Volunteer Vacations

June 4, 2005
At locations ranging from wilderness lands in the U.S. to collective farms in Europe, the donation of your labors can result in a free or almost-free stay

Some of us devote our vacations to frantic aerobics--jogging, jumping, straining, pulling, and clamping on Sony Walkmen to ease the crushing boredom of the aimless sport.Other, more enlightened sorts gain the very same aerobic benefits--and personal fulfillment of the highest order--by engaging in voluntary physical labor at a socially useful project, in mountains and deserts, forests and farms. Though most such "workcamp" activity is designed for the vacations of young people, a number of other major programs are intended for adults of all ages, or--in some instances--for adults up to the age of 40.

Below is a long list with various kinds of volunteer organizations and descriptions of programs around the globe, and new opportunities are constantly popping up. For even more ideas on how to make the world a better place, try contacting Interaction, a coalition of more than 165 nonprofit organizations working for international volunteerism, 1717 Massachusetts Ave. N.W., Suite 701, Washington, D.C. 20036 (phone 202/667-8227; Web site: www.interaction.org), or the International Volunteer Programs Association (P.O. Box 18, Presque Isle, MI, 49777, phone: 919/595-3667, e-mail international-ivpa@volunteerinternational.org, Web site: volunteerinternational.org).

Building blocks (building and restoration projects)

Based in Americus, Georgia, Habitat for Humanity International was created in 1976 to work for the elimination of poverty housing (namely, shacks) from the U.S. and the world. Since then, Habitat has built more than 100,000 houses in over 90 countries. Habitat's "Global Village" program takes teams of volunteers to host communities where they build affordable housing with local affiliates. The schedule for the summer of 2002 lists such destinations as Botswana, Ghana, New Zealand, Guatemala, Guyana, Poland, and Portugal, as well as a few American locales.

Habitat's founder, a fierce Christian crusader named Millard Fuller, enlisted the assistance of Jimmy Carter in the period immediately following Carter's defeat for reelection. At Fuller's urging, the Carters traveled by bus to Manhattan, lived in a Spartan, church-operated hostel, and worked each day for a week as carpenters in the rehabilitation of a 19-unit slum tenement in New York's poverty-ridden Lower East Side. The worldwide publicity from that volunteer effort made Habitat into a powerful organization that has built homes in scores of countries worldwide.

Jimmy and Rosalynn Carter continue to travel periodically to workcamps at these locations.

Though others may recoil from the suggestion that arduous, physical labor on a construction site can be a "vacation" activity, hundreds of Habitat volunteers disagree. To cast their lot with the poor is, for them, many times more refreshing than lazing at a tropical resort. If they have one to three weeks off, they travel to work, paying for their own transportation and food, and often receiving accommodations--rather basic--at the site. No prior construction experience is required.

Similar opportunities are available overseas--at many of Habitat's 90 international affiliates--under the "Global Village" program. For one or two weeks, volunteers build housing in those countries under conditions similar to those of the domestic program: they pay for their own transportation there, and for food, although it is sometimes also necessary to pay the cost of simple accommodations as well. Mainly they work alongside the Third World people who will eventually occupy the houses under construction.

To cover room and board, travel insurance, a donation toward the construction costs, volunteers can expect to pay $1,300-$2,200 in Europe, $1,300-$1,700 in Africa, $1,000-$1,800 in Asia, South America, and Central America or the Caribbean. Trips vary in length, but most fall within the one or two week category. An information request form, as well as additional details, is availFUable on the Habitat Global Village Web site (habitat.org/gv). For more information, write Global Village, Habitat for Humanity International, 121 Habitat St., Americus, GA 31709, or call 800/HABITAT ext. 2549.

A stint as a stone mason

La Sabranenque is the strange but melodious source of this next volunteer vacation; it sends you to labor in spring, summer, and fall months in what many consider to be the most attractive areas in all of Europe: southern France and northern Italy. Non-profit, and international, its goal is to restore a host of decaying, crumbled medieval villages at hillside locations throughout the historic area. It did so first in the early 1970s, with spectacular success, in the village of St-Victor-la-Coste, France, returning to their original form the 14th- and 15th- century stone farm buildings, chapels, and other community structures that had become heaps of rubble in the ensuing centuries. So favorable was the reaction of historians (and the French government), and so improved was the life of the village, that several other French and Italian villages immediately invited the group to attempt similar reconstructions of their own medieval ruins. Today, a half-dozen such projects are pursued each summer, all utilizing international volunteers to set the stones and trowel the mortar for fences and walls.

Because the ancient structures of a European rural village are rarely more than two stories high, the work requires no special construction or engineering skills; stone-laying is quickly taught at the start of each one-week, two-week or three-week session. Charges to the volunteers for ten days to two weeks of housing, full board, and all activities are between $410 and $550 in France and between $350 to $485 in Italy. The three-week program (10 days in France and 10 days in Italy; round-trip transportation between the sites is included) runs $1,290. These trips are available March to October. Sabranenque has also introduced one-week programs in Provence during March, April, May, and October that combine volunteering with technical training ($390) or more extensive touring ($410). For more detailed information, contact La Sabranenque Restoration Projects (phone 716/836-8698 or e-mail info@sabranenque.com). Or view the Web site at sabranenque.com/.

Another group that uses volunteer manpower to construct buildings for the needy is Amizade, a six-year-old nonprofit that joins forces with existing community-based organizations to work on a series of international projects. The site of its earliest undertaking, Santarém, Brazil, continues to be the focus of some of its work, but Amizade has is also involved in other sites, notably in Cochabamba (Bolivia) and in an Aboriginal community in Queensland, Australia. For the summer of 2002, programs were scheduled to build classrooms and renovate a health clinic in Brazil, add rooms to an orphanage in Bolivia, construct a community center in Australia, and do general cleanup and restoration work at a remote dude ranch in Montana. Amizade volunteers are always joined by an equal or greater number of locals when they work on service projects, a ratio which contributes to interaction between the two groups. Also, Amizade emphasizes making each trip a cultural and educational experience, so a number of recreational activities are available in each location and experts provide language assistance and organize discussions.

Prices, duration, and accommodations vary between projects. Two-week programs in Satarem, Brazil start at a cost of $1,350. That fee covers room, board, a range of activities, and project materials; volunteers are expected to provide their own travel arrangements. Helping out in the U.S. is often a cheaper option. Renovating the first dude ranch in Montana for a week costs $530 a week. No special skills are necessary for any of Amizade's programs; local masons quickly teach volunteers all they need to know. Amizade will also customize volunteer trips for groups of between six and 60 people for a specified length of time-anywhere between one week and three months. Contact Amizade, Ltd., P.O. Box 110107, Pittsburgh, PA 15232 (phone 888/973-4443, e-mail volunteer@amizade.org, Web site: amizade.org/).

Excavation, archaeology, academia: Two hundred holiday digs

All over the world, but at home as well, archeological excavations use volunteer labor by adults with no previous experience in the art. In many cases the projects pick up all expenses of your stay (other than transportation to the site); in some instances they also pay you a small salary; in most, they charge a fairly nominal fee for your Spartan room and board.

And though the work is often limited to the painfully slow removal of earth from fragile fossils--with a toothbrush, no less, delicately, as you crouch over a slit trench in the baking summer sun--it leaves you full of fatigue, drenched with sweat, and pounds lighter, at the end of each day's stint. Who needs the Golden Door?

Minimum stays range from three days to the entire summer. Examples (some from past programs): In Arizona, California, and Oregon, in the warm-weather months, a government-sponsored archeological survey has used summer-long volunteers to "Identify and record prehistoric and historic sites ... in rough terrain....Volunteers received partial insurance coverage, on-the-job transportation, training, room, and board." Opportunities abroad also change every year, but here are some examples of trips scheduled in the past: At the east Karnak site of Luxor, Egypt, volunteers for six weeks unearthing building blocks used for the sun temples of the Pharaoh Akhenaten; "lodging and meals on site are provided without charge, except on Fridays (the day off)." On the Isle of Man, volunteers throughout the summer paid $120 a week for the expense of participating for as little or long as they like in excavating Neolithic and Bronze Age sites. Near the Black Sea Coast, Russia, two-week volunteers excavated and restored prehistoric monuments, and paid $200 a week for room and board.

The chief source of information is the 300-entry Archeological Fieldwork Opportunities Bulletin, listing more than 200 domestic and foreign "digs," issued each January by the Archeological Institute of America (AIA). (Some listings, you should be warned, are of "field schools" rather than "fieldwork," and involve substantial tuition charges.) To order a copy, contact The David Brown Book Company (P.O. Box 511, Oakville CT 06779, Phone 800/791-9354) or visit www.oxbowbooks.com. Non-members pay $16.95; members of the AIA pay $12.95. Contact the AIA at Boston University, 656 Beacon Street, Boston, MA 02215-2006, (Phone 617/353-6550) or log onto archaeological.org.

Archaeological projects closer to homeTravelers need not travel to exotic lands (and pay the hefty prices to get there) to join in on an archaeological project. Passport in Time (PIT), an archeological, preservation, and environmental program run by the USDA Forest Service, offers dozens of volunteer projects throughout the U.S. each year (usually from June to November). Past programs included exploring and excavating old mining sites in Idaho, researching and documenting the history of a freed slave African American community in Illinois, preserving a historically significant barn in Montana, and excavating Native American artifacts in New Mexico. A positive aspect to PIT: there is no fee to join in and lend a helping hand. Volunteers pay for their own transportation, lodging, and food, however. The deadline for applying for a summer PIT project is usually April 15. Another nice touch: many programs accept children in their pre-teens as volunteers. Note that for some projects, volunteers must be able to commit to the duration of the program to be accepted (and they sometimes last a few weeks). To find out more, visit the Passport in Time Web site (passportintime.com/), call 520/722-2716 or 800/281-9176, e-mail pit@sricrm.com, or write to Passport in Time Clearinghouse, P.O. Box 31315, Tucson, AZ 85751-1315.

