One of my absolute favorite places on earth is Volcanoes National Park and if you like to hike, I highly recommend spending quality time in Volcano Village outside the park. I wish I was among the sulphur and tree ferns, craters and steam vents right now! The weather can be a bit mecurial—it rains and mists a lot up here—but that only adds to the charm. Artists studios, tea houses, the Volcano Winery, a phenomenal farmers' market where you're sure to make friends and the tight knit community make this a wonderful retreat. Don't miss the secret lava tube tour led by Park rangers (weds only) and the nighttime lecture series. There are many lovely vacation rentals here; try alternative-hawaii.com to see a selection.

If you're looking for sun all day, try a Kona condo—there are some terrific deals to be had. These websites should get you what you're looking for: konacondo.com, konahawaii.com, konahawaiirentals.com, hawaii-kona.com, and konarentals.com.

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Minnetonka, Minn.: We are getting married on Oahu the third week of June 2009. We are then planning on traveling to the Big Island and possibly Kauai, if time permits. How much time would you suggest we plan on to see the Big Island and its sites without being too rushed? Also, which side of the island would you suggest we fly in to, Hilo or Kona? It looks like the nicer hotels and resorts are on the Kona side. Is that correct—are the sites better on one side or the other? What would you suggest as the "can't miss" sites or unknown sites? Any suggestions you can share with us would be great. —Curt

Conner Gorry: Congratulations, Curt and significant other! I always say there's only one place for a honeymoon: the Big Island. OK, so Im biased. But really, I would choose either the Big Island or Kauai—trying to squeeze in both will shortchange both. I've spent months on the Big Island and still haven't seen all the sites, so, that's a loaded question. I think a week as a minimum is best. And everything depends on what you want to do. Kona side is for beaches, diving, resorts and unlimited sun. Hilo side is for Hawaiian culture, dense forests run through with waterfalls gushing from the cliffs, black sand beaches, easy access to Volcanoes National Park, plus the unknown sites you mention (and that you'll have to find for yourself, otherwise they wouldn't be unknown)! The overwhelming majority of visitors fly into Kona, which is slightly more economical than flying into Hilo. You can fly into one, rent a car and fly out of another for a $50 drop-off fee which works for some people. Hilo side has some phenomenally romantic places to stay with views that will stay in your memory "until death do you part." try the Hamakua Coast area or Volcano Village.

Can't miss sites (in no particular order): Waipi'o Valley; Mauna Kea/stargazing at night; Volcanoes National Park; lava flowing into the sea in Puna (see response to South Lake Tahoe for map link); night dive or snorkel with manta rays; Place of Refuge; Captain Cook Monument (see response to Barb about snorkeling there); Makalawena Beach; Kiholo Bay; Hawi.

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Phoenix, Ariz.: Is it OK to drive the Saddle Road from coast to coast? I've read conflicting reports on the subject. This question is coming from someone who on Maui drove all the way around the end after Hana to get back to Wailea. Thanks. —Kurt

Conner Gorry: Oh, the much maligned Saddle Road! So much has been made of this US army-built road (rental car companies used to prohibit traversing the Saddle; most now allow it), but you should have no problem crossing in a regular rental car. Things to watch out for however: gas up both you and your car before you go since there's no gas/food fill-up possible en route. They're fixing the road, so obey all signs and go slow through construction zones. Around the 45 mile marker heading towards Waimea, the road turns rutted and uneven, with big potholes the size of tank treads. That's because they are: you are now in the Pohakuloa Training Area (PTA), the largest military training area in the state. This is where US Stryker brigades are trained for Iraq. Obey all signs in this area and no pictures please!

En route, you must stop at the Onizuka Visitors Center several miles up from Saddle Rd on Mauna Kea—best time is after dark for the free, nightly stargazing through powerful telescopes. It takes about an hour to get here from Hilo, 2 from Kailua-Kona. Note that you can't drive "coast to coast" on the Saddle Rd, but will have to connect to 250 or 190 outside Waimea to continue to Kohala and the Kona Coast.

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Sherwood, Ore.: We are going to the big island in March. Where are the best places to snorkel? When I visited Hawaii in the mid-seventies, we were able to get close to the lava flowing into the ocean. Where is the best place to see the lava flow? Where do the locals golf?

