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Almost as famous for outrageous prices as for haunting beauty, superb museums, and sublime food, with a bit of finessing Paris can also be surprisingly wallet-friendly. Mais oui, you can in fact experience La Ville Lumiere without becoming one of les miserables; with charming hotel rooms for $60, meals to die for at $15, good wine for $2 a bottle, and the bonus of a fantastic exchange rate (hovering around 7 1/2 francs to the dollar), prices haven't been so sane on the Seinein many years. An American in Paris of 15 years' standing, I've pulled together a treasure trove of tips that will ensure that the only thing that will leave you breathless here is the Mona Lisa. Le Metro & More Famous for its art nouveau entrances (survivors include the Place Pigalle and Abbesses stations), the Paris Metro is one of the world's best big-city transit systems. Single tickets are 8F ($1.03), but chop that to 5.5F (71:) by buying a ten-ticket carnet ("kar-nay") for 55F ($7.15). If you're planning some heavy-duty getting-around, consider an unlimited travel pass. On sale at all stations or at the main Paris Tourist Office (see below), "Paris Visite" is good for the Metro, buses, RER regional trains, and local trains for one (55F/$7.15), two (90F/$11.65), three (120F/$15.55), or five (175 F/$22.65) consecutive days; it also carries discounted admission to selected museums. Note: if you're in town for five days and use public transportation four times a day, that adds up to two carnets (110F/$15.80)-cheaper than the five-day pass. Alighting in the City of Light Cheapest (49F/$6.30) and fastest (30 minutes) into central Paris from Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle airport is the RER line B3 train. There's direct access from Terminal 2 - just follow the signs - and a free shuttle bus from Terminal 1. Trains run 17 hours a day and stop at the Gare du Nord and Chatelet-Les Halles on the Right Bank and St-Michel and Denfert-Rochereau on the Left Bank, all with direct connections to the subway system. From Orly airport, hop the 35F ($4.55) Orlybus daily from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. to Denfert-Rochereau, where you can connect with the Metro. Information, s'il vous plait Open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, (11 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Sundays in low season), the Paris Tourist Office at 127 avenue des Champs Elysees (between the George V and Etoile Metro stations) is a fount of free info, including maps, events/exhibition info, and advice from helpful staffers. You can also get in touch by fax at 49-52-53-00 or online at paris-touristoffice.com. Cherchez le Franc Your best currency-exchange option is a Cirrus ATM card from home, since you almost always get a commercial rate of exchange and pay no commission. To change traveler's checks or cash, try Comptoir de Change Saint-Germain (30 rue Gregoire de Tours, 6th arr., Metro: Odeon) on the Left Bank near the Odeon; it's open daily and charges no fee. On the Right Bank, the Comptoir de Change Opera (9 rue Scribe, 9th arr., Metro: Opera) is also fee-free, and open Monday through Saturday. Staying in style Apart from the clean, modern, standardized Ibis chain (more than 20 hotels in central Paris with rooms costing 460F-585F ($43-$70.50) a night; details at 800/221-4542 or ibishotels.com), Paris is truffled