Unearthing ancient lands

If the idea of traveling to Israel or Turkey to unearth ancient civilizations sounds intriguing, you may want to take a look at the most recent issue of the Biblical Archaeology Review. The Review contains a complete annual listing of Israeli archeological digs that make heavy use of volunteers of all ages from around the world, and are often sponsored by institutions and universities worldwide. In exchange for their work, volunteers receive inexpensive room and board (from $30/day up) for accommodations, meals, and occasional extras, such field trips and lectures. Conditions for each dig are different; though many take place in the warm summer months (when professors are able to supervise), there are those that run at other times of the year.

A dig in Bethsaida, near the sea of Galilee, will cost $460 for one week in a dorm. In Dor, south of Haifa, a three-week dig will cost $2,995.

A copy of the Biblical Archaeology Review (BAR) costs $4.50; to order the Jan/Feb issue, call 800/678-5555. BAR's Web site (bib-arch.org) also lists most of the information about the digs.

What about "The Earthwatch Institute"?

You may have noted that I have not included the Earthwatch organization in this listing, because I have sought out vacations that are either free of charge (except for airfare) or available at a nominal cost. Earthwatch enlists volunteers to assist noted university professors in their research efforts around the globe, but asks volunteers to donate what seems to be between $1,500 and $2,500 for a two-week stay (and volunteers, of course, secure their own air transportation). That figure, true, works out to considerably less if volunteers treat their costs as a tax-deductible contribution to a non-profit organization. But even considering a possible tax saving, an Earthwatch trip is not the free or nominally-priced activity that I consider a "volunteer vacation."

Having said that, the non-profit Earthwatch Institute trips are among the most impressive, fascinating, and socially-beneficial of all such volunteer efforts, to remote locations where serious work is performed; they also attract a well-read and highly-dedicated volunteer, whose company is alone a reward of working with Earthwatch. Examples of projects in the past? "Spanish Dolphins: Duties evolve to include filming the dolphins behavior underwater, taping acoustic behavior, and tracking their movements over an extended period." "Forests of Bohemia: In the field, you'll collect water samples and take pH, temperature, conductivity, and oxygen readings from more than 20 streams and reservoirs. You'll also catch and examine brook trout, take tissue samples, and sample other stream organisms." "Australia's Forest Marsupials: You'll learn to census arboreal marsupials--Leadbeater's possums, greater gliders, sugar gliders, feathertail gliders--in some of 205 sites, count dens, conduct small mammal surveys, and determine which logging practices have the least impact on these marsupials and 60 bird species." "Bahamian Reef Survey: Snorkelers will learn to conduct a number of measurements along transects: surveying hard corals, gorgonians, sponges, and algae; mapping transect sites; or testing water samples for clarity, salinity, and pH." "Maternal and Child Health in India: Paired with one of Nalamdana's trained field staff as an interpreter, you will help gather nutritional information in 400 households per urban slum or rural village, and supplement the household surveys by assisting in checking women and children for nutrition-related disease at medical clinics."

For more information, contact The Earthwatch Institute, 3 Clock Tower Place, Suite 100, Box 75, Maynard, MA 01754, phone 978/461-0081 or 800/776-0188, e-mail info@earthwatch.org or visit the Web site at earthwatch.org/.

Aiding the outdoors and maintaining the "wild lands"

You achieve this next worthy end by participating in a Sierra Club Service Trip operated in nearly 25 U.S. states by the mighty conservationist organization called the Sierra Club, now 700,000 members strong. Because many of the trips are subsidized by corporate donations, fees are low: ranging from $40/day to $100/day, usually including all the expenses of a seven-day tour of duty, except for transportation to the site. There are 70-odd service trips offered each year, and though there are a handful East of the Mississippi (North Carolina, Virginia, etc.), most are in the wide-open country out West.

You perform your "service" in some of the most enchanting places in all of America, many times in remote and less accessible areas like the Gila Wilderness of New Mexico, the Washakie Wilderness of Wyoming, the Adirondack Forest Preserve of New York, the Volcanoes National Park of Hawaii, Bryce Canyon in Utah. There are also chances to work in environments you might not expect, such as the public parks of New York City. Though half the work is related to trail maintenance--by encouraging visitors to use well-marked trails, and limit their wanderings to them, the Sierra Club protects the delicate ecosystems of the park--projects extend to numerous other matters such as meadow restoration, revegetation projects, archaelogical digs and wildlife research projects (one wildlife research projects centers on humpback whale monitoring off the coast of Maui). "Workdays," says one description of a Sierra Club project, "will be divided between cleaning up nearby abandoned mining towns and reconstructing part of the Brown Basin Trail." Says another: "We will revegetate campsites." Or "our work will include cleanup and maintenance in and around the most imposing prehistoric ruins of the Southwest"; "we will cut and clear downed trees and underbrush from ... around Chub Pond north of Old Forge."

Half the days of most trips are devoted to simple enjoyment of the wilderness; half are workdays. Lodging is in rustic cabins, lodges, tents (participants must bring personal camping gear) or hostels (in New York City); most trips have cooks to prepare meals--but everyone is expected to "lend a hand" in meal preparation; companionship is provided by vital, dynamic Americans of all ages. Complete descriptions of each service trip are set forth annually in the January/February edition (occasionally in other months as well) of Sierra, official magazine of the club. For a copy of that listing, write to: Sierra Club Outing Department, 85 Second Street, Second Floor, San Francisco, CA 94105, phone 415/977-5500. You can also search for volunteer opportunities on the Sierra Club Web site (sierraclub.org/, click on "get outdoors" on the right side of the screen), or send an e-mail to national.outings@sierraclub.org.

Slightly different in character is the even more extensive program of volunteer work projects in national and state parks, and national forests, for which the American Hiking Society serves as clearinghouse. Each year it lists nearly 100 trail-building and park maintenance opportunities, for which food and lodging costs are nominal; volunteers provide the open-air parks with services that tight budgets will not allow the government agencies themselves to supply. Thus, for a weekend or as long as two weeks people act as trail-builders, restoring footpaths, refurbishing, old cabins, constructing log bridges, and practicing stone masonry across the country--and what "aerobics" that entails! "We clear brush, grub out stumps, trim vegetation, remove downed trees, repair erosion damage, and generally keep trails open ... using hand tools like shovel, pick, pulaski, and saw.... It's strenuous," says an A.H.S. publication. Weeklong work vacations usually cost between $90 and $125, plus an extra $25 fee for non-members.

To order a copy of "Get Outside," A.H.S.'s guide to volunteer vacations in the outdoors send a check for $10.95 (plus $4 shipping and handling) to AHS, Get Outside, 1422 Fenwick Lane, Silver Spring, MD 20910. For further information, contact American Hiking Society by phone at 301/565-6704. You can also view A.H.S.'s extensive Web site, including the full list of volunteer opportunities, at americanhiking.org/.

Conserving nature world wide Fo
r those interested in taking a "reen "holiday, one which involves volunteer conservation work such as repairing footpaths or monitoring turtles, The British Trust For Conservation Volunteers (BTCV) offers many excellent opportunities in Britain and beyond at a low cost. For one week on a UK program, the price is roughly £100, which covers housing, meals, instruction and equipment. To join an international program, the cost can range from £100 to £970 per week. In return, volunteers take an active role in helping promote conservation of the world ' plant and animal life.

If the UK is your destination of choice, you can participate in one of BTCV's "Natural Breaks," which are offered year round and range from two to 19 days of work, with a typical work day starting at 9 a.m. and ending at 5 p.m. The rate varies according to the length of stay and the choice of accommodations, which are classified by BTCV into three categories: "simple," sleeping on a camping mat on the floor of a village hall, "standard," staying in youth hostel dormitories or camping, and "superior," housing in holiday cottages which may offer full catering. Groups are composed of up to 12 conservation and wildlife enthusiasts ages 16 and up. You must be 18 or older to participate in the international trips.

The international trips are offered throughout the year in 26 different countries all over the world, from Bulgaria and Senegal, to Spain and Iceland. Many of these programs run for 10 days or longer; weeklong stays are sometimes available through an individual arrangement. Participants need not worry about speaking the language of the country, as group leaders are chosen with the necessary language skills. Sample programs from summer 2005 include "Traditional Building Restoration" in Greece from July 14-27, "Meadow Preservation" in Hungary from June 19 to 28.

Extensive information is available on the Web site, www.btcv.org. Or write to British Trust for Conservation Volunteers, 163 Balby Rd.,Doncaster, South Yorkshire, U.K. DN4 0RH (phone 011-1302-572-244 email information@btcv.org.uk).

Farming & chores: Organic farming and homestay

Whether you love gardening, caring for animals, watching the sunrise, or simply living in another country at no cost, volunteering on an organic farm is a great way to receive free room and board in exchange for four to six hours of work per day, six days a week, almost anywhere in the world. WWOOF, Willing Workers on Organic Farms, is the major organization that makes these opportunities possible, offering a cultural exchange where 'WWOOFers 'live and work with the families of host farms while learning about both the skills of organic growing and the country where they are living. WWOOF has national branches in 22 countries. WWOOF Independents also has a list of worldwide WWOOF hosts.

How do you become a WWOOFer? First, decide which country you would like to work in and send away to their national organization, if they have one, for a book of farm listings. The cost is usually between $10 and $30. Once you have acquired the book, you have all the contact information you need to get in touch with individual families to arrange your stay on the farm. The book serves as your membership verification as well; you will need to show it to the family when you arrive. You are responsible for your own transportation but once you arrive on the farm, you pay nothing for your stay.

The work on the farm varies greatly, depending on the family's needs at the time. Possible responsibilities include herding sheep, harvesting fruit, making bread, planting trees, milking cows or painting the farmhouse. WWOOF recommends you get as much information regarding your role on the farm of your choice at least two weeks before your arrival date. Under no circumstances should you show up to a farm without having confirmed your visit with your hosts.

To learn more about WWOOF, or to find contact information for your national organization, visit the WWOOF Independents Web site at wwoof.org/ or write to WWOOF INDEPENDENTS, PO Box 2675, Lewes BN7 1RB, England, United Kingdom, or WOOFUSA, P.O. Box 510, Felton, CA, 95108, 831/425-FARM or information@wwoofusa.org.

