate former post office, you can eat in a courtyard (1-3 St. Mary's Rd., 011-64/9-376-6092, theponsonby.co.nz, entrées from $11). You'll get breakfast at your B&B, but save room for a second round at 5 Loaves & 2 Fish. The friendly local favorite is revered for its strong coffee, tasty egg burritos, and thick, honey-cured bacon (208 Jervois Rd., 011-64/9-361-5820, breakfast from $6.50). What route should we drive to Northland? Take the Twin Coast Discovery Highway, which loops around the region. Do the east coast section in one direction and the west coast section in the other. If you time your trip right, you can catch a sunrise along the east section or a sunset along the west. Where should we stop on the way? BeesOnline, about 45 minutes north of Auckland, produces gourmet honeys and has an unassuming café that's big on local ingredients. Ask your waiter for whatever's freshest and see if you can taste the honey—there's some in every dish (791 State Hwy. 16, Waimauku, 011-64/9-411-7953, beesonline.co.nz, entrées from $13.50). Farther north, visit the 82-foot-high Whangarei Falls (whangareinz.com, free). The ocean isn't visible from most of the highway, so you'll have to detour a bit to see the water. Two worthwhile spots are Aranga Beach, where a steep hike leads to views at Maunganui Bluff (kauricoast.co.nz), and, 28 miles northwest of Auckland, Muriwai Beach, a craggy, dramatic stretch with lots of crashing surf (muriwai.com). Can you suggest an easy, scenic hike near Paihia? A Fullers Bay of Islands passenger ferry departs Paihia every half hour and, in about 15 minutes, reaches Russell, New Zealand's first permanent European settlement—now a vacation town (Paihia Wharf, Marsden Rd., Paihia, 011-64/9-402-7421, fboi.co.nz, $8 round trip). A walking path leads about a mile—with a few steep inclines—to the peak of Flagstaff Hill, which lies at the north end of the town. A Maori chief became famous for repeatedly ordering that the British flag here be cut down. At the top, there's a 360-degree view of the surrounding islets, beaches, and deep-blue waters of the Bay of Islands region (doc.govt.nz, free). We're flying to the South Island to visit Christchurch and Queenstown. Where should we eat? For a special meal in the heavily British-influenced city of Christchurch, try Curator's House Restaurant. The lamb and seafood are superb, and the setting—a Tudor mansion beside the Avon River in the Christchurch Botanic Gardens—might be even better (7 Rolleston Ave., 011-64/3-379-2252, curatorshouse.com, entrées from $13). Nearby, in a fantastic stone building that wouldn't look out of place in Oxford, England, is Annies Wine Bar & Restaurant, a more casual option that still works for a nice lunch or dinner and has a wonderful wine list (The Arts Centre, 1 Worcester Blvd., 011-64/3-365-0566, annieswinebar.co.nz, lunch from $12.50, dinner entrées from $20). Queenstown is full of decent pubs and restaurants, but for something different, go to Joe's Garage, a hip, laid-back café with toasted sandwiches and tasty all-day breakfast (Searle Ln., off Camp St., 011-64/3-442-5282, sandwiches $8). Finding a place to relax is a challenge in Queenstown, the so-called adrenaline capital of the world. If you're craving a little peace and quiet, drive 10 minutes from downtown to Amisfield Winery & Bistro, housed in a stone-and-timber building. Go for lunch so you can take in the views of the vineyards (10 Lake Hayes Rd., 011-64/3-442-0556, amisfield.co.nz, lunch from $12). Where can we find a nice setting for a wine tasting near Christchurch? About an hour north of town, Pegasus Bay Winery is a standout—and not just for its smooth reds. The gardens are teeming with fruit trees and herbs for the restaurant, and the rolling hills and vineyards look like they're right out of southern France. Both restaurant and winery rely on sustainable organic practices (263 Stockgrove Rd., Waipara, 011-64/3-314-6869, pegasusbay.com). Just outside the coastal town of Akaroa, on the peninsula southeast of Christchurch, French Farm Winery & Restaurant has a Tuscan-style restaurant; during the warmer months—usually late October through late March—the outdoor pizzeria is open. Order a couple of thin-crust pies to go with the wines (12 Winery Rd., Akaroa, 011-64/3-304-5784, frenchfarm.co.nz, pizzas from $17). We'd love to go horseback riding near Queenstown. Is that possible? Certainly. A 15-minute drive from town, Moonlight Stables is an 800-acre ranch with rides through open fields that look up to mountain peaks (69 Morven Ferry Rd., 011-64/3-442-1229, moonlightcountry.co.nz, rides from $71). The scenery at Dart Stables, 45 minutes from town, where some footage for The Lord of the Rings was filmed, is absolutely spectacular (58 Coll St., Glenorchy, 011-64/3-442-5688, dartstables.com, rides from $90). Unasked-for advice Visit the seaside town of Oamaru in the early evening, when the amazingly cute Oamaru blue penguins march back to their nests after a long day of fishing (Waterfront Rd., Oamaru, 011-64/3-433-1195, penguins.co.nz, $15).