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Amsterdam is a little city with a big reputation. The pulsating heart of the Netherlands, the 'Venice of the North' -- with its beautiful canals and rich history -- is an utterly unique travel destination. As well as being home to the world-famous Anne Frank House and Van Gogh Museum, it's renowned across the planet for its remarkably liberal attitudes. Both Brad Pitt and David Bowie were so charmed by the city that they bought houses here -- and its been featured in movies from Hitchcock's "Foreign Correspondent" (1940) to Bond movie "Diamonds are Forever" (1971) and, more recently, Steven Soderbergh's "Ocean's Twelve" (2004). One of the world's best kept secrets. Amsterdam resident and writer Pip Farquharson will answer your travel questions Tuesday, April 5, at 12pm EST. Pip Farquharson twirled into the world during the Swinging Sixties in Southampton, England (where Titanic left on her fateful maiden voyage over half-a-century earlier...). She spent her formative years in Africa and Scotland, before returning to her homeland to get an education. A partied-out 20-something, she emerged from university with a degree in animation -- and no idea what to do. So, like any sensible person, she went on holiday! She left for two weeks in Amsterdam, fell in love with it -- and never came back. She's had a love affair with the city for more than 13 years. She works as a freelance writer and has contributed to various travel guides such as Time Out, Dorling Kindersley and Virgin; written about the arts for the Financieele Dagblad (Financial Times) and Holland Herald (KLM's inflight magazine); and consulted on TV documentaries for the BBC, MTV and Lonely Planet. She also deejays and has her own website on her beloved city -- created for discerning travellers and 'Amsterdwellers' -- at underwateramsterdam.com/ _______________________ Pip Farquharson: Hello from Amsterdam I'm now online to take some of your questions... PiP _______________________ Towson, MD: What time of the year is considered "off-seaon" in Amsterdam? Also, what is the best time of year to visit weather wise? Pip Farquharson: I never really see Amsterdam as having an off-season as there's always so much to do all year round! I guess though I would avoid January and February as it can be quite cold. Though that said it was at the beginning of March - very unusually - that we just had a huge snowstorm! The summer months here are June, July and August but the city can be hot and crowded and terraces and parks full. I always think Spring is the best time of year to visit (bright sun, not too hot, there aren't the crowds and the city is just starting to come aliveÉ). Or the Fall. _______________________ Portland, OR: What is the name of the great beer store right off the Dam Square and do you know if they have a website? Pip Farquharson: Know it. Love it. It's De Bierkoning debierkoning.nl/You might also want to check out Brouwerij 't IJ (Funenkade 7) when you're next over (a micro-brewery nextdoor to a windmill in the east of the city) which makes some fantastic beer. Their website is hrouwerijhetij.nl/ _______________________ Tacoma, WW: We're planning a trip to Amsterdam with our two 17 year olds (one boy, one girl). They are both musicians, with eclectic tastes. Question #1: What are the age limits in music clubs in Amsterdam? Question #2: Do you have any suggestions for particular clubs? They are more interested in an intimate club experience as opposed to the Big-Name concerts at very large venues. For example, they like: Singer-songwriter emo, Speed Metal, Progressive Rock, Jazz, Fusion-whatever Pretty much all they don't like is Rap and most hip-hop. Thanks for your help! Pip Farquharson: Firstly, I'm so with them on the rap and hip-hop ;-) Anyway, to answer Question #1: you're in luck! The age limits in music venues is 16 for concerts and 18 for night programme (parties etc). As well as being intimate, two of the best venues offering a great selection of international acts (such as Black Eyed Peas, Suzanne Vega, Jill Scott, as well as more alternative bands like 50 Foot Wave), are also located within a minute's walk from each other in the center of town (Leidseplein). They are the Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a) and Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8). Additionally, a brand new club - Sugar Factory (Lijbaansgracht 238) - opened at the beginning of April which has a good selection of alternative and local bands in its programming. Keep an eye out for Amsterdam's The Jack Stafford Foundation (they're going to be big). The Sugar Factory is directly opposite the Melkweg so all very convenient... What I might also suggest is the new location of the world-famous jazz venue Bimhuis (Piet Heinkade 3) which is at a beautiful new location on the waterfront, just east of Centraal Station. Here's their websites: httpweg.nl/httpdiso.nl/httprfactory.nl/httpuis.nl/Enjoy your trip! Amsterdam's a wonderful destination for families with teenagers. _______________________ Boscobel, WI: How can I go about moving to and living in Amsterdam? I am an American citizen Pip Farquharson: I think it can be quite a complicated process unless you have a job to go to but I'm not American so I don't know the details. Best to look at Expatica.com expatica.com/ which has a huge resource for people in your position. Certainly, you could meet people in the forums there who have made the move across the pond and ask them their experiences. Good luck! It's a beautiful city to live in! _______________________ Philadelphia, PA: Hi Pip. What's the scene for graphics employment presently there? I see all of these seminars (Flash Forward, XML, etc.) located in Amsterdam. Are there many jobs there now? How 'bout for US citizens? Any tips for job-getting strategies or current technologies sought after? Thanks so much. Pip Farquharson: Hi there... It's true, Amsterdam (and the Netherlands) are very advanced in graphics and such technologies. The city was, I believe, the first in the world to have its own internet (De Digitale Stad). I don't know about the current job climate concerning Graphics (even though I have BA Hons degree in Graphics!) but I would just do Google searches for individual companies and see what they have on their websites. There's quite a few of the best advertising agencies here too - such as Wieden & Kennedy, Kessels Kramer, Strawberry Frog etc - so they might be worth exploring. Good luck! _______________________ Concord, OH: Is the airline Transavia, which flies from Amsterdam to Verona, Italy an established, reliable airline, in good financial standing? I am looking for an economical flight and found through a Budget Travel article which gave a website on low-cost airlines in Europe. Is it comparable to perhaps Airtran or Southwest which flies in the states? Don't want to get stranded while I am over in Amsterdam without transportation to Verona. Is it safe to book on the web? Pip Farquharson: I can't predict the economical future but to the best of my knowledge Transavia are an established and reliable Dutch airline. I've flown with them before. I can't say how it compares to Airtran or Southwest as I've never been to the States - but don't worry you won't be stranded in Amsterdam! As for booking online. I haven't booked with Transavia (as they don't go London Gatwick where I often go), but I book regularly with British Airways and find it's very secure to do so online. Airlines tend to have very secure methods of payment on their websites. It's only extremely rarely things go wrong. Just make sure you receive confirmation of your booking which should be pretty instantaneous. _______________________ Allison Park, PA: My mother and I are taking a cruise of Europe in June and one port is Amsterdam. How safe is the city to explore on our own? Would we be better off staying with a tour? Thanks!! Pip Farquharson: How lovely. And you'll be arriving in the heart of the Eastern Docklands. Right