Working on a kibbutz

{Editor's Note: The vacations listed in this chapter for Israel should only be considered once peace has been restored. The US State Department has issued a travel advisory recommending that travelers stay away from Israel and Palestine right now and we agree with its recommendation.}

Do you have two months to give of yourself? That's the minimum stay required to share the life of an Israeli kibbutz, one of the communal societies that contain only 3% of the Israeli population, but produce 50% of its food and none of its crime. A type of collective farm in which property is held in common and children are raised as a group, the kibbutz has long held a strong fascination for Americans, both Jewish and gentile. Responding to a heavy demand, the kibbutz movement currently permits young Americans (18 to 35) of any religion to join their ranks for a two-month (or longer) "workcamp vacation" for a total fee of $230 ($150 registration fee plus $80 insurance), not including airfare to Israel. They call this a "work" vacation for a reason: You'll be expected to work seven to eight hours a day, six days a week.

Enrichment programs are also available for those aged 18 to 28 that consist of five months of living and working on the kibbutz while also studying Hebrew and attending seminars on Jewish issues. There is also a shorter, six-week program during the summer. And what sort of work do you perform while actually "on" the kibbutz? You either labor in the fields, do laundry or cooking, or even work in small kibbutz "factories" for eight hours a day, six days a week, receiving all meals daily and lodgings with a kibbutz family. For all the alternatives and more, write Kibbutz Program Center, 633 3rd Ave, 21st Floor, New York, NY 10017(phone 800/247-7852, e-mail kpc@jazo.org.il, or view the Web site at kibbutzprogramcenter.org/), which represents an impressive 280 kibbutzim (the plural of kibbutz).

Special skills needed: Saving lives

When an epidemic strikes or a bloody war breaks out, victims need help-and if you're a health care professional, you can provide some of the help they desperately need. In 1971, a group of French doctors formed Médeéins Sans Frontièreè (or Doctors Without Borders, as it is usually known in the U.S., or MSF), an organization devoted to providing medical care to those in need. Today it is an international network with more than 2,500 doctors, nurses, and others volunteering their services in 80 countries around the globe. Beyond patient care, MSF tackles a range of health issues, including training personnel, water and sanitation improvement, and drug distribution. The stress level is high, but participants say the experience is unmatched.

The commitment MSF requires is a big one: a minimum of six months. More frequently, first time assignments last about a year to ensure project continuity. Also, whereas other volunteer programs rarely care about specialized skills or language proficiency, with this area of work both are crucial. However, you don't necessarily have to be medically trained to participate. MSF is also looking for logisticians, administrators, experts in humanitarian law, and other individuals who can contribute to their projects. MSF covers room and board, round-trip transportation, comprehensive insurance, and gives volunteers a small monthly stipend. To apply, fill out the application on its Web site (doctorswithoutborders.org/).

Once the necessary paperwork is in, MSF interviews qualified applicants and then tries to set them up with an assignment; this is a process that will take months. For more information on MSF and how to get involved, check out its Web site or write Doctors Without Borders, 333 Seventh Ave., 2 floor, New York, NY, 10001. You can also call 212/679-6800 (in New York) or 310/399-0049 (in Los Angeles).

Health Volunteers Overseas provides similar opportunities for a much shorter time frame; two to four weeks is the standard assignment length. But HVO is even more particular about who it needs: specialists in anesthesia, dentistry, internal medicine, oral and maxillofacial surgery, orthopaedics, pediatrics, hand surgery, nursing, and physical therapy. While at HVO's 60 project sites, spread out among 25 countries, volunteers train local health care providers to improve their ability to serve their communities. "This type of experience really pulls you into the culture," Director of Programs Kate Fincham explains. "You're working with the people who live there." As for costs, volunteers are responsible for all of their transportation to and from the program site, and some, but not all, of the programs provide housing and meals. All programs tend to be in areas with an extremely low cost of living, so volunteers can expect to pay somewhere around $2,000 for their trip. All expenses are tax-deductible. For more information, contact Health Volunteers Overseas, 1900 L St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20036 (phone 202/296-0928; Web site: hvousa.org/).

Alleviating world poverty Yo
u perform this next voluntary deed with a highly impressive group. Like the fictitious priest who lived among the lepers, beggars, and cart-pullers of The City of Joy --hat massive mid-80s bestseller --o permanent members of the Fourth World Movement share the actual lives of the most abject poor in shantytown communities all over the world. Without making quite the same commitment, non-permanent "volunteers"spend two weeks each summer in workcamps at the movement ' international headquarters in Pierrelaye, France, or at a handful of other spots around Europe. These part-time volunteers are divided into two groups. For those 18 and over (with no upper age limit), the workcamp experience does not include interaction with those in extreme poverty.

Volunteers pay a small sum for room and board ($40 to $75/week, depending on location). For those aged 16-25, "Youth Branch Workcamps", one-week training sessions (estimate about $10 a day), offer direct interaction between volunteers and the impoverished. No knowledge of French is needed; work includes carpentry, painting, masonry, cooking, followed by evening discussions and readings, until recently with the movement's much-revered founder, the late Fr. Josef Wresinski.

Other volunteers devote three months, at any time of the year, to an unpaid internship at the movement's Washington, D.C., headquarters, or at the New York City branch office, again working with families living in extreme poverty on projects designed to draw them back into society: street libraries, literacy and computer programs, family vacations. Interns share housing (free) and housing duties with permanent Fourth World members, but are asked to contribute to food costs.

Because the movement is painfully strapped for funds, be sure to enclose an already-stamped, self-addressed envelope (and perhaps a contribution, too) when requesting further information and literature: Fourth World Movement, 107, Av. Du Génééaé Leclerc, 95480, Pierrelaye, France. Or view the Web site at atd-fourthworld.org/.

Promoting peace It
isn ' easy to find a way of experiencing life in a foreign country as an inclusive member of the community instead of a temporary visitor, but the group excursions run by the small volunteer organization, Lisle, strive towards this goal. Lisle arranges three-week programs across the world for groups of 12 to 15 participants of any age (from 8 to 80 years old on recent trips) and two to three group leaders. The programs bring members of the group and members of the host community together by focusing on an issue particularly significant to the community and directing the group ' daily activities towards progress on that issue.

On its Indian women's voices program, for example, group members visit development programs and rural women social workers. On Lisle's Bali program, group members work alongside Budakelin artists in their vision to create a cultural center for the community. The group and the native artists work towards engaging the community in the appreciation of such artistic endeavors as gamelan music, Balinese dancing, weaving, making prayer offerings, and woodcarving. Programs like the Indian program cost about $1,850 for three weeks, excluding airfare.

Lisle programs also include time for a group orientation to create initial supportive relationships among group members, and excursions away from the host communities, which may involve hiking, snorkeling, or mountain climbing. The organization also emphasizes personal reflection and self-growth throughout the trip, in hopes of inspiring a more accepting and socially responsible world community.

Assistance is available to those in need of financial support for their programs.

For more information, visit Lisle's Web site at http://ww.lisleinternational.org/ or write to Lisle, 900 County Rd., Suite 269,Leander, TX 78641 (phone 800/477-1538, email lisle@io.com).

Three Jimmy Carter-approved programs (The Friendship Force, I.E.S.C AND GATE)

His life--comparatively speaking--was in ruins. He had been defeated for reelection to the presidency. His family business was in debt. Prematurely retired, shaken and adrift, he faced a mid-life crisis more intense than most, but similar in essence to that confronting millions of middle-aged Americans.

And so he and his wife traveled. But in a different way. What restored the spirits of Jimmy and Rosalynn Carter, among several major steps, was an uncommon series of selfless, "outer-directed" trips. For them, travel was undertaken to discover new world issues and social needs, and--equally important--to be involved in curing the ills that travel revealed. The vacation challenge, writes the former president, "lies in figuring out how to combine further education with the pleasures of traveling in distant places, and, on occasion, helping to make the lives of the people you visit a little better." Having done both, the Carters leave little doubt that the activity has launched them on a second, rewarding phase of life.

In a remarkable book published by Random House--Everything to Gain: Making the Most of the Rest of Your Life--Jimmy and Rosalynn Carter tell, among other things, of the several life-enhancing travel or travel-related organizations with which they have associated their names, or which they recommend to others. These are: the Friendship Force, Habitat for Humanity (discussed in-depth in the "Building Blocks" volunteer section), GATE (Global Awareness Through Experience), and the International Executive Service Corps.

For the Carters, as for so many other Americans, simply to lie on a beach, or otherwise turn off the mind, is no longer the sole--or even the wisest--approach to vacationing. Using the mind is a far happier leisure activity. Seeking challenge and new ideas is the way to travel pleasure. A change can help us, in Allan Frommer's words, "become more alive again." And when the changes achieved through travel are combined with selfless activity--work designed to help others or advance world understanding--then what results is not a mere vacation, but some of the most rewarding interludes of life.

The Friendship Force

This is already known to many Americans. It is the 27-year-old, nonprofit, Atlanta-based organization founded by the Carters and the Rev. Wayne Smith, which each year sends thousands of adult travelers ("goodwill ambassadors") to live for one, two, or three weeks in foreign homes found in 56 countries on several continents. Subsequently, the foreign hosts come here to live in American homes. Since the stay in each case is basically without charge (except for transportation and administration), the cost of a Friendship Force holiday is considerably less than for standard trips to the same destination, and upward of 500,000 people have thus far participated. Upon returning, they continue to exchange correspondence or privately arranged visits with the families they have met. In this way, writes Rosalynn Carter, "friendships are ... made that can only lead to a more peaceful world."

For information on membership in the Friendship Force, and on the exchanges planned from dozens of U.S. cities, contact Friendship Force International, 34 Peachtree St., Suite 900, Atlanta, GA 30303 (phone 404/522-9490, Web site friendship-force.org/, e-mail info@friendshipforce.org).

