Botswana Safaris

For safari-goers, Botswana is synonymous with pricey and exclusive. This enlightened southern African country has pursued a wise policy of high-end, low-impact tourism that has become an ecotourism model for developing nations, but unfortunately is making most Botswana safaris booked in the U.S. cost a heavy $200 to $2,000 a day (and that's not including airfare). We've managed to ferret out a good number of low-cost options that allow you to rent your own vehicle for as little as $23 a day and stay in inexpensive lodges that offer their own tours and mini-safaris. Camp in fancy tents, slumber in traditional round African houses called rondavels, or even bask in your own desert chalet for as little as $4 for camping and $36 for a chalet that sleeps four; throw in a river cruise for $15 or a rhino walk for $18 per person.

With its lack of mass tourism, Botswana's spacious 221,623 square miles (slightly less than Texas) are a special treat for wildlife enthusiasts. There are more wild animals and fewer spectators, especially compared to more beaten-path safari destinations like Kenya and South Africa. The government heavily discourages poaching and hunting, and has set aside a whopping 17 percent of the entire country as national parkland (and that doesn't count the numerous private reserves). Botswanans receive education about preserving their environment and are locally placed in charge of its well-being. Botswana's dry, limitless plains stretch far and wide, with a distinct scent of untamed wilderness and primordial earth in the air.

Wealthy, stable Botswana

Botswana has been nothing less than an African miracle for over 30 years. Shortly after its independence in 1966 (and to the vexation of former colonial ruler Britain), some of the world's largest diamond deposits were discovered here. Its population of 1.6 million is tiny in African terms, and its foreign reserves total $7 billion, the world's highest per capita (its GDP is Africa's second highest per capita). It is easily one of Africa's most politically stable nations. Botswana does have the highest HIV infection rate in the world (36 percent), but this is because, unlike in much of Africa, testing is encouraged and common. The government has also boldly decided to directly foot the bill for pricey HIV drugs kept artificially expensive by multinational pharmaceutical companies-which even its neighbor South Africa hasn't done. With widely available health care, lack of tribal and racial conflicts, a forward-thinking government, not to mention pure riches, Botswana challenges common perceptions about African nations.

All located in northern and eastern Botswana, the following are our top choices for game parks and the best budget accommodations nearby. National park entrance fees are not cheap at about $20 per day but worth every penny. Private game parks include the park fees in their tour prices. Camping on your own in the national parks listed here costs $5 per person per day and must be booked prior to arrival since reservations fill up early (for more info on how to do this, go to gov.bw/tourism/index_f.html). But why rough it when you can sleep comfortably for a few more bucks at lodges? We'll show you how, starting with the least expensive option:

The Okavango Delta

Go wild at the 1,881-square-mile Moremi Wildlife Reserve, located on one of Earth's great natural wonders, a 9,000-square-mile inland river delta (the world's largest), where the Okavango River seeps into the Kalahari's roasting sands. Over 300 bird species teem in the delta's massive maze of inlets and islands, not to mention unwieldy hippos, lying-in-wait crocodiles, elephants passing through, and lily pads that appear to stretch on forever. The traditional water safari here is taken via a dugout canoe called a mokoro. (Note: Try to avoid the summer wet season -- more water than you've bargained for.)

Lay your head at the Audi Camp, seven-and-a-half miles north of the town of Maun, the backpackers' hub for the area. Dedicated to budget travelers and working in conjunction with locals, Audi Camp's prices are nothing short of eye-popping for Botswana: $15 per person for a pre-erected, double tent with beds, along with full dinners for $6. Each tent has lights, its own fireplace, and cooking area. Depending on how much you want to rough it, you can pitch your own tent for only $4 per person. Outdoor bathrooms and showers are communal, and there's croc-free dipping in the swimming pool as well. Audi also has some of the lowest prices for one-day or longer mokoro trips with local guides, at $72 per person.

If you need a ride to far-off Windhoek in Namibia, a weekly shuttle costs $61. Phone 011-267/686-0599 or surf to audicamp.bizland.com.

Kalahari Desert

The Khama Rhino Sanctuary is a special 10,600-acre reserve (15 miles north of the historic town of Serowe), established in 1993 to rescue the vanishing white rhino. From an initial four, the rhino population has swelled to 18, and future plans call for introduction of the nearly extinct black rhino to the sanctuary as well. Seventeen miles of electric fence protects the reserve, and the sanctuary is run by a community trust involving locals from the area. The entrance fee with vehicle is only $5, and the sanctuary is dependent on contributions from tourists.

A short drive from the Khama sanctuary's main entrance, the immaculate Mokongwa Camp offers an interesting variation on the African rondavel hut: five thatched-roof chalets that sleep up to four people in four three-quarter beds and have baths en suite for only $36 to $45 per unit. Or you can opt for a two-story, rustic, A-frame chalet at Boma camp, which is a little roomier, comes with private bath, and sleeps up to six for $64 a night, depending on which particular one you choose. Camping underneath large mokongwa trees is $4.50 a night (in addition to a $9 site fee), including outdoor cooking facilities. The camp is surrounded by stunning arid vistas, and there's a provisions shop and crafts store. Fun and educational guided Jeep tours cost only $37 for up to four people, and night tours seeking out red-eyed nocturnal critters are $55 for one to four people. Simple nature walks are a mere $7 a person, and rhino walks are $18. Info: 011-267/463-0713, or log on to the informational Internet site for the sanctuary at khamarhinosanctuary.org.