by your berth is the new Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ (programming all sorts of music from minimalist to classical) and the world famous jazz venue Bimhuis, as well as 'Naked Chef' Jamie Oliver's restaurant Fifteen... Just a short walk away is the Stedelijk Museum of Modern art (cafe-restaurant 11 at the top has simply fantastic views across the city). Also within five or ten minutes walk you will be in the heart of Amsterdam. I wouldn't be concerned about safety. It is a safe city. A few people have sent questions about that so I will answer that more fully a little later. Bon voyage! _______________________ Chandler, AZ: Are you familiar with other Netherlands cities, such as Eindhoven? My husband has a job opportunity there but I know nothing about it and would like to hear about its pros and cons. I would like to hear how it compares to other European cities (I have traveled in Italy). Would it be a good place to live for a year? Thanks for any info. Pip Farquharson: I'm not that familiar with Eindhoven (home to electrical giants Philips) but I don't think it's one of the most interesting or charming cities in the Netherlands - certainly compared to Amsterdam, Utrecht, Rotterdam or Maastricht etc. That said, the Netherlands is so small that if your husband did relocate there, it's not far from those cities so I think it would actually be a great experience. A year isn't long at all. You could also try posting at the forums at Expatica.com htpatica.com/ whose site is aimed at expats who will have experienced the same dilemmas about relocation to the Netherlands, including Eindhoven. Go for it! _______________________ Anonymous: I will be in Amsterdam on May 21st. Are there any big tulip/flower festival in the area that weekend? Thanks. Pip Farquharson: Oh. What bad timing. THE tulip event of the year is Keukenhof, stunning multi-coloured tulip fields, but it closes on May 20th! Perhaps console yourself with the Singel Flower Market (a floating flower market in the center of town). Sorry. _______________________ NC: Dear Pip, are there any dangerous spots in Amsterdam that I should avoid? Pip Farquharson: This is also for Bloomfield Hills, MI and others who have asked about safety in Amsterdam... After Theo van Gogh's assasination last year, I know that people around the world have been worrying about Amsterdam being a safe destination. However, concerning personal safety - and as a woman - I feel very safe in the city. There aren't really any 'dangerous spots' as such apart from the obvious - i.e. Centraal Station (the city's train depot) late at night. And the Rembrandtplein (Rembrandt Square) can get quite rowdy particularly at night on weekends. The Red Light District does of course have its fair share of unsavoury characters - particularly along the Zeedijk street where junkies tend to amass in small groups. But I wouldn't say it was 'dangerous'. There's good police visibility here and I would simply advise common sense i.e. if a junkie talks to you just ignore them - don't engage in conversation. Take care if walking around there in the early hours of the morning and don't make it too obvious you're a tourist if you can. I think the biggest threat you might have in Amsterdam is pickpockets. I know it's always said but really keep your personal possessions secure and hidden (especially on trams!). And if you use taxis dial 677-7777 for a reputable licensed firm. _______________________ Chicago, IL: I will be travelling in the next month and will be stopping in Maastricht after Amsterdam. I haven't been able to find much info on Maastricht, can you help? Pip Farquharson: This is the official website of the tourist office (VVV) in Maastricht... vvvmaastricht.nl/ _______________________ Safety Harbor, FL: Hi, 3 questions: What is the best time of day to visit Keukenhof? Is it an all-day affair or can you do it in a half-day or so? Are there currently any major tram lines down due to construction? Thanks Pip Farquharson: Unless you're a morning person (I'm not) I would visit in the afternoon. You can do it in one afternoon. As for trams. There are a few major tram line alterations while the city is being dug up to make way for a new metro line. Currently it's mostly in De Pijp area. I would check the city's transport sight GVB at hvb.nl/ for news of individual lines. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Everything's pretty much within walking distance... _______________________ Santa Fe, NM: Hi, If you only had 4 days to spend in Amsterdam, What/where would you be sure to do see or go? Thanks Pip Farquharson: Also to: Washington, DC: What sites or itinerary would you recommend during a 2 day visit? St. Pete, FL: We are going to be in Amsterdam with 2 other couples April 23 to 28th. What are the top 3 off the beaten path things you would suggest we do? I would definitely go to the obvious - the Anne Frank House, Rijksmuseum (for the old Dutch masters) and Van Gogh Museum (which currently has a superb Egon Schiele retrospective until 19 June 2005). Additionally, perhaps check out one of the city's unique 'hidden churches' (these are churches that were secretly built when Catholic worship was banned in the 17th century). The two best examples are the Begijnhof on the Spui (in a house within a 'hidden' garden) and Amstelkring, a church in an attic at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 (within the Red Light District). I would also take a boat tour of the canals and just soak up Amsterdam by walking around in the old center and along the canals and visiting some of its more unique bars and sights. I have a list of my favourite places in Amsterdam in the Forum at http:wateramsterdam.com/ (see UnderwaterAmsterdam News) which you may find helpful... _______________________ Philadelphia, PA: We will be traveling to Amsterdam on May 31 and will spend two days there. We've not booked hotel yet as I don't know what area we should stay. We'd like something reasonably priced and centrally located. Any suggestions on where to stay and a suggested itinerary? Pip Farquharson: Also to all the people who are asking me questions about hotels: May 31 is a national holiday here so I would book that hotel fairly soon! As for which area to stay in... What a lot of people don't realise until they get here is that Amsterdam is actually quite a small place - about a tenth of the size of London. So, pretty much anywhere within the center - really IS in the center and never to far from anything. Most of the sites you'd want to see are no more than 30 minutes walk from anywhere in the center. I always find it hard when people ask for hotel suggestions as I never stay in them but there are plenty of hotels in the center general guidelines would be to try and aim for a hotel on a canal and, if possible, ask for a room with a view. You can check out details of individual hotels to suit at the various online hotel bookings websites. And if possible, try and find a map of Amsterdam online so you can refer to it when making a booking: htsterdam.info/ have maps on their site. And if you find one you like and want to run it by me before booking just contact me in the Forum at htderwateramsterdam.com/ _______________________ New York, NY: I'm going to be in Amsterdam for three days the last week in April, to go see the tulips and catch some of the party leading up to the Queen's birthday. The group I'm traveling with have all been to Amsterdam before and seen the essentials. What kind of weather can I expect? And what special thing should I try to squeeze in? Pip Farquharson: The weather in Amsterdam is always a little unpredictable to say the least. For the Queen's Birthday (or Queen's Day as it's called here), this year celebrating her 25 year jubilee) it could be either sunny or raining! It was sunny last year - around 17C (64F). The year before it was 10C (50F). Whatever the weather, your spirits won't be dampened as Queen's Day celebrations really are pretty incredible on first experience. It's like