Whereas Doctors without Borders and Health Volunteers Overseas especially needs people with medical expertise, the International Executive Service Corps (901 15th St. NW, suite 1010, Washington, DC, 20005, phone 202/326-0280, Web iesc.org/), needs experts in the world of business. IESC arranges trips for retired business executives to lend their expertise to would-be entrepreneurs in developing nations.

GATE (Global Awareness Through Experience) (contact GATE, 912 Market Street, LaCrosse, WI 54601 or phone 608/791-5283. There's also a Web site at travel-gate.org/) offers tours to experience the realities of life in the "Emerging World," and is operated by an order of Catholic nuns, the Sisters of Charity. Most GATE tours (to the Czech Republic, Poland, Mexico, Guatemala and El Salvador) are 10 days in length, and consist of visits to untouristed local communities and homes, and daily seminars attended by persons representing every stripe of political thinking at the destination. Tour members learn, says GATE, "from the poor, as well as from social and political analysts, theologians and economists." GATE tours are among the least expensive to anywhere, and generally cost $950, plus airfare, for 10 days of all-inclusive arrangements (all lodgings, meals, and transportation to programmed events), in addition to a $150 non-refundable registration fee.

A "mini-Peace Corps"

Each year a Minneapolis/St. Paul organization called Global Volunteers offers some 70 varied departures of a "working vacation" to host communities such as Mexico, Costa Rica, Jamaica, Tanzania, Indonesia, Vietnam, Spain, Russia, Poland and within the U.S. --ach lasting a manageable two or three weeks. And each will be available to those with no particular engineering or agricultural skills --ike lawyers, let ' say, or homemakers from Memphis or Chattanooga. Since Global Volunteer ' inception, more than 10,000 volunteers have been put to work around the globe.

If all this seems a bit of radical chic, a patronizing, quick trip by dilettantes (as it initially appeared to me), then you'll want to know the following:

Each trip is undertaken at the specific request of the host community, for projects they eagerly wish to complete. The long and laborious task of soliciting such invitations has largely occupied the time of the organization over the past several years, and is now complete. No one arrives uninvited, and villagers give a warm welcome to the volunteers who will assist them in programs of education (teaching English, math, or science), health care (building clinics and community centers), and natural resources (securing potable water supplies, reforestation)--all as mapped out by the villagers themselves.

Though each participant stays for only two or three weeks, the projects go on for a much longer time, and are worked on by successive groups averaging eight to 12 volunteers apiece. As one group leaves, another arrives, and the work continues unabated.

On some trips to the less developed countries, so great is the gap in formal education between the villagers (many of them illiterate and thus unable to read instructions) and their guests (mostly college graduates) that even the most technically untrained of those volunteers can make a substantial contribution. "I never knew I had these skills," said one middle-aged matron, "but mixing concrete is like baking a cake: you simply follow the recipe."

The initial four or five visits apiece in 1989-1995 to each of the destinations (a total of 39 preparatory trips) were immensely successful. "We built a relationship of trust," says Burnham (Bud) Philbrook, a lawyer and former member of the Minnesota House of Representatives who is president of Global Volunteers. "We showed them that not all Americans were like characters from 'Dallas.' " Currently, the requests for further visits arriving from villages around the world are far greater than the number of volunteers on hand to make the trips.

In the early 1990s, the organization made frequent visits to such locations as the following:

 

In every village, the organization insists that the ultimate responsibility for development be on the local people, who initiate and supervise every project, using resources on hand and tools they are familiar with. In total agreement with the teachings of the late British economist E. F. Schumacher ("Small Is Beautiful"), Global Volunteers imports no complex devices or machines; if shovels are lacking to dig a well, they send out no urgent orders for a shovel, but use local implements. While providing assistance, the volunteers learn about community structures, family loyalties, courage in the face of adversity, "receiving far more than we contribute," according to Philbrook.

As one volunteer put it: "I expected to find a sense of futility and hopelessness. I discovered instead a determination of the human spirit to carry on in spite of limited circumstances, an attitude of innovation and make-do, an eagerness to learn new ideas, and hope for their children to have a better life than they've had."

Lest the group be accused of overlooking widespread poverty and development needs here at home, the organization runs about a dozen programs in the United States as well. A program in the Mississippi Delta focuses on community improvement--volunteers build and paint community buildings as well as tutor both children and adults.

Because Global Volunteers is a registered, nonprofit organization, contributions to it are tax deductible; and because the expenses incurred by each volunteer are deemed to be contributions by them, they, too, are deductible (provided you don't take any additional vacation immediately before or after the scheduled trip). Keep that in mind when considering the modest cost of participating: from $750 for one week in the United States and between $1,370 - $2,750 for international trips to places such as China, the Cook Islands, Poland, Greece, Tanzania, the Ukraine and Northern Ireland (among others), not including airfare, but otherwise all-inclusive. Each of these prices is reduced by federal and state tax savings of as much as 38% for some Americans. And each price includes the services of a trained "team leader," and about $100 per person for project materials (concrete, nails, other construction aids).

Accommodations? A "guest house" in Spain; hotels in Poland, Mexico, Vietnam; community housing, dormitory style in the developing countries. In the U.S., homestays with local people. The emphasis in each case is on experiencing local life from a non-tourist perspective.

To join a "private" Peace Corps sponsoring short-term working vacations, one that has gained my own excited attention to the same extent as the original Peace Corps, contact: Global Volunteers, 375 East Little Canada Rd., St. Paul, MN 55117-1628 (phone 800/487-1074 or email@globalvolunteers.com). Or view the Web site at globalvolunteers.org/ for organization and program information.

Send your child to an international workcamp

This summer, many thousands of American teenagers will be hurtling through Europe by escorted motor coach, isolated from the life of that continent by the steel-and-glass enclosure of their buses. They will socialize with one another, speak and hear English throughout, eat in segregated sections of hotel dining rooms, and regard themselves--subconsciously but firmly--as a privileged elite.

A better-informed segment of our youth will be sent by their parents, out of motives of the purest love, to international workcamps. International "workcamps"--a horrid term unrelated to the happy atmosphere of the sites--were first formed at the end of World War I. A Swiss pacifist, Pierre Ceresole, conceived of projects in which youth of the former combatants--France and Germany--would work together to clear the wreckage of war. Fittingly, he chose the battlefield of Verdun for the first voluntary "workcamp." Several hundred such places are now found in countries of both Western and Eastern Europe.

There they will perform socially useful projects in the full midst of the European population. They will mix with other international young people, attempt foreign languages, make lifelong friendships, enjoy the satisfaction of contributing to worthy efforts, gain an appreciation for the realities of life abroad, and feel their minds stretch and grow. Work responsibilities for young people vary widely. In the midlands of England, they take underprivileged children on summer excursions to the sea. On the outskirts of Paris, they fill in for vacationing orderlies at centers for the aged. In the national parks of Germany, they restore hiking trails or clear away debris. And in the slums of Boston, they help to refurbish low-cost housing for the poor. While no one would denigrate their ensuing accomplishments, it becomes clear that the camaraderie of shared work, and the international understanding it brings about, are as important as the structures they build or the services they render.

The major volunteer vacation resources

Here in the United States, the two major clearinghouses for information on nearly 1,000 international workcamps (they will also book you into them) are: SCI/International Voluntary Service, 5474 Walnut Level Rd., Crozet, CA, 22932 (phone: 206/350-6585) or see the Web site at sci-ivs.org/; and Volunteers for Peace International Workcamps (VFP), 1034 Tiffany Road, Belmont, VT 05730 (phone 802/259-2759, fax 802/259-2922, e-mail vfp@vfp.org) or view the Web site at vfp.org/. SCI requires its overseas volunteers to be at least 18 years of age, and will accept 16- and 17-year-olds only into its several domestic workcamps scattered around the country. Volunteers in third world countries must be 21. VFP will accept 15-, 16- and 17-year-olds for certain programs in Western and Eastern Europe. It enforces an 18-year-old minimum for the remainder of all international camps and U.S. workcamps, although there are a few camps that accept parents with children. Those can be found in Switzerland, Italy, and Denmark.

SCI, with branches worldwide, is the more strongly ideological of the two; many of its workcamps stress liberal political values or ecological concerns. Recent workcamps have included construction of energy-efficient "hogans" (dwellings) and aid to elderly people on Navajo reservations in the Far West; gardening and outdoor activities in Los Angeles with young people otherwise in danger of recruitment into youth gangs; staffing of refugee camps in Croatia; renovating a home for AIDS patients in Matera, Italy.

VFP is less political in its approach. "We believe that any opportunity to come into contact with other cultures is worthwhile," is how a recent official once put it. Sample activities include coordinating activities in a center for the homeless of Vienna, repairing a Belgian Red Cross shelter for political refugees, path clearing and fire prevention work in Italian wildlife parks.

Interestingly, in the past both programs have included numerous camps in Central and Eastern Europe (building a kindergarten in Bosnia, working on environmental projects in the Czech Republic); and VFP is particularly proud of its record of sending youthful American participants to several different workcamps in Russia. For three- and four-week periods in the summer, international volunteers helped an equal number of Russians to build a children's sanatorium on the west bank of the Volga, assisted scientists in identifying and tracking wildlife in various nature preserves of the Western Urals, and worked in two children's hospitals in Moscow. Programs include organized discussion and debate on local culture, history and politics. Construction-based programs do not include a formal forum for such interchange.

What does it all amount to? Listen to the returning three-week volunteers. "It was wonderful," said a youngster from Michigan, "to see people working toward a common goal, not as 'Americans' or 'Czechs' or 'Germans' or 'Catholics' or 'Protestants' or 'Jews,' but as people." "I felt so lucky to have befriended people from around the world and across the political spectrum," said another. "There were 60 of us, from 14 nations, and after work we would sit around a campfire. What followed were conversations and arguments, some dancing, and also some people sitting quietly, reflecting. It was during those informal times that I learned the most."