Thank you,
Daron

Conner Gorry: Hi there. For snorkeling, see response to Barb. Lucky for you, the lava is currently flowing into the ocean near the Royal Gardens subdivision in Puna. But that can change! For the current map and conditions, see: lavainfo.us. Locals love to golf at the "muni," the municipal course in Hilo and the Volcano Golf and Country Club, where Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa loom over the greens.

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Minnetonka, Minn.: We're planning a trip to the Big Island in June 2009, staying approximately 6 days. We would rent a car. In order to make the most of our vacation, is it better to stay in one hotel/resort and make it our home base to see all there is to see on the island or would it be better to book a few different hotels on different sides of the island to get it all in? Is 6 days going to be enough?

Conner Gorry: Good question—and one of the most important to resolve before a trip to the BIG island. See my answer to Colorado Springs. Is 6 days enough? In my opinion, no, but it's better than 5 or fewer!

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San Bernardino, Calif.: We will be traveling to the Big Island for a week in early November, and staying at a B&B in south Kona. Last year, we stayed on the Hilo and Puna sides and visited Kilauea and the other sights in those areas. We are 41 and 46 years old and aren't into too much hiking or other adventure activities. What suggestions do you have for activities and sights to see? —Blair

Conner Gorry: You guys have the Big Island bug, eh? Two times in 2 years—this is what this place can do to you. You are going during festival high season, so check out if the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival and/or the Big Island Festival jibe with your schedule. Must see sites include the Place of Refuge and Kealakekua Bay—even if you don't want to kayak to the latter to snorkel, consider taking a tour, either by inflatable Zodiac raft or catamaran. You don't want to miss the underwater wonderland here. Between the Place of Refuge and Kealakekua Bay, be sure to take the scenic backroad drive along Painted Church Rd to see what you can discover, visiting St Benedict's Painted Church along the way. This is definitely the best view from a church (both inside and out!) that we've ever had. Don't miss the cemetery while here with its lei-covered statuary. Upland from Kailua-Kona is the laid back town of Holuloa where art galleries and coffee plantation tours will give you a taste of local life. Some of the island's finest souveneirs are tucked away up here, at the Ipu Hale Gallery, Dovetail and Kimura Lauhala Shop. Be prepared to spend!

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Minneapolis, Minn.: My fiance and I are planning to honeymoon on the Big Island. Are there any must-see's or -do's not to miss?

Conner Gorry: Congratulations! See answers to Curt, another soon-to-be-wed Hawaiian honeymooner

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Long Beach, Calif.: We want to plan a trip to Hawaii. My son wants a place where there is good surfing nearby and my daughter-in-law, my husband, and I want to be near the beach, golf course and shopping. Where is the best place to go?

Conner Gorry: Good question and let the debate begin about what constitutes good surfing! Some people will tell you the Big Island doesn't have any good surfing, but they're just being overprotective of their breaks. Pine Trees, at Keahole Point, is pretty much recognized as the island's best surfing—and tourists will have to be patient and friendly to get locals to share the waves here. For the rest of the family, golf, shopping and beaches galore can be found at the nearby South Kohala resorts. Although damaged by the earthquake in 2006, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel is restored, retrofitted and ready for guests. There's great golf here, plus two of the nicest golden sand beaches on the island at Kauna'oa Bay. Stay here and you can hit the links at the nearby Hapuna Price Hotel Golf Course as well. For something different, you can play the 18-hole course at the Volcano Golf & Country Club, with snowcapped Mauna Kea in the background. For an unusual 19th hole, hit the Volcano Winery just up the road for wine tasting.

The Kings Shops in the Waikoloa sprawl on the South Kohala Coast collects the island's most upscale shopping in one place: head here for Burberry, Louis Vuitton and the like.

By the way, when you say Hawaii, you mean the Big Island, right?

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San Antonio, Tex.: My wife and I are spending the week of October 24 on Hawaii. We never encountered "vog" on a trip in March a couple of years ago, but would like to know what time of year it becomes a nuisance, and how do seniors or asthma-prone folks cope? We also wandered into a fairly ritzy resort while there, and received a chilly reception. If all Hawaii beaches are in the public domain, open to all, just what area do these elitist properties control? —Nick

Conner Gorry: Aloha. The vog can be a burden these days thanks to the volcanic action at Kilauea—and if you're asthma-prone (good punctuation, Texas!), watch out! You should check out the national park's air quality site and conditions on the volcano in general before going and adjust your activities depending on air quality and your comfort/fitness level. see the reponse to South Lake Tahoe for the sites.