one huge - orange coloured - street party all across the city (orange is the country's national colour). About a million people come into Amsterdam for the event (which is larger than the actual population itself to give you an idea). And the special thing I suggest you try and squeeze in is a boat tour of the city (see also above to reply to earlier post about things to do). As for the tulips check out Keukenhof's website at httpenhof.nl/ _______________________ Andover, MN: No question, but a comment: I just returned from a 2 week high school trip to Europe including 2 days in Amsterdam at the main square (dam?). Although I was very aprehensive as a chaperone, I was pleasantly surprised by the experience. We had 30+ high school students who had plenty of free time that faired well in seeing what they wanted and arriving at our meeting places on time. It is a very beautiful city with lots of great shopping, scenery and cultural experiences. Pip Farquharson: That's great to hear... Thanks! It is an often overlooked European destination, compared to Paris or London, for example. _______________________ West Palm Beach, FL : Where do you recommend a Budget Traveler to stay in Amsterdam? Pip Farquharson: For something a little unusual and convenient, I would suggest the Amstel Botel (a hotel on a boat moored right handily by Centraal Station at Oosterdokskade 2-4, +31 20 626 4274). Definitely ask for a room with a view and you will be overlooking a lovely little dock with charming canal boats. Additionally, it's by the old center of town. Near the Leidseplein is the Hans Brinker Budget Hotel (Kerkstraat 136-8) which has a bar and restaurant and is popular with younger travellers.And Winston Hotel (Warmoesstraat 129, htnston.nl/) is a great budget hotel. On the edge of the Red Light District and on a street with some great bars, restaurants and cafes, it's also an 'art hotel' (all rooms are individually designed) and has a cool live music and club venue attached. _______________________ Tallahassee, FL: I will be visiting Amsterdam next month. I am a college student on a serious budget. What are some fun things to do in the city that are free or pretty cheap? Pip Farquharson: I would get hold of a copy of Get Lost! The Cool Guide to Amsterdam. It's aimed at budget travellers and has some great tips (and recommendations of freebies). It's written by a lovely Canadian guy called Joe Pauker who gives a very personal take on places in the city. The website is www.xs4all.nl/~getlost/ _______________________ Clifton NJ: In Amsterdam, everyone's English is so perfect. Is it even worth it to try some Dutch words, or is it a waste of time? Pip Farquharson: On one hand, it's polite to talk a few words of the language. However, as soon as the Dutch hear any trace of your accent, they will just start talking back to you in English. So, unless you're here for any length of time I wouldn't really bother. It's a bit of an ongoing battle for foreigners living here. Some of the Dutch really complain if you don't speak their language yet they still insist on talking back to you in English - even if they've understood what you've said in Dutch. _______________________ Phoenix, AZ: Pip, I heard that they are looking at making marijuana illegal in Amsterdamn? Won't this hurt your economy, or do you think you would still get an abundance of tourists? Pip Farquharson: There's always stories like that coming out now and again but I don't think they'll ever make it illegal. Mostly because it WOULD hurt the Dutch economy! Personally, I think the way they have decriminalised marijuana and handle the sale of it via coffeeshops is very responsible. It's like the way the French introduce wine to children at a young age so they don't turn into a nation of alcoholics. Also, if it's readily available it does haven't that 'we're doing something naughty' factor and to be honest, when it's there on your doorstep you just get bored of it after a while... Personally, I think alchohol is far more harmful than marijuana. _______________________ Philly, PA: Hi again, Pip. Thanks for your answer to my graphics question. Could you speak to the current influences bearing on your music? I mean, what are your interests lately? Are there any trends that you see developing? Do you see a positive direction happening in peoples' home studio music creation? Have a nice year, Pip. Pip Farquharson: Just quickly, one band that are based in Amsterdam that I'm very excited about are The Jack Stafford Foundation, fronted by a British guy. jackstafford.co.uk/ _______________________ Fort Myers, FL: We are going to Europe for 2 weeks next month and have a 3 day lay over in Amsterdam. We have reservations at a hotel near Centraal Station and we're considering taking the train in from the airport but were concerned about handling several larger pieces of luggage on to the train. Should we consider alternate transport? Pip Farquharson: The railway station is within Schiphol Airport and it has moving esalators going down onto the platforms. However, you could have problems when you get to Amsterdam's Centraal Station where there are no luggage trolleys for security reason. One of you will probably have to go and find a portier to help. Alternatively you could take a taxi (about 20 mins into Amsterdam), costs about 45 euros or, I believe, there's a bus that runs to the major hotels in Amsterdam which is free or very cheap. Look at the website of Schiphol as it might have some information or do a Google search hchiphol.nl/Happy hauling! _______________________ Tacoma, WA: Follow up to my age/club question. What is the drinking (legal!) age in Amsterdam? What is the coffeeshop (illegal! sort of) age in Amsterdam? Here's a more pedestrian question. If you rent a bike in Amsterdam, do you need to bring your own bike lock, or will they provide one? That's more of a cyclical question than a pedestrian one, but hey. Final Question: Do you have any reservations about a couple of pretty street-wise, well traveled 17-year-old kids (1 male, 1 female) crusing around Amsterdam on their own? At night? Around clubs? Pip Farquharson: I think the legal drinking age is 18 but don't quote me on that... I've never had to think about it... Coffeeshops you do have to be over 18! But you could always buy some yourselves and smoke it back at your hotel or in a park with your kids. Have no reservations about street-wise kids cruising around Amsterdam at night - but you know them better! _______________________ Seattle, WA: Any recommendations for companies that offer cycling tours of the Netherlands? We're interested in a week-long tour. And is spring the best time to tour by bike? Pip Farquharson: Try this cycletours.com/Spring is a divine time to tour... _______________________ Tacoma, WA: A follow up to your answer: What is a night programme? Do the under-18-year-olds have to leave clubs at a certain time, like say 22:00 or 23:00? Or are the night programme's just certain types of club events limited to those over 18? Pip Farquharson: What I meant by night programme was indeed club nights. The Melkweg and Paradiso follow all their gigs with club nights... _______________________ _______________________ Cooper City, FL: My family will be traveling to the Netherlands this October for a family wedding. I was wondering if there were any tips on how to find the best airfare? Does the time we book matter? Airline? Arrival and departure dates? Thanks! Pip Farquharson: Afraid I don't know anything about booking flights outside of the country. But, you'll have a great time at the wedding. Paris is always seen as the ultimate romantic destination but Amsterdam is far more romantic... _______________________ Washington, DC: Dear Pip - My partner and I have long dreamed of moving to Amsterdam (I am a writer and so can live anywhere). We have made many extended stays and love it and the friends we have met. Two questions: - Do you have advice for what is involved in relocating to Amsterdam from a non-EU country (she is Canadian, I