Both the SCI and VFP directories for the coming summer are published in April. SCI charges $35 for membership, newsletters and a yearly list of opportunities; VFP asks a mere $20 (and the latter charge also includes subscription to a newsletter and is deducted from any later registration fee). The two groups also post their workcamp directories online. After perusing the several hundred descriptions of workcamps, applicants pay (to SCI) $115 for a U.S. workcamp assignment, $175 for one abroad; and (to VFP) $250 for the majority of programs. Those prices usually include room and board (but in some situations you'll have to pay more, in cash when you arrive), but do not include airfare or ground transportation to the workcamp.

The Council on International Educational Exchange (C.I.E.E.), 7 Custom House, 3rd floor, Portland, ME, 04101 (phone 800/40-STUDY, Web site: ciee.org/) lists dozens of International Volunteer Projects for college-aged people throughout the world, including several in the U.S. Projects, which range from serving as an assistant at a summer camp for people with disabilities to helping to restore a medieval castle, are typically scheduled for the summer months and last two to four weeks. Participants must be at least 18, and the majority of volunteers are 25 or under.

A similar but much smaller and more expensive program for high school students called Global Service Projects is also offered by the C.I.E.E. During the summer of 2002 (the first year for its high school-only programs), there were trips to Costa Rica, New Zealand, South Africa, and Spain. Students work on various projects, such as rainforest preservation (in Costa Rica), replanting trees (in New Zealand), or vegetation studies (on a game reserve in South Africa). Trips last from two to five weeks, and cost between $3,200 and $5,000, including international airfare, room and board.

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How to Charter Your Own Yacht

Meandering around the Caribbean in your own yacht sounds fantastic. of course, it also sounds expensive and complicated. The truth is, chartering a boat often costs the same as or less than a traditional big-ship cruise or beach-resort stay. With a little sailing know-how--or the assistance of a trusty captain-for-hire--anyone can rent a boat and cruise to secluded dive spots, rollicking bars, and hidden coves. Dare to go bare: You need a driver's license to rent a Dodge Neon, but there's no official certification required to hire a 50-foot yacht. Instead, a charter company will ask you to list your experience, including sailing lessons and previous yachting trips, on a résumé. Based on that, and how you perform during an onboard briefing and Q&A session, the company will decide whether your group can handle the boat you've chosen (smaller ones are easier), where you can go (some places are tougher to navigate), and whether you need a professional captain. If two or three people in your group know how to hoist the main and get on and off the dock safely, chances are you'll get to man your own craft, also known as bareboating. If you've never sailed or your skills are rusty, the company might make you hire a skipper for some or all of the trip. The extra cost is around $150 a day. A good pro will bring you up to speed on the specifics of the boat and help you steer clear of dangerous reefs and lame restaurants; his or her presence should also help you relax. You'll still be the captain in terms of deciding where to sail each day, and whether passengers can start downing piña coladas at noon. Choosing an agency: It's possible to charter a boat through a small company, but most people report a wider selection, fewer headaches, and comparable prices with a larger operation or an established broker. Sunsail and The Moorings are the Hertz and Avis of the industry, renting fleets throughout the Caribbean (and nearly everywhere else sailing is popular). Ed Hamilton & Co. is a trustworthy broker that arranges charters with hundreds of boats in the Caribbean. Before making a reservation, do some research and ask a lot of questions. Get client referrals, ideally from people who have sailed on the ship you're interested in. If you're hiring a crew, ask about the captain's credentials and personality. Also, inquire about the age of the boat, the sleeping arrangements, the amenities onboard--some come with hot tubs, kayaks, and DVD players--and the procedure if something goes wrong. (The main sail tears while you're at sea. Now what?) Make sure any deposit you pay is held in an escrow account until just before departure, so that in the event of a worst-case scenario you can get your money back as easily as possible. Prices and particulars: Most rentals have a five- or seven-day minimum. Prices are determined by season (rates go up when temperatures in the U.S. go down) and a boat's size, age, amenities, and staff. Typical rentals range from about 32 feet (four to six passengers) to 52 feet (10 to 12 passengers). Fill the boat with friends and the starting price in spring or summer for a ship with a skipper and a cook averages out to about $200 a night per person, with food and drinks included. Bareboating can start as low as $50 per person per night, and the charter company will stock the larder based on your preferences--lasagna, quiche, burgers, veggie dishes, Heineken, Bacardi--for about $25 per person per day extra. Nearly all boats have barbecue grills, and fresh fish should be easy to come by. Dropping anchor: Consensus says the best spot for a beginner to get his sea legs is in the British Virgin Islands, where the winds are consistent, the waters are deep and sheltered, and there's plenty to do ashore. With dozens of islands concentrated in a relatively small area, most sailors spend their days swimming, snorkeling, and exploring the bars, shops, and beaches of yet another small port. Over the course of a week, you can snorkel in the caves at deserted Norman Island, which supposedly inspired Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island; check out the giant boulders at the Baths on Virgin Gorda; and lounge on white-sand beaches and sip Painkillers--concocted with pineapple and orange juice, cream of coconut, dark rum, and nutmeg--at funky joints such as Foxy's Tamarind Bar and the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke. If you're ever looking for advice on where to sail next, tie up for the night, or go bonefishing, use the time-honored tradition of sailors all over the world: Ask at the bar. Don't drop anchor right next to another yacht--the whole point of a charter is privacy. 1. When someone waves at you from a nearby boat, he or she may be trying to tell you something. Don't simply wave back. 2. It's not so uncommon for a boat to be drifting halfway between Norman Island and St. John with everyone onboard fast asleep. Before you set out, be sure you've learned how to anchor properly. 3. If anyone within eyesight appears to be offended, put your swimsuit on. 4. Always remember to tip the crew--in cash. Transportation   Sunsail 800/797-5310, sunsail.com   The Moorings 800/535-7289, moorings.com   Ed Hamilton & Co. 800/621-7855, ed-hamilton.com Lodging   Foxy's Tamarind Bar Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke, 284/495-9258   Soggy Dollar Bar Sandcastle Hotel, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, 284/495-9888 British Virgin Islands Tourist Board Road Town, Tortola, 284/494-3134, bvitouristboard.com