To your second question—good one! Yes, all coast in the state of Hawaii is open to the public. Technically. Some resorts (eg Mauna Kea Beach Resort; the Four Seasons) allot a certain number of parking spaces at a time (NOT per day so if you wait for someone to come out, you can go in) to comply with the spirit of the law. Other resorts snub their nose at the law and non-guests, unfortunately. Insist politely and they'll let you by.

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Petaluma, Calif.: Which is better to visit Hilo or Kona?

Conner Gorry: It all depends. Who are you? What do you like to do? Is pampering and soft sand in your vacation scheme or do you want to get muddy and see waterfall-cloaked valleys like only exist in movies? See response to Curt, the newlywed from Minnetonka for my take on the age-old Kona vs. Hilo side debate.

[My heart's in Hilo! Just over 30 minutes from Volcanoes National Park!]

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Lexington, Ky.: I am a single traveler and I will be in Hawaii—the Big Island—from Dec. 6-10. I am looking for activities. Any additional information would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Sid

Conner Gorry: Hey Sid. I think you've thrown me the hardest question so far! What do you like to do? What's your budget? Is your primary goal to meet other people or is that precisely why your traveling alone—to get away from them? How old are you? Are you an adventure type or resort type or both? All of this plays into activites that might be fun for you. See my answer to Curt for must-see sites and go right to your favorite bookstore and buy a guidebook (some guidebook sites even let you download just the chapters you're interested in, which might make sense for a quick trip like yours). There's so much to do here, you won't lack for activities, I promise you!

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San Rafael, Calif.: When will the Super-Ferry be arriving on the Big Island? And when will it reach both Kona and Hilo—or will it?

Conner Gorry: Hot question, San Rafael! For those who don't know, the Super Ferry is an interisland car ferry which has met strong resistance by environmental and other groups, while industry, tourism and government have largely rallied for it. Only after going to court and an intervention by Governor Linda Lingle did the controversial ship ever leave port. It now travels only 4x week between Oahu and Maui, but Kauai and the Big Island have stopped the Ferry for now. Knowing Big Islanders, they'll circle the wagons, dig in their heels and all the other tough metaphors to make sure this boat never docks on their island.

For the latest, see: hawaiiinterislandsuperferry.com

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Raleigh, N.C.: Hi, Conner. I'd love to know what your top 3-5 hikes are on the Big Island.

Thanks!
Sheila

Conner Gorry: Another traveler after my own heart! I've done a lot of hiking on the Big Island, Sheila, and from one hiker to another, we know it all depends on what you're after. The most spectacular scenery and lovliest camp site, right on a golden sand beach can be had on the Halape-Keauhou-Ka'aha 2-3 day loop in the National Park. Another killer multi-day trek is to Waimanu Valley beyond Waipio. Both are difficult (for different reasons) and you'll have to be self-sufficient—food, water purficiation, stove, tent, etc.

For day hikes, my favorite is the Kohala Forest REserve trail to the top of Waipio Valley; also known as the White Rd trail accessed in Waimea. The 45-minute straight downhill hike into Waipio from the end of the road on the east side of the island is not a nice hike at all, but deposits you in mysterious Waipio Valley and is worth it. In the park, the 1/2 day hike across Kilauea Iki crater is wonderful for the tree fern forest contrasting with old lava flows and native ohia trees. If you're up for it, you can summit Mauna Loa via the observatory trail, but that's for the real badass hikers out there! Have fun.

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Bellingham, Wash.: I would like to go to Kauai, Maui and the Big Island in October 2009. What island what it be best to fly into first and go to second and third? Also, is that ferry a good way to go? It looks a lot less expensive and you can keep your same rental car.

Thanks,
Sue

Conner Gorry: Hey, Sue. The ferry only travels between Oahu and Maui so that is pretty much out for you. See the response to San Rafael above for more.

What you're proposing involves a lot of air travel unfortunately, since all flights but one between Kailua-Kona and Maui stop in Honolulu first. If you can get on that flight, I'd start in Maui or the Big Island, going to Kauai last.

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Conner Gorry: That's it from here. Mahalo (thanks) everyone for getting chatty about the Big Island today. If you are looking for even more details and insider knowledge, check out my Lonely Planet guide to the Big Island, co-written with Luci Yamamoto.