am American); - Can you recommend a few books or websites which offer guidance for expats living in Holland? Thank you, Ted Pip Farquharson: Hello Ted Great you're thinking of moving to Amsterdam. It currently has a burgeoning writer's scene with groups like WordsInHere hordsinhere.com/ and is holding the first Amsterdam Literary Festival from May 26-29. I would check Expatica at htpatica.com/ for answers concerning nationality and relocation as I'm British so don't know much about it.. And do check out my site htterwateramsterdam.com/ for more info, and I recommend the Time Out Amsterdam guide and Get Lost! Cool Guide to Amsterdam. Hope you make it! _______________________ Baltimore, MD: What are the dance clubs like in Amsterdam? Pip Farquharson: Dance clubs here are very varied. I would check amsterdamdjs.com/ which has links to the websites of clubs in Amsterdam as well as some information on DJs spinning in the city... _______________________ Tampa, FL: Is there anyway possible to enjoy a comfortable hotel room near central station without spending an obscene amount of money? Pip Farquharson: Hello See my previous posting re the Amstel Botel... It's basic but comfortable. Asides from that just check out the information about individual hotels on online hotel bookings sites. _______________________ St. Pete, FL: We are going to be in Amsterdam with 2 other couples April 23 to 28th. What are the top 3 off the beaten path things you would suggest we do? Pip Farquharson: Hello See early postings re tips off what to do while you're here. What I would suggest seeing which will be on while you're here is the World Press Photo Exhibition. It opens 25 April at the Oude Kerk (Oudekerkplein) This is something I wrote about it: This year marks the 50th anniversary of this prestigious annual exhibition of award-winning photojournalism, which opens in Amsterdam before travelling onto 80 cities worldwide. This year's overall winner is Arko Datta (Reuters, India) with a photo showing a woman mourning a relative killed on the Boxing Day tsunami in Cuddalore in India. As usual, a retrospective of the winnerÕs work will be on show alongside the other award-winning photos (divided into themes). Additionally, there will be a 50 Years Gallery featuring all the winning shots from the past half-a-century. Although the exhibition can often be confronting (there is something intrinsically powerful about a still - as opposed to moving - image) it remains a veritable homage to the photo-journalist who often works in life-threatening conditions to report the news. _______________________ Holbrook, NY: Hello Pip, I'll be arriving in amsterdam on 30 Apr05 for 8 days, This is the third time coming to this great place. I just wondered if you could recommend some local pubs and resturants and maybe some music clubs. We'll be staying in a hotel on Damrak so we're centrally located. Thanks Pip Farquharson: Hello I don't want to be constantly plugging my website but it is a useful resource for bars and restaurants etc! hnderwateramsterdam.com/Also check out htecialbite.com/ which is superb for restaurants htsterdam.info/ is also a very good source of information on the city _______________________ Tucson, AZ: Would you recommend the upcoming Queen's Day celebration as a good time to visit Amsterdam? What are the highlights of the holiday? Pip Farquharson: Only if you like crowds and disorganised chaos! It really is quite an incredible experience and should be experienced at least once. Basically, bars and clubs across the city open up and many have live music or DJs outside, the canals are grid-locked with partygoers on boats. People sell all manner of goods on the streets (it's a tax free day). Can be anything from a t-shirt to a haircut or a kiss. And there's a fair set up on Dam square serving warm donuts ("olieballen"). It's pretty wild and I can guarantee you'll never have seen anything quite like it. There aren't really any highlights as such. I would just wander around the city. If you want to go to a party particularly then just check websites for information nearer the time... Wear orange. _______________________ Pip Farquharson: Hello I'm signing off now before I get RSI! I hope the answers were useful. And have a great time during your stays here! Travel safe, PiP _______________________

Although it's been nearly 300 years since Blackbeard sailed these turquoise waters with the pirate's crimson banner flying from his topmast, red flags still flutter over the sunken treasures of Utila. But these days they signal the exploits of more fun-loving adventurers -- scuba divers exploring the underwater bounty that surrounds this island off the north coast of Honduras. Unlike many Caribbean dive destinations -- including its larger neighbor Roatan--Utila is not an island of fancy resorts or expensive restaurants. There's no beach scene, not a single Jet Ski buzzing across the harbor, and you can count the number of private yachts on one hand. But this 21-square-mile island's spectacular reefs, rustic charm, and low prices are luring travelers -- mostly Europeans -- by the boatload. From the crowded backpacker hostels of Central America to the message boards in cyberspace, the word is out: Utila is one of the cheapest places to dive in the world, and one of the best. "It's the perfect place to learn to dive," says Jeff Van der Hulst, a Dutch dive instructor who teaches on the island. The water is warm, the visibility good, and many interesting dive sites lie only a short boat ride from the harbor. And though global warming has been killing reefs around the world at an alarming rate, Utila's are still, for now, largely pristine. Bizarre corals, exotic sea creatures, and nearby shipwrecks keep divers coming back here year after year. Competition between dive shops--there are 11--keeps prices low. Although the cost of a PADI open--water course can dip to $99, the most reputable dive shops charge $171 for a four--day course -- including insurance and (humble) accommodations. Superior equipment, bigger dive boats, smaller classes, and better instruction account for the difference. Although many divers who come to Utila are already experienced, most of those who step off the ferry have never strapped on a scuba tank in their lives and can barely tell an octopus from a depth gauge. But after a couple of hours of instruction on land, classes shift to the ocean floor, where passing schools of fish seem oblivious to the nervous, bubbling newcomers. Perhaps because diving is a sport that demands an unusual degree of trust -- in yourself, in your diving buddy, and in your equipment -- confidence and camaraderie bloom quickly here. To the syncopated beat of Spanish--language reggae booming from the dive boats, students from a half--dozen countries are soon dancing on deck between dives, and swimming together in water so blue it seems electric. Kicking back, apres dive Later, as the sun sinks behind distant palms, divers gather on the dock of the Tropical Sunset Bar to swap stories and down cold bottles of Honduran beer whose name, Salva Vida, means "lifesaver." And at ten lempiras a bottle (65[cents]), nobody goes thirsty. Friends old and new just savor the evening breeze and watch soaring pelicans dive for fish, becoming mesmerized for long moments that seem impossibly, gloriously perfect. It's a lifestyle that has drawn people to Utila for centuries. Paya Indians, notorious pirates, freed slaves, and British colonists have all, at various times, called this island home. And although Britain signed Utila over to Honduras in 1859, the place still retains an odd Anglo flavor. Longtime residents speak a lilting English that blends Caribbean rhythms with strangely archaic expressions. In fact, they still refer to people from the mainland as "Spaniards," a relic from centuries past, when English privateers hunted Spanish galleons lumbering home to Europe laden with pieces of eight. Despite the quiet presence of a few cybercafes, Utila still has something of a