America's Best Cooking Schools

While serious foodies may think the Food Network's dueling Iron Chefs and Emeril's incessant exhortations ("Let's kick it up a notch!") will have a lot to answer for in that great six-burner kitchen in the sky, cooking school administrators acknowledge that these shows have sparked unprecedented interest in learning how to cook. If you add to that development a dollop of post-9/11 hankering to stay close to home and get back to old-fashioned nurturing, you've got a recipe for the latest hot travel trend: cooking school vacations. "This will be our biggest year yet for attendance in amateur classes," says Richard Smilow, president of the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE, formerly Peter Kump's Cooking School) in its 27th year in New York City. Cooking, once something only your mother did (well, some mothers did), now suddenly seems to have, dare we say it, sex appeal. "Cooking is a part of the new dating ritual," observes Larry Kaplan, a radiologist from Reading, Pennsylvania, who says that he hopes taking a five-day Asian cooking course at ICE will boost his post-divorce dating prospects. "It's a sensual experience of tastes," Kaplan says, "and it's a way to show caring that's a more intimate gift than taking a date to a restaurant." And best of all, the growing number of weekend and weeklong cooking vacation packages at inns, B&Bs, and cooking schools are great bargains. The ethnic cooking classes, especially, provide an exotic adventure to foreign lands--without the expense or bother of leaving the United States. We've picked the highest-quality cooking classes in America that also have the lowest prices available--and better still, are located in places where there's plenty more to do when you take off your apron. Whether for the weekend or the whole week, courses usually follow a similar routine: The chef goes over the recipes the students will tackle that day, offering insight and background on the cuisine, the ingredients, or the techniques required. At the end of class, the students sit down and dine on the fruits of their labor in a luscious multicourse meal, with lots of wine--and no cleaning up. It's one of the most soul-satisfying ways you'll find for getting your hands dirty since mud pies and finger paint--and this time, eating your creations tastes a whole lot better. New York City: The Institute of Culinary Education (formerly Peter Kump's New York cooking school) "We offer the widest range of three-, four-, and five-day cooking courses anywhere--we have nine teaching kitchens, open seven days a week, with technique classes in fine cooking, pastry, bread-baking, cake-decorating, and every ethnic cuisine from Italian and Japanese to Thai and Vietnamese," says Richard Smilow, president of ICE, which caters to professionals and amateurs alike. And a variety of people are attracted to the classes for equally wide-ranging reasons. "We had one woman who used to work in the World Trade Center--and our bread-baking class was the thing that helped her come back to Manhattan without being afraid," Smilow says. Others come for the adventure. The adventure? "I see this cooking class as part of my adventure travel and adult education," says Larry Kaplan (who also hopes it will help his dating odds). "I've done motorcycle racing for a week, hang gliding, just found a bullfighting school. Cooking is not as suicidal--except when we get to the hot chili recipe," Kaplan says at the end of his Asian cooking class. And the prices are very reasonable, especially for the quality of the instruction. Classes run from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and the school also offers a wide range of single-day workshops ranging in price from $85 to $100. Though the school has no arrangement with local hotels, there are many bargains to be had in New York City, especially in B&Bs, which few people know anything about (see Budget Travel's "New York Rooms Under $100" from the September/October 2001 issue). Cost: Three-day classes, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., $275-$415; five-day classes, $495; tuition includes snacks, a huge lunch, and wine each day; hotels near the school: Chelsea Hotel, Chelsea Inn, Gramercy Park Hotel. For B&Bs under $100 per night, contact: Affordable New York City, 212/533-4001; City Lights, 212/737-7049; CitySonnet.com, 212/614-3034; Manhattan Getaways, 212/956-2010; New York Habitat, 212/255-8018. Contact: The Institute of Culinary Education (formerly Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), 50 W. 23 St., New York, NY 10011, 212/847-0700, iceculinary.com/. Boulder, Colorado: Cooking School of the Rockies The 12 students sitting around a huge stainless-steel table next to a vast, gleaming professional kitchen (complete with 12 burners, three ovens, and angled viewing mirror) are sipping fresh coffee, munching on crusty French bread with cream cheese and smoked whitefish as they go around the table explaining why they have come to Boulder to take this five-day course on "Basic Techniques of Cooking." "My wife wants me to be the cook of the family and my mom didn't cook, so I'm here to learn and maybe even to instill some better eating habits in my kids," says Chris Pritchard, of Louisville, Colorado, near Boulder. "I don't want to embarrass myself when I entertain," says Mary Delaney, a sales manager for Qwestdex in Denver. In the classical techniques course, students learn handy tricks like shaping your fingers into a claw so that you slice vegetables without slicing your fingertips, or knowing when meat is properly cooked by using the feel of the flesh in different parts of your hand as a guide. Other special five-day "Cooking Vacations" here (available from April through October) focus on desserts and bread techniques as well as ethnic cuisines such as Asian, Mediterranean, Italian, and more. For the five-day courses, the $575 tuition includes plenty of eating--breakfast, snacks, and a huge full lunch with wine that rarely leaves you wanting much for dinner. If gazing at the mountains constantly in your line of sight anywhere in Boulder isn't enough for you, here are a few budget tips on local food and fun: Japango sushi restaurant on Pearl Street offers half-price dishes and drinks before 6 p.m., The Med restaurant has $1 tapas midweek from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., and the Basemar Cinema Saver movie theater only charges $3. Cost: $575 tuition, includes five days of classes, breakfast, snacks, huge full lunch with wine each day. Contact: Culinary School of the Rockies, 637 S. Broadway, #H, Boulder, CO 80305; 303/494-7988, culinaryschoolrockies.com/. How to go & What to do: Fly into Denver and drive 40 minutes to Boulder. Walk off all those calories at the downtown Pearl Street pedestrian mall, where you'll find the Boulder Arts and Crafts Co-op displaying the talent of local artists. Hudson Valley, New York: Inn to Inn Cooking Vacations Here you'll find a truly moveable feast. Each day you travel through the lush green Hudson Valley a couple of hours north of New York City, starting with a tour at, perhaps, a local vineyard for a wine-tasting or at a sheepherding farm where a French master cheesemaker explains the process and offers samples. Then, the main event. Over three days you travel to three different vintage inns where the top chefs and often the pastry chef as well-trained in Europe and at culinary institutes--give you their undivided attention. They take you, hands-on, through the steps for cooking up their favorite four-to-five-course meals. Afterwards, you sit down and savor what you've just helped prepare--along with the chef's selection of wines. "My wife gave this trip to me as a birthday present--she didn't come, because she can't even boil water," says Roy L. Johnson, Jr., a senior vice president of Bank of Louisville, who had a ball pinching gnocchi in the same way that chef Allen Katz, owner of Allyn's Restaurant, had showed the class of nine. "I especially liked when Chef Allen sat down with us for the meal and admitted that he had a made a mistake on one of the dishes," Johnson says. "You learn that it's OK, that cooking's not rocket science; it should be creative and fun." Johnson's only regret was that he hadn't allowed enough time beyond the three-day cooking classes to tour the richly historical countryside. "I made a few side trips, to Cold Spring where George Washington camped out, to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown (two hours away), and to a very old cemetery," he says. "But I wish I had known that West Point was only ten miles away." That's why he's coming back as soon as possible. "Next time I'll take my wife," Johnson says. "She won't attend the cooking lessons, but she'll love exploring the Hudson Valley." Cost: Three-day classes, Tuesday to Thursday (or weekends in winter) limited to 8-12 people; $380 includes snacks, huge lunches, wine; participants get 10-percent or greater discounts at the following vintage Inns: Aubergine, The Grand Dutchess, Le Chambord, starting as low as $85 per couple per night. Contact: Maren Rudolph, President, Vintage Hudson Valley, provider of Inn to Inn Cooking Vacations, P.O. Box 288, Irvington, NY 10533, 914/591-4503, vintagehudsonvalley.com/ How to go & What to do: The cheapest flights are usually into Albany International Airport, though Stewart Airport is closer to most of the inns. The region's attractions include West Point, Baseball Hall of Fame (Cooperstown), the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival in Garrison, Vassar College art gallery (free), Bardavan Theater in Poughkeepsie, the Olde Rhinebeck Airdrome (Rhinebeck), and the Vanderbilt and Franklin D. Roosevelt estates in Hyde Park. Walloon Lake Village, Michigan: Fonds Du Cuisine Cooking School "Our name means 'the fundamentals of food,' so we focus on good foods, simply cooked," explains David Beier, chef and owner of the Fonds Du Cuisine Cooking School at Michigan's Walloon Lake Inn. Beier, who trained with European chefs and worked in 18 restaurants, has been teaching "techniques, rather than recipes" for the last 18 years. "You can get recipes on the Internet, but I teach how to thicken a sauce, sharpen a knife, braise, saute, how you can get organized in the kitchen and make the most of the few hours you have there, techniques that allow you to look at any recipe and be successful," Beier says. The series of classes is very intimate, usually about four to six people, so everybody can be involved in cooking an entire meal. The four hours of daily instruction (from Sunday to Thursday, October through March) are an intensive but highly sociable experience. "The view on the lake here is beautiful--and the students usually drain the wine bottle at the three-course midday meal they share," Beier says with a laugh. Those who don't go to their rooms for a nap can spend the rest of the afternoons in the beautiful outdoors. The inn is situated right on the 35-mile, turquoise, sandy-bottomed Walloon Lake, just a few miles from some of the best downhill (and cross-country) skiing in Michigan, and less than a mile from Lake Michigan. In winter there is also ice-skating (indoor and outdoor rinks) or snowshoeing. In spring, there's morel hunting. Cost: $400 per person (double occupancy); $440 for a single, includes four days (16 hours) of classes, four nights at the inn, breakfast, and a huge lunch/dinner daily; classes run from Sunday to Thursday, October through March excluding the holidays (though Chef Beier is willing to adapt the timing to suit groups). Contact: David Beier, owner and chef, Fonds Du Cuisine Cooking School at Walloon Lake Inn, P.O. Box 459 Walloon Lake Village, MI 49796, 800/956-4665, walloonlakeinn.com/. How to go & What to do: The closest airport is PLN in Pellston, Michigan, 45 minutes away; Traverse City Airport (TVC) is 75 minutes. Skiing, ice-skating, hiking at your doorstep. Oakland, California: The Art of Thai Cooking Loha-unchit grew up in Thailand, learning her country's subtle spicing and techniques at her mother's side. She has been teaching cooking classes in California since 1985 and has written two books: Dancing Shrimp: Favorite Thai Recipes for Seafood and It Rains Fishes: Legends, Traditions and the Joy of Thai Cooking. Her classes are as complex as the flavors of her native land. "I teach about harmonizing flavors-blending hot, sour, sweet, salty, aromatic, bitter, astringent--all the aspects of taste," Loha-unchit explains. "I don't separate the food from the culture, so people get a cultural experience here, too. It's creative; it's casual--like having a group of friends over to your house," she says. And that is, in fact, what Loha-unchit is doing, as she teaches the classes out of her home. "The kitchen is cozy," says Dallas resident Gregg Stone, director of business development for a software company. It's not what he expected when he first came to Kasma's class last summer, but he soon realized the homey setting was a plus. "I think the fact that it was a normal kitchen (with the added feature of a second gas range and an assistant to help clean up) took some of the mystique out of the cooking process--and it kept the cost down," Stone says. "The price was very reasonable--you can't believe how stuffed with fresh ingredients her refrigerator was for that class each day." The tuition includes all-day classes, preparation of five to seven dishes a day, meals throughout the day, and food field trips. "Kasma took us to an outdoor Oriental farmer's market and to Oriental grocery stores in Oakland," Stone says. "We jumped the BART and went to San Francisco's Chinatown. And I went to a grocery store in Berkeley called the Berkeley Bowl--an old bowling alley converted to a grocery store with a produce section second to none." Though accommodation is not included, there are B&Bs and hotels within walking distance of the class. What does Loha-unchit want students to take away with them (besides some good Thai green chili curry paste)? "I want them to see that cooking is therapeutic," she says. "Working with ingredients is tactile; if you focus on the senses and the process rather than the results--and you keep tasting and making adjustments, you don't have to worry about the results. It will always be good." Cost: The $500 tuition includes five days of classes (with a maximum of 12 students) in summer only (though single classes run March through October), from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., field trips to Asian markets, breakfast, snacks, lunch, and wine; Kasma has a list of nearby B&Bs and motels starting as low as $65 per night. Kasma also takes groups on cooking tours of Thailand: $3,350 for 28 days, including airfare from the West Coast. Contact: Kasma Loha-unchit, P.O. Box 21165, Oakland, CA 94620, 510/655-8900, thaifoodandtravel.com/ How to go & What to do: San Francisco is 20 minutes away; you don't have to rent a car--Kasma picks students up from the Bart station one mile away. Five-day classes are also available, but only during summer months. Essex, Vermont: Whisk Away Weekends at the New England Culinary Institute Though the New England Culinary Institute (NECI) offers a rigorous professional training program, its weekend packages are decidedly low-key. There's only one main cooking class (though you can pay extra and take another). The rest of the time you spend eating at the Institute's two excellent restaurants, kicking back in the school's award-winning country Inn at Essex, and enjoying Vermont's scenic countryside and the towns of Montpelier and Burlington. "I've always enjoyed cooking but I never cooked with my girlfriend - so we went together and had a great time," says Mike Bruno, director of online marketing at iMarket inc. in Waltham, Massachusetts. "And the food at Butler's [the Institute's fine dining establishment where the advanced second-year student-chefs cook] was four-star," Bruno says. As for the price for the weekend, Cathy Whalen, a high school teacher from Plattsburgh, New York, who went with her mother, says at first she thought the rate was high. "But after we went, we both thought it was quite reasonable for what you get--the Butler Inn was the best food I've ever had in my life--and the Sunday brunch buffet..." Cathy sighs at the memory. "I thought the students must have worked for a week on it." The price covers two nights at the inn, two dinners, continental breakfasts, a huge Sunday brunch--"and in our room, there was a gift of a chef's hat and apron waiting for us," says Bruno. Though you spend less time in class instruction than at other schools, you get many opportunities to think about and watch food preparation. "At the NECI Commons restaurant (where first-year student-chefs toil) there are windows so you can watch the students preparing the foods in the kitchen. I watched them do desserts," Bruno says. Cost: Chef Inn Training: $189 a couple for a three-course dinner demonstration. Contact: The Inn at Essex, The New England Culinary Institute, 70 Essex Way, Essex, VT 05452, 800/727-4295 (ask for reservations), innatessex.com. How to go & What to do: Burlington International Airport is minutes away, with a free shuttle to the inn. Nearby there's the University of Vermont, Shelburne (art) Museum, several downhill ski areas and golf courses, scenic cruises and fishing on Lake Champlain, and Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream Factory (closed on Sunday). Quakertown, Pennsylvania: Cooking at The Inn at Turtle Pond "Your vacation begins with a dinner I prepare for your arrival on Friday evening," chef and host Una Maderson explains. And that's just for starters. Saturday morning, after a breakfast of juice, fruit, yogurt, homemade granola, and quick breads, you roll up your sleeves in her fabulous kitchen, with huge windows overlooking a two-acre lake and 24 acres. Maderson specializes in Mediterranean/Middle Eastern, Asian, and vegetarian foods but will tailor the cooking to her students' needs. "I bought the weekend for my husband as a birthday gift--I just went along and hung out, walking the trails around the lake, and I got to eat the wonderful food," says Kathy Williams of Teays Valley, West Virginia. "Una has a wonderful log house--she and her husband are so interesting and cultured," Williams says, "it was more than my husband and I imagined it could be. I can't wait to go back." "She made me feel a lot more confident as a cook," adds Dean Williams, a land management professional. "I was always intimidated by fresh herbs--how to prepare them and use them. And I never would have considered undertaking puff pastry before. But Una is very patient and knowledgeable," Williams says. Cost: $330 includes two nights at the inn, two days of classes, and all meals. Contact: Turtle Pond, Inc., 210 Axehandle Rd., Quakertown, PA 18951-4904, 215/538-2564, Web address: turtlepondcooking.com/. How to go & What to do: Turtle Pond is 90 miles west of New York City and 45 miles north of Philadelphia; airports include Philadelphia International Airport, 45 minutes away, and Allentown (ABE airport--Allentown, Bethlehem, and Easton), 25 minutes away. Nearby towns offer hot-air ballooning, an antiques center, and the year-round Main Street Theatre. New Hope, about a 20-minute drive east, on the Delaware River, is full of art-and-antiques shops. Doylestown, the county seat, a 25-minute drive south, is home to the James A. Michener Art Museum, the famously eclectic Mercer Museum, and the Moravian Tile Works.