lost--in--time feel, untouched by ATM machines, cell phones, or the modern trappings of convenience. Utila Town, as the community is called, flanks one long street that hugs the harbor. This narrow road, barely wide enough for two cars to pass abreast, is lined with a few small stores, dive shops, restaurants, and old wooden houses -- many with broad porches draped in flowering vines. Island feasts Utila's spirit of simplicity is perhaps best captured in a little restaurant called Mario's -- a dozen tables under a corrugated roof -- that despite its humble appearance serves up a mean barracuda, shark, tuna, wahoo, conch, or calamari -- whatever the fishermen happen to catch that day. And when the power goes out, as it often does, the waiter just lights some candles and keeps on serving. No meal at Mario's tops 75 lempiras ($5), except for the greatest lobster tail ever prepared. Grilled with garlic, olive oil, salt, and black pepper, it's simple and sublime, and only 180 lempiras ($12). RJ's BBQ Grill, at the other end of Main Street, also serves excellent seafood, but is only open on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays. If all you want is a quick snack, stop by the baleada stand facing the bank, where the baleada lady will pat a ball of dough into a corn tortilla and cook it right in front of you, adding cheese, beans, and marinated onions for about five lempiras (35:). A warning, though: Her baleadas are so good it's hard to stop at just one. Another place with character that's off the beaten track but worth the 20--minute boat ride is Susan's, perched on stilts in the shallows of Pigeon Cay, a traditional fishing community just off the western tip of Utila. If you round up a group of four, the boat ride comes out to 100 lempiras ($6.50) each, and Susan's 25--lempira ($1.65) fishburgers -- the specialty of the house -- are great. On Saturday nights, she clears out the tables for dancing. In fact, if you like nightlife, there's action all week on Utila. One of the best places to make the scene is a thatch--roofed bar called Coco Loco's, whose crowded dock doubles as a dance floor, and whose light show -- the glittering night sky itself -- is truly stunning. Diving into bed Hotel rooms on Utila are almost always available, except around Easter and during the town fair in July; most charge in U.S. dollars. A complete list of accommodations on the island -- and elsewhere in Honduras -- is available through the Honduran Institute of Tourism (see box). Competing for your business, many dive shops will include bunkroom accommodations in the cost of their dive packages, but finding a clean bathroom in this category can be hit--or--miss. Generally, it's worth upgrading to the $10--to--$15--per--night range, which will generally get you 24--hour power and water, as well as a private bath with towels. Not all hotels offer hot water, but this being the Tropics, it isn't really necessary. The Margaritaville Beach Hotel (425-3366, e-mail: margaritaville@honduras.com) at the west end of town costs $12 for a spartan double with a fan, private bath, and cold running water. A better value is the two--story Bay View Hotel (425-3114, e-mail: bayviewinternet@hotmail.com). For $14, its sunny doubles with private bath and cold water let you lie in bed and listen to the waves lapping the shore. The mix--and--match linens -- perhaps a Star Wars pillowcase with an NFL bedsheet -- give the place a quirky, unpretentious charm. While there, keep an eye out for the eagle ray that sometimes glides through the boat slip after dark. Another great deal is Rose's Inn (not to be confused with Hotel Rose) on Mamey Lane, a five-minute walk from the harbor. For $15 a night you get a double with fan, private bath with hot water, and access to a kitchen. If you're feeling lazy, you can lie in a hammock on the porch and chat up the expat dive masters who rent rooms there by the month for $150. You can reach the proprietor, Martha Rose, at 425-3283. The nearby Mango Inn (425-3335) on Monkey Tail Road offers doubles with a fan, private bath, and hot water for $25, and all the rooms open onto a long, shady porch (guests who dive with the Utila Dive Center get the same room for $17.50). If you can't live without cable TV and air--conditioning, try a room at the Cross--Creek Hotel (425-3134, www.ccreek.com). Doubles with private bath are $40--reduced to $25 if both guests sign up with the hotel's diving program. Be sure to check out the Cross--Creek dive shack, with its larger--than--life mural of Bob Marley and Che Guevara, one with a doobie and the other with a rifle. A still fancier option is the Utila Lodge (425-3143, e-mail:ulodger@hondutel.hn), built on stilts over the water. Here, doubles with all the comforts run $58 per night. When making reservations, inquire about weeklong dive/hotel packages; dive boats from the Bay Islands College of Diving leave directly from the hotel. Catch it while you can Although Hurricane Mitch left Utila largely unscathed in 1998, the winds of economic change are now starting to buffet the island with even more potentially profound effects. A new airport designed to handle international jet traffic was scheduled for completion at year's end. It will eventually replace the dirt airstrip that now handles daily service via twin--engine puddle-jumpers from the Honduran port city of La Ceiba. Marley Howell, a fifth-generation islander who is a community leader as well as office manager at the Utila Lodge, says the new airport will help attract tourists with more money, spur local development, and generate better employment opportunities for islanders. Utila has also secured foreign aid to revamp its sewer and water system, which is currently inadequate to support the island's 5,000 residents. "We want to see the island progress," says Howell. "Do we want uncontrolled growth? No." But some Utilans worry that's exactly what will happen. "The new airport, when it opens, will completely change the island's culture," says Shelby McNab, unofficial town historian and the director of the Utila Chapter of the Bay Islands Conservation Association. Already, developers are seeking permits for 37 beachfront vacation homes, scouting land for new resorts, and recruiting foreign investors. For the moment, though, a visit to Utila is much the way it has always been -- idyllic. Crabs scuttle across the floor of a restaurant, a man pedals through town with a scarlet macaw riding his handlebars, kids play baseball with a scrap of lumber, and -- just offshore -- darting fish glint amid surreal canyons of coral. Knowing and going Note: To call all numbers in Honduras from the U.S., first dial 011--504. Prices are based on a rate of 15 lempiras to the dollar. Before leaving home, get information about tourism in Honduras at 800/410--9608 or www.letsgohonduras.com. A query on any major travel search engine will generate fares to Honduras on a half--dozen major carriers. A cheap round--trip ticket from Miami starts at about $425, and from Houston at $525. If traveling to Utila from the United States, fly into the northern Honduran city of San Pedro Sula, where daily connecting flights through La Ceiba to Utila are available for $50 each way on Sosa Airlines (668-3223) and Atlantic Airlines (440-2346). The bus/boat combination is much cheaper. Viana (556-9261) offers the best bus service, running between San Pedro Sula and La Ceiba in 21/2 hours for 110 lempiras ($7.50). Then from La Ceiba -- a gritty city with a reputation for crime -- the express ferry MV Galaxy leaves for Utila daily at 9:30 a.m., takes about an hour, and costs 195 lempiras ($13) each way. It departs Utila for La Ceiba at 11:30 a.m. If your schedule compels you to overnight in La Ceiba, try the Gran Hotel Par¡s (443-2391, fax 443-1662, www.lanzadera.com/hotelparis), where a spartan but air--conditioned double with cable TV costs 510 lempiras ($34) and the pool is great. Smaller and with more character is the Posada de Don Giuseppe (tel./fax 44--2812, e-mail: pgiuseppe@laceiba.com), whose doubles with private bath run about 465 lempiras ($31). If you really want to rough it for just 75 lempiras ($5), try the Hotel San Carlos on Avenida San Isidro between Calle 5 and Calle 6 (443--0330). Regarding money on Utila, there is a bank, but no ATM. Generally, you can pay for dive courses and accommodations in dollars, although surcharges apply if paying with credit cards (which are not universally accepted). Plan on paying for meals and the ubiquitous bottled water in lempiras. Dive-shop shopping Shop around before choosing a dive course. Get to know a shop's instructors, ask to see equipment, dive boats, and first aid resources, and don't forget to smell the air in the tanks. Just in case, there's an emergency decompression chamber on Utila, the use of which is covered by insurance costing $3 per day. Recommendable dive shops include Utila Dive Centre (425-3326, www.utiladivecentre.com), Bay Islands College of Diving (425-3378, www.diveutila.com), and Cross--Creek Dive Center (4253134,www.ccreek.com).

For first-time visitors-and even for some old Hungary hands - initial impressions of this handsome, mostly nineteenth-century-vintage capital (pop. 2 million) are usually of rather impressive prosperity. Sitting in an outdoor cafe along the Vaic utca, Budapest's preeminent pedestrian mall, I watch Magyars (Hungarians) saunter past in colorful, well-coiffed droves, window-shopping and cheek-kissing furiously. The busy avenues - which bring to mind Baron Haussman's classic Paris - are lined with testaments to the dozen-year-old capitalist order: gleaming, Madison Avenue-style storefronts crammed with cell phones, pricey antiques, and brand names. But as always, appearances can be deceiving-after all, there's a Gucci in downtown Moscow and Jaguars now tool the boulevards of poverty-stricken Bucharest. Yes, the economy has gone to town since the bad old days of the Warsaw Pact, and growth is at a humming 6 percent. But monthly incomes still hover around $300, and though you can find plenty of costly expense account hotels and restaurants, many prices still reflect the Hungary of yesteryear - similar to those of the Czech Republic and 10 to 15 percent lower than Poland's. Thus Budapest still sits squarely in shoestring travel territory - and probably will for some time, at least until 2004 or 2005 when the European Union brings Hungary into the fold. At the moment, exchange rates (US$1 recently bought 298 Hungarian forints) also strongly favor American visitors. Furthermore, as I delve deeper, I happily discover that prosperity has been no more successful than Lenin or successive armies at squashing Budapest's fiercely distinct heritage and charms. Hungary's capital has long been called "the Paris of the East" because of its cultural offerings, homegrown wines, Seine-like riverfront, and grand avenues. But that label isn't quite right. The distinctive Magyar cuisine, the hot-spring baths, the gypsy melodies-they leave no doubt as to exactly where you are. On a map, the city appears to be carved in half by the Danube. In fact, Buda and Pest were separate cities until they merged in 1873; to this day they each retain distinct personalities. Buda commands views from heights that for centuries served as the seat of monarchs and Austro-Hungarian emperors; there are no more aristos here, but the imperialistic sensibility is still palpable on the mile-long Castle Hill. Pest, the flats east of the Danube, is historically a commercial center; it's now quite cosmopolitan and home to most of the city's residents and businesses. Upon arrival, it's a good idea to purchase a Budapest Card, which for f 3,400 ($11.40) for two days and f 4,000 ($13.40) for three days gets you free trips on public transportation, entry into museums, and discounts on a number of attractions, including the historic baths. It's available at subway stations, tourist information bureaus, and hotels. Buda: Castles, caves, & baths The Buda side of the city rises abruptly out of the plains and looms high over the Danube. As I stroll across the landmark Chain Bridge, gazing up at the hills, I quickly comprehend why the city's royalty set up shop there. Castle Hill calls to mind all those medieval epics involving suits of armor and vats of boiling oil. The ridge is studded with bastions, manors, and the Royal Palace, amazingly reconstructed from rubble after World War II. The Gothic Matyas Church, too, is remarkable, first erected in the mid-thirteenth century and still one of the city's most prominent landmarks despite being nearly completely destroyed several times. Its jagged spires and diamond-patterned roof were among the reasons it took nearly 20 years to rebuild after the Nazis hammered it. Don't neglect to wander over to Fisherman's Bastion, a former marketplace with towers and meandering steps and passages; here both residents and visitors now gather to watch sunsets over the Danube far below. The view through stone-framed windows is truly sublime. Buda holds all the city's geological oddities, too: a network of caves with wonderfully grotesque limestone formations-such as the Palvolgyi Cave (Szepvolgi ot 162) - and 123 hot springs alleged to have medicinal value for conditions from rheumatoid arthritis to heart disease. Whether you buy the therapeutic part is up to you, but a soak in one of the baths is an obligatory part of the Budapest experience, dating back two millennia to the Romans and later the Turks. Unlike in America, the spas are intended for both plebes and plutocrats, and priced accordingly. A full day in the warm waters of the historic Gellert Bath (Gellertater 1, 466-6166), a grand nineteenth-century spa hotel, costs only $7. A 15-minute "refreshment" massage - a unique Budapest experience - adds merely $2.75 to the tab. Admittedly, it's not always the most soothing experience; the masseurs (for men, at least) work in a brightly lit, tiled room and converse loudly in Hungarian, often breaking into uproarious laughter (oy, those Hungarian knock-knock jokes). Facilities also includes various saunas and swimming pools, one of which has a wave machine. Another bath definitely worth visiting is Rudas (Dobrentei tér 9, 375-8373), built in the 1500s, which features a spectacular domed Turkish-style interior with a hole on the top that lets in rays of sunlight; admission's $1.75 to $2. One caveat: while the main pools are available to everyone, the steam bath is open to men only. Pest: Culture - and shopping Pest is Budapest's workaday half, but over the years it has accumulated an impressive array of attractions, including world-class museums, antiques shops, and the monstrous neo-Gothic Parliament building. Catch a performance of Romeo & Juliet or Giselle at the stunning nineteenth-century State Opera House - one of the few landmarks that somehow avoided the Nazi blitzkrieg at the end of World War II. Tickets sell for about f 3,500 ($11.36), though the true forint-watcher can opt for limited-view seats for about $1.30. To connect the dots of Hungary's proximate past, one of my favorite spots is the quirky and poignant Statue Park (227-7446, szoborpark.hu), the final resting place for 42 of the Communist monuments that once dotted the cityscape. From the center of Budapest, take the 7-173 bus to Etele ter, then switch to the yellow Volan bus. Admission is 65[cents]. If you develop a taste for Commie tchotchkes - or just feel like sifting through Budapest's attic - check out the Ecseri Flea Market, where you can find old timepieces and military uniforms bearing the familiar red star. There are also classic hand-cranked Victrolas, furniture, china, and all other imaginable varieties of treasure and junk. It's fun for wandering, but if you buy something, bargain lustily. Open six days a week, it peaks on Saturday mornings, when half of Budapest seems to squeeze into the sprawling sheet metal complex. To get there, take bus 54 (black) from Boraros ter by Petofi Bridge. Admission is free. Buda beds & nests in pest Budapest offers a vast collection