The Arts-and-Crafts Vacation

They resemble resorts, with their outdoor pools and tennis courts, their wooden lodge buildings and country barns, their guests in skimpy sports clothes. But there all likeness ends. Within the barns are lathes and looms, potters' wheels and blacksmith's forge, all heavily in use throughout the day by guests in throes of creation. At a growing number of residential countryside crafts centers, more and more Americans are devoting their vacations to the mastery of a folk manufacture--the ability, say, to make a ladderback chair or an earthenware vase, a hand-bound book or a rough wool cloak. For them, the activity is a rewarding expression of art, a satisfying connection with the past, a deeply pleasurable return to human basics (in a time of high technology), and therefore the best possible use of leisure time. Nine awesomely scenic locations are especially active in the world of arts-and-crafts vacations. Penland, North Carolina: Penland School: Penland School, of Penland, North Carolina, an hour's drive from Asheville, is the big one, a sprawling complex of 41 buildings on 400 acres of Blue Ridge Mountain land. A pioneer in creating new American forms of craft art, it urges its guests to let their imaginations soar and tolerates outlandish experiments. "We blur the overlapping lines between fine and applied arts," says the school's director. The new approach is then applied to all the standard materials--wood, clay, fibers, glass, iron, metals, and paper--and results each week in countless varieties of stunning products emerging from classes taught by eminent figures. Sessions run from mid-March to mid-September, are between one and eight weeks in duration, are open to students of all levels of skill, and average $320 a week, plus room and board fees of $320 (dorms) to $839(double with private bath) per person per week. For more information or reservations, contact Penland School of Crafts, P.O. Box 37, Penland, NC 28765-0037 (phone 828/765-2359, fax 828/765-7389, email office@penland.org, web site penland.org). Snowmass Village, Colorado: Anderson Ranch Arts Center Anderson Ranch at Snowmass Village, Colorado, is a somewhat costlier alternative of equal fame; it's found in the Rockies, ten miles west of Aspen, 160 miles from Denver, at an elevation of 8,200 feet. Many of the nation's most renowned craftspeople--prize winners, manufacturers of crafts, academics in the field--come here each summer (early June to late October) to teach weekend, one-, two- and three-week classes in woodworking and furniture design, ceramics and art history, in addition to courses in photography, printmaking, digital imagery, sculpture and painting. Some have such outstanding reputations that they attract other professionals, who make up a third of some classes otherwise composed of sheer novices--the advantages for these beginners are obvious. Interdisciplinary studies combining people from different fields are especially interesting at this high-quality gathering of leaders in crafts instruction, all in a setting of old ranch buildings refurbished to provide considerable comfort in both lodgings and labs. Tuition, including lab fees, starts at about $500 per week (children's and teen classes are cheaper), to which you add room and board costs of $495 to $1,295 per week, depending on room category. Acommodations range from simple dorm rooms to three-bedroom condos. For further information, contact Anderson Ranch Arts Center, P.O. Box 5598, 5263 Owl Creek Road, Snowmass Village, CO 81615 (phone 970/923-3181 or andersonranch.org). Gatlinburg, Tennessee: Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts Arrowmont, in Gatlinburg, Tennessee, a mile down a scenic road from a main entrance to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, is another nationally known visual arts complex, particularly noted for its instruction in odd new techniques: patination of metal, anodizing of aluminum, granulation of sterling silver, combining "media" on cloth; it is also, according to one faculty member, "the wood-turning capital of America" (and teaches the standard crafts as well). One- and two-week sessions are offered in March, April, June, and July, to persons of varying skills, including those of no previous crafts experience at all. Some students, energized by creative excitement, work up to 15 hours a day in well-equipped workshops or in the 10,000-tome library of arts and crafts. On average, figure on costs of at least $500 a week for everything. For further information, contact Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts, 566 Parkway, Gatlinburg, TN 37738 (phone: 865/436-5860, or arrowmont.org/). Elkins, West Virginia: Augusta Heritage Arts Workshops This workshop held every year at Davis & Elkins College in Elkins, West Virginia, at the edge of the Monongahela National Forest, differs sharply from the others in its emphasis on traditional crafts--not innovative ones--designed to preserve and transmit a proud Appalachian heritage of designs. Accordingly, classes are in such homespun subjects as stonemasonry, quiltmaking, fiddlebow repair, blacksmithing, basketry, and flint knapping. Nevertheless, director Margo Blevin contends that some classes here--like "contemporary quilt design," "create your own weaving"--are moving old-style crafts into the future. The center also has classes on music and dance. There are five separate summer weeks, early-July to mid-August (you can sign up for one or more weeks); tuition averages a low $365 a week; and room and board adds only $295 a week more and is provided in college residence halls and dining rooms. Sign up before April 30th for the best rates, discounted prices for children sharing a room are available. Contact Augusta Heritage Center of Davis & Elkins College, 100 Campus Drive, Elkins, WV 26241 (phone 304/637-1209, email augusta@augustaheritage.com, or augustaheritage.com/). Brasstown, North Carolina: John C. Campbell Folk School John C. Campbell Folk School, in Brasstown, North Carolina, a 380-acre campus nestled between the Smokies and the Blue Ridge Mountains, is still another of those primarily regional schools that seek to instruct in traditional, southern Appalachian crafts, and not in the unrestrained modern approach to the decorative arts. Most courses are confined to such old-world pursuits as spinning, knitting, and quilting, woodcarving and pottery, blacksmithing, enameling, chairbottoming and the like, all heavily functional--the abstract is generally eschewed. Still, the spirit here is dynamic and joyous, and courses (five and six-night programs) are offered year-around (except for occasional holiday weeks), at times when other schools are closed. Tuition fees start at $388 a week, but that charge can rise by another $100 for certain wood-turning and metal-finishing courses. For more information, contact the John C. Campbell Folk School, Brasstown, NC 28902 (phone: 800/FOLKSCH, Web address: folkschool.com). Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: Pendle Hill In a less rural, but equally serene location just 12 miles southwest of Philadelphia, Pendle Hill, a "Quaker-led study center," hosts 12 artistic workshops throughout July and August. On its 23-acre arboretum campus in Wallingford, Pennsylvania, the center mixes its varied curriculum of arts and crafts, ranging from photography to yoga, with a dash of spirituality. The result? Atypical offerings like "Handweaving: A Joyous Meditation," "Painting for Joy," "Clay, Myth, and Fairytale," "Writing for Life," and "Brushes with the Spirit." While it stands apart from other arts and crafts schools in its religious association, the program organizers promise it's strictly non-denominational. And its courses are comparably rigorous, drawing top scholars from across the country to lead the five-day sessions. With room for only 50 guests at the retreat center, programs are limited to 25 or fewer participants, keeping class sizes small. A window-lined art studio is open 24-hours for around-the-clock creation, and is equipped with potter's wheels, weaving looms, wide tables, and an electric kiln. Accommodations are simple, dorm-like rooms (single or double, air-conditioned, but with shared baths) and meals are served family-style in the communal dining room. Workshops are open to all skill levels and room (double), board, and instruction average $465/person. Commuters pay $400 on average for a five-day session, which includes meals. For more information, write or phone Pendle Hill, 338 Plush Mill Road, Wallingford, PA 19086 (phone 800/742-3150, ext. 142 or 610/566-4507). Its Website provides extensive information on the study-center at pendlehill.org/; the summer arts program listings are usually up by early March. Southwestern, Pennsylvania: Touchstone Center for Crafts Situated on 150 acres of wooded grounds, Touchstone Center for Crafts in southwestern Pennsylvania specializes in the centuries-old craft of blacksmithing, but offers the basics too. Students learn to fashion hinges, helmets, and well, nearly anything else they can think of that's made from metal, in the school's new (1999) blacksmithing studio, which includes 12 modern forges and one brick "historic" forge for those interested in traditional methods. Or they work with clay, paint, glass, metal, cameras, or fibers, under the supervised instruction of talented professionals (the school also offers the less-recognized arts such as "journaling," soap and paper-making, and bookbinding). Weekend and weeklong courses run from May to November, with about six hours of class time per day, and studios are open until 11pm, so you can keep working "after-hours." Tuition runs from about $300 to $400 for weeklong programs, but most weigh in around $300; weekend workshops are about half that price. Shop fees will add about $50 extra, with advanced classes and glass workshops running a little more. They also offer a family weekend in May that runs for $175 per adult and $75 for children, including tuition, meals and lodging. Students stay in two and four-person "rustic" cabins (this means no heat, air-conditioning, or bathrooms, but there's a centrally located bathhouse) for between $100 (quad) and $132 (double) per person per week, and tent sites are cheaper yet- just $35. Meals can be purchased for an additional $130/week, and are served cafeteria-style in the school's communal dining hall. And for parents enrolled in the school, children's classes (ages 6 to 12) are also offered. For more information or to make reservations, contact Touchstone Center for Crafts, 1049 Wharton Furnace Road, Farmington, PA 15437, phone 800/721-0177 or 724/329-1370, fax 724/329-1371, or e-mail tcc@hhs.net. View its web site at touchstonecrafts.com/. Layton, New Jersey: Peters Valley Craft Education Center Just a short drive from New York City, but worlds away in ambiance, Peters Valley Craft Education Center in Layton, NJ is set in the middle of the Delaware Watergap on actual National Park grounds. It is a stunning locale and a potent inspiration for the many students who visit this school each summer to test their skills at blacksmithing, ceramics, fiber, fine metals, photography, weaving and wood working. Most participants are amateur artists. As Ken Pierson, Executive Director of Peters Valley explains, "people of all ages come here to find an interesting hobby to dedicate themselves to, or to further explore an art they have already developed an interest in." Classes are held from mid-May to mid-September, with prices ranging from $220 for a two-day course to $425 for a three-day class). Lab fees can run anywhere between $10 to $700 but average around $50. Participants can stay off-campus or in dorms on campus--a shared dorm room costs $35 per night, a youth hostel is $10 a night, and B&B is $45.. For more information, contact Peters Valley Craft Education Center, 19 Kuhn Road, Layton, NJ 07851 (phone 973/948-5200 or learn about the school online at pvcrafts.org). Deer Isle, Maine: Haystack Mountain School of Crafts Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, in Deer Isle, Maine, is the only other northeastern location among the major craft centers, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean from a spectacular wooded slope. It is also the only major center that requires students to send in an application, as well as a $35 nonrefundable fee. Students must be 18 or older to apply. A much-discussed architectural achievement, the school consists of two-dozen shingled structures--some lodgings, some workshops--with high-pitched roofs, all connected by wooden walkways elevated from the ground. Here, from June to September, roughly 80 students at a time, of all ages and degrees of skill, including beginners, come together in successive two- and three-week sessions to study crafts of clay, fibers, glass, graphics, metals, and wood, in studios that never close--they remain open for inspiration around the clock. Tuition is between $655 and $875, and room and board costs range between $280 for a day student, and $2115 for a three-week single room. Apply by April 15 for priority consideration. For more information, contact Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, P.O. Box 518, Deer Isle, ME 04627 (phone 207/348-2306, Web: haystack-mtn.org/). For tours of the studios of noted craftspeople all over the world, contact Craft World Tours, Inc., 6776 Warboys Rd., Byron, NY 14422 (phone 585/548-2667).