of lodgings for both backpackers and business travelers. Penny-saver hotels aren't quite as common as they were a few decades ago, but there are still a decent number of budget digs, particularly on the Buda side of the river. And even budget hotels typically include breakfast buffets with cheeses, cereals, fruits, and vegetables. And keep in mind that prices everywhere drop by about 20 percent during the off-season. If you arrive without reservations-not necessarily a good idea during the May-through-October high season - the 24-hour Welcome Hotel Service (Apaczai Csere J. utca 1, 318-5776) will help you find a place to crash. You can also make online reservations of various sorts at budapest.com, hotels.hu, and BudapestHotels.hu. Finally, the Hungarian tourist office also publishes listings. Travellers' Youth Hostels (340-8585, travellers-hostels.com) operates 11 university and secondary-school dormitories in various downtown locations. Prices range from $9.05 for a dormitory bed to $25.50 for an air-conditioned double with a toilet and shower. Another option is renting a unit at the Victor Apartment House, which you can reserve through the Budapest Hotels Web site. Located downtown at Victor Hugo utca 25-27 near a huge new shopping center, it isn't much to look at - gray and squat, with a small terrace - but you get a kitchen and all the normal accouterments. The rates help you forgive the lack of aesthetics: $33 for a single, $40 for a double ($201/$214 weekly, discounts available). Moving up a notch to hotels, try the 130-room Touring Hotel in Buda (Punkosdfurdo utca 38, 250-3184, reserve@hoteltouring.hunguesthotels.hu), equipped with a restaurant and even tennis courts, and located north of downtown but only a 15-minute subway ride from the hubbub. High-season doubles with shared bath are $39 (they include sinks), and for a couple of dollars more, you can have your own shower. Another Buda bargain is the Hotel Budai (Racz Alad r utca 45-47, tel. and fax: 249-0208), an amiable 23-room establishment perched on a hill with a great view of downtown. Rates are $45 to $56.50, with breakfast. On the Pest side, the Hotel Pedagogus (Benczur utca 35, 342-7970, pedhotel@mail.matav.hu), is located just down the street from the magnificent Heroes' Square, an 1896 monument to Hungary's kings, statesmen, and warriors. The 62 basic rooms with full bath and double beds range from $23 to $36. Just down the street, the Radio Inn Budapest (Benczur utca 19, 322-0237), has 32 rooms, a garden, and a mostly English-speaking staff. Immaculate double rooms with satellite TV go for $54; the price dips to $40.50 off-season. Or try the modern but quirky-looking Hotel Liget (Dozsa Gyorgy ut 106; 269-5300, hotel@liget.hu), where 139 modern, spiffy rooms with baths start at about $63 single and $85.50 double. A notch swankier, the shiny new Hotel Ibis Centrum (Raday utca 6, 215-8585) is just a paprika's throw from the National Museum. It has 126 rooms, three floors for nonsmokers (not a small thing in this tobacco-loving country), and an attractive rose garden. Rates are $66 single, $74.50 double, including breakfast. A bed-and-breakfast in Hungary is called a panzio, but Budapest B&Bs are largely indistinguishable from hotels in terms of both charm and price. The City Panzio Matyas (Marcius 15, 338-4711) is a good choice because of its central location, almost on top of the Danube and just a few steps from the Vaci utca, where luxury hotels cost twice as much. It looks a little beat-up from the outside - a window on the front door is broken - but the building's clean and secure, and the included breakfast excellent. High-season doubles are $75. Buda bites, pest repasts Magyar cuisine is a major attraction in Budapest, and about far more than just the ubiquitous goulash. Don't expect to go home any lighter; this is a country where people eat salami for breakfast. Traditional fare favors game and fish laden with cheeses, creamy sauces, and of course, the beloved paprika. Huge meals won't set you back much, even at some of Budapest's top eateries. Fortuna (Hess Andrasater 4, 355-7177), perched on Castle Hill in the upper reaches of Buda, is famous for its innovative gourmet dinners. Here, the menu includes creamy paprika stews of assorted fish with dumplings ($9.40) or breast of duck stuffed with goose liver, including apple pie for dessert ($10.50). But it's not necessary to spend nearly that much to eat well - though the Pest side harbors many of the cheaper eateries. Hugely popular among locals is a traditional restaurant called Sipos (Obuda Lajos utca 46, 368-6480), where I recently feasted on cream of asparagus soup (97:) and grilled carp with fried beef fat and garlic ($3), awash in a creamy sauce of - what else? - paprika. You'll spend just slightly more ($6 to $7) on fish dishes, served in a kettle and spiked with hot paprika, at Horgasztanya (Fo utca 27, 212-3780), located right near the banks of the Danube. Or try Tabani Kakas (Attila ot 27, 375-7165), which serves a huge menu of traditional fare for less than $10. Pest, meanwhile, is a hotbed for coffeehouses, which have long been popular gathering places for thinkers, writers, and rebels, and thus are a huge part of Budapest culture. A good bet is the Central Kavehaz (Karolyi Mihaly utca 9, 266-4572), a significant intellectual hotbed dating back to 1887. Three leading periodicals were born here before the Soviets shut the place down in 1949. It re-emerged from exile in January 2000, art nouveau touches and menu meticulously restored. You can get the tarragon lamb - a favorite soup of the eminent Hungarian writer Zsigmond Moricz - for a mere $1.43. Or try the paprika potatoes with boiled sausage ($2.25), goose-liver risotto ($4.20), or paprika veal stew with gnocchi and sheep's cheese (ditto). With its muted, mustard-brown walls and gentle purr of conversation, it's the perfect place to try to mentally assemble the shards of the nation's dramatic and splintered history. By the way, the coffee is as strong as Zeus and as black as obsidian, so be prepared for some soaring caffeine highs. Many Hungarians drink it black, though cappuccino has become more common. Though its prices are slightly higher, Gerbeaud (Vorosmarty ter 7, north end of Vaci utca, 429-9000), Budapest's internationally famous bakery, is well worth a visit. The piano on premises was bound for the Titanic, but wasn't completed before the fateful voyage. The Black Forest cherry cake ($1.60) and English apple pie ($1.10) live up to advance billing, though the coffee ($1.30) is disappointing. A popular place for meals and mingling with Magyars is the massive Central Market Hall, off Fovam korot in 1-3 at the south end of Vaci utca. It's a colorful, multitiered farmers-market-type complex rendered a bit touristy by knickknacks and the ubiquitous red packages of paprika - but Hungarians swarm the place too, buying fresh fruit and fish that are squirming around in tanks. The restaurant on the top floor, Fakanal (Wooden Spoon), slings goulash and the like for $2 to $3. If you have a group, Bridge Tours (267-8829) will arrange for a guide to shop with you for traditional ingredients; the kitchen then prepares an enormous all-you-can-eat spread. The $11 price includes soups, wine, and dessert. Bridge Tours also arranges wine-tasting events and cooking courses. Another interesting place to find traditional fare for low prices is Feszek Klub (Kertesz utca 26; 342-6549), an artists' enclave with a tree-dappled courtyard; Hungarian staples cost $7 to $10, including the obligatory jet-fuel espresso with dessert. A day away: The Danube Bend If you have the time, three towns an hour or so north of Budapest make for an alluring escape. Szentendre is an artsy village of stone streets originally settled by Serbs, whose influence is still evident. It's filled with museums, and it's fun to wander the serpentine streets past gardens and up to hilltop churches. The elaborate ceramic works in the Margit Kovacs Museum are impressive. Also worth visiting are the cathedral town of Esztergom-Hungary's religious capital and home to a gargantuan basilica whose dome is visible miles away - and Visegrad, where you'll find the ruins of a citadel and ramparts that date back to the thirteenth century. The best bet for a meal in Szentendre is Aranysarkany (Alkotmany utca, 1/a; 26-301-479), a family restaurant specializing in traditional home cooking. The creamy spinach soup ($1.95) and stuffed cabbage with meatballs ($3.60) are highlights; the adventurous should try the smoked goose liver with rose petal jam ($4.20). Most people make the Danube Bend a day trip from Budapest because the cost of a bed rises outside the city. But if you want to stay over, a good bet's the Bukkos Hotel in Szentendre (Bukkos-part 16, 26-312-021), a tiny 16-room hotel perched on the banks of a stream. Rates start at $32. All three towns are easy to reach from Budapest, either by train or boat. To Szentendre, take the HEV train from Batthyany ter ($2.70). Boats leave from the Vigado ter pier ($3.15 to Szentendre, $3.50 to Visegrad, and $3.70 to Esztergom, round-trip, 318-1223; by bus, the trip costs $2.70 from the Arpad hid terminal.) Buda moves Malev (800/223-6884 or 212/757-6446, hungarianairlines.com), the Hungarian airline, is the only carrier that flies directly from the United States to Budapest. Partnering with Delta, Malév offers flights six times a week from New York and three times a week from Toronto; coach fares from the former range from $358 to $997 round-trip, depending on the season. From Toronto, round-trip fares start at $975 to $1,075. Flying through another European city and then on to Budapest is another possible money-saving option. And you can easily reach Budapest from Vienna in three-and-a-half hours by train. If you're not a big do-it-yourselfer, you may opt for one of the tour packagers that put together Hungarian excursions. Considering that airfare can rise to more than $900 in high season, Malev's packages are fairly reasonable: five-nighters including air, hotel, breakfast, dinner at a legendary Budapest restaurant, admission to a show, and some sightseeing, for as little as $689 in low season. Of the packagers putting together trips to Budapest - most focusing on music, food, or baths - the most thorough are Tumlare Travel (800/223-4664, egil@tumlare.com) and Tradesco Tours (800/448-4321, tradescotours.com), both of which keep offices in Budapest and the U.S. Tumlare custom-designs tours while Tradesco offers flexibility as well; the latter agency will do as little as book a two-night hotel stay for $53 per person in low season. For a three-night stay at the Gellert, including extras like theater tickets and dinner, prices begin at $309 per person, not including air. Paul Laifer Tours (800/346-6314) offers air from New York and six nights at the Hotel Hungaria with breakfast for $719. Buda info To get oriented before you go, consult the Hungarian National Tourist Office in New York City (212/355-0240, gotohungary.com); it can provide English-language brochures on anything from baths to caves. Another source of information is Tourinform (011-36-60/55-00-44, hungarytourism.hu). For all Hungarian phone numbers, from the U.S. first dial 011-36. To call Budapest, add the city code 1.

What you'll find in this story: tips for finding tickets to a Broadway show, New York entertainment, secrets for securing Broadway tickets, tips for seeing a Broadway play, where to find tickets Theater prices have gone sky-high--$100 for a musical is now the norm. But this is New York, and there's nothing New Yorkers hate more than paying retail. The truth is, Broadway has become a lot like the airline industry: If you know what you're doing, you can spend a fraction of what the person next to you did. Before you leave Check out Theatermania.com and Playbill.com, the most reliable sites for discounted tickets and up-to-date theater news. Both require you to register, but doing so is free. Circumstances vary from show to show, but tickets can usually be bought from a week to three months in advance for up to 50 percent off (plus fees from the ticket agency, such as Ticketmaster or Telecharge). Don't expect the hottest shows to be discounted, but plenty of big-name productions, including The Phantom of the Opera, The Glass Menagerie, and The Producers, were available at less-than-full price at press time. Broadwaybox.com and The Frugal TheaterGoer's Guide to Discount Tickets (home.nyc.rr.com/frugaltheatergoe ) are useful for finding discounts when others fail to offer the show of your choice. The day of the performance Locals and tourists score discounts of 25 to 50 percent by lining up for same-day tickets at the two TKTS kiosks in Manhattan (tdf.org): in Times Square at 47th Street and Broadway, and in the Financial District at the corner of Front and John Streets. The big downside is that you typically must wait more than an hour (sometimes less if you want to see a play; lines are now divided into musical and nonmusical). The most popular shows are unlikely to be available, and you may not get your first choice. Most days, people start queuing up several hours before TKTS opens. Tickets may be released several times a day, so it's still possible to grab great seats by stopping by at 6 or 7 p.m., when lines are shortest. The Times Square location is open from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. on weekdays, and starting at 10 a.m. on Saturdays and Wednesdays, and 11 a.m. on Sundays (hours are slightly different downtown). They take only cash and traveler's checks. Currently, two of the toughest tickets on Broadway--that rarely, if ever, appear on TKTS or discount websites--are Avenue Q (the hilarious adult puppet show that won the Tony for Best Musical in 2004) and Wicked (a musical about the Wicked Witch of the West). Most people book far in advance, but tickets for both open up at the last minute for $25 or less. Show up at the theater two and a half hours before the performance (5:30 p.m. for an 8 p.m. curtain) and sign up for the lottery. (Bring a photo ID.) Rent and Hairspray have similar systems. Several shows, including Little Women and Mamma Mia!, sell same-day rush tickets at substantially discounted prices for students. Check tdf.org or telecharge.com for each show's policy. 30 minutes before curtain If you arrive at a theater's box office and the show is sold out, don't give up. Many big hits, including Spamalot, Movin' Out, The Lion King, and Billy Crystal's 700 Sundays, offer standing-room only (SRO) tickets for about $25, but not until all regular tickets have been purchased. To find out if a specific show releases SRO tickets, go to telecharge.com, find the show, and click on "Getting Tickets." Standing for two hours isn't ideal, but most theaters at least give you a wall to lean against. Beyond Broadway The terms Broadway, Off-Broadway, and Off-Off-Broadway have little to do with theater locations and more with theater size, production values, and ticket price. Off-Broadway shows usually top off at $60. Off-Off-Broadway shows rarely exceed $25. There's plenty worth seeing Off-Broadway. As a matter of fact, several successful Off-Broadway shows have switched over to Broadway, including the hit play Doubt. Check NYC newspapers and magazines for Off-Broadway listings; New York magazine and The Village Voice are particularly good sources. Theater fans may want to visit New York in August or September, when performances at popular festivals are $15. The New York International Fringe Festival (fringenyc.org) runs from August 12 to 28 this year and features plays, musicals, dance, and multimedia performances. The New York Musical Theatre Festival (nymf.org), from September 12 to October 2, schedules more than 30 original shows. Though the festivals' offerings are hit-or-miss, several productions have gone on to successful runs off and on Broadway. Tickets for Altar Boyz were just $15 at last year's NYMF, and it's now playing Off-Broadway for $60. That's showbiz, kids!