Geneological Vacations

A great many persons travel--and travel extensively--to the places of their family's origin, seeking "roots," knowledge of heritage. But most do so independently, visiting city registry offices, parish churches, and the like, without giving advance notice to these record-keepers, and usually simply showing up--in a village of Poland or Germany, a hamlet in Africa, a city of China. Because those visits could have been so greatly aided by expert advice and advance arrangements, it is surprising that so few tour operators are involved in the activity of "genealogy travel." The Specialty Travel Index--which you can access by going to specialtytravel.com--lists five tour companies in the genealogy field, each a specialist with a rather narrow focus. Two operate genealogy tours to Norway, one operates such tours to Ireland, one to the State of Virginia, and one to Poland, Russia and the Ukraine. We know of several others: For African-American travelers Spector Travel of Boston, a 15-year-old firm specializing in African travel, offers "Roots and Culture" tours to Senegal, the Gambia, South Africa, Benin and Cote d'Ivoire which include roundtrip airfare, accommodations and breakfast, transfers three half-day guided tours, and a Juffureh and African naming ceremony. In addition to its prearranged packages, Spector Travel can help you plan a personalized itinerary for your own heritage tour to Africa. For more information, call Spector Travel at 617/351-0111; you can find them on the Web at spectortravel.com. Henderson Travel (phone 301-650-5700 or 800-327-2309, Web: hendersontravel.com), founded in 1957, is the oldest African American-owned travel agency in the U.S. Henderson offers a wide variety of heritage tours to Africa (Senegal, Burkina Faso, South Africa, Ghana, Kenya, the Ivory Coast to list a few), and while many are upscale, some are quite reasonably priced. A seven-day history tour of Senegal, with first class hotels, guided tours, most meals, an excursion to a former slave marketplace, and airfare from New York, starts at $2,090 for certain departure dates. There are several resources for African Americans wishing to learn more about their history in the U.S., and for those simply wishing to travel with other African Americans. The African American Travel Conference (330/337-1116; aatconline.com) has over 1,000 tour operators that are members, many of which are small organizations that specialize solely in heritage travel for African Americans. For those of Jewish heritage For Jewish cultural trips to Morocco, Spain, South Africa and Turkey, contact Heritage Tours of New York (212/206-8400 or 800/378-4555, heritagetoursonline.com). Joel Zack, the company's founder, did post-graduate work studying Moroccan synagogues and the Jewish history of that part of the world. His love of the area's architecture and fascination with its Jewish past led him to create a tour company offering individualized tours for cultural "pilgrims" to the region. (Heritage Tours also has experience arranging group travel, such as synagogue excursions.) Religiously observant Jewish travelers can be fully accommodated on every trip, as Kosher meals are offered and Shabbat travel can be avoided if necessary. Call or visit Heritage Tours' Web site for more information. Jews of Central European heritage look to Routes to Roots, founded by a noted expert in the field, Miriam Weiner, the co-editor of The Encyclopedia of Jewish Genealogy. Miriam and her company offer research and archival services into family histories. Email info@rtrfoundation.org, or go to routestoroots.com for more details. For those whose ancestors came from the Czech Republic and Slovakia Weber Travel Worldwide Travel Service, founded in 1956, specializes in small group tours of the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Guided by Joe Hartzel, President and founder of Czech and Slovak American Genealogical Society, the tours focus on culture as well as cultural history. Along with museum, castle and monastery visits, there are expert lectures on genealogical research, aid for the travelers in charting their own family's history and stopovers in cities and towns, large and small, throughout the region (Prague, Domazlice, Ceske Budejovice, Cesky Kruralov, Karlovy Vary and Telc among others). These 14-day pilgrimages cost $2,839 per person (based on double occupancy) for airfare, airport transfers, lodging, two meals a day, guides and various admission costs. For more information, call Weber Travel at 708/749-1333 or 800/886-7012; you can find the company on the Web at webertravel.com. For Americans with Irish roots As you might guess, Irish Cultural Connections specializes in roots tours to the Emerald Isle. With the proper background information (which you must supply), it promises to connect you with the parishes, towns, churches, tombstones, and homesteads of your ancestors in the counties of Louth, Monaghan, Armagh, Tyrone, Fermanagh, Cavan, and Meath. It will arrange accommodations at affordable prices and airport pickups can be included if booked in advance. Costs are approximately $150 per day land-only, though prices vary a bit depending on your itinerary. Call 011-353-47-86363, e-mail plunkettmckenna@eircom.net, or go to irishculturalconnections.com. We were pleased to discover that the famed Elderhostel now offers several programs in Salt Lake City devoted to ancestral research in Ireland and the British Isles. For those of you unacquainted with it, Elderhostel is the premier educational travel company for adults 55 and older, with over 25 years of experience. In recent years, the tours lasted six nights, at $850. This price includes airfare, accommodation, transfers, all meals, and academic instruction. Elderhostel also provides an introduction to research skills, source info, interpreting collected data, practical archival work and genealogical research. For more information call Elderhostel at 877/426-8056 or visit them on the Web at elderhostel.org. For travelers of Scandinavian descent Finally, Bridge To Sweden is on hand to help those attempting to trace Scandinavian roots. The owners, a Swedish-American couple, attempt to make the process simple for their customers by doing much of the background research themselves. You provide them with the name of your ancestor and the parish from which they came and they organize tours which combine a standard touristic approach to Sweden with individually significant spots (eg. "that farm, where your family lived and the old stone church where your grandparents married"). Prices start at $3,200 for a shared room. Contact Bridge to Sweden, phone 607/786-0857, e-mail mlbratt@bridgetosweden.com for more details. Find information on the Web at bridgetosweden.com. A general geneological resource If you're not interested in touring with a tour company there are also various resources for ambitious travelers to conduct their own personal genealogy tour. Travel Genie, for instance has provided detailed maps for travel and genealogy since 1985. If you are looking for an ancestral location but can't find it on a map, Travel Genie carries detailed sectional maps for Britain, Denmark, Germany, Ireland, Norway, Poland and Sweden. Go to travgenie.com for more details. Also every one interested in genealogy must visit genhomepage.com. This site provides an abundance of links on such topics as how to do genealogical research, genealogy links all over the world, religious genealogy resources, genealogy societies and software. Conducting genealogical research beforehand will allow you to plan fruitful trips to areas of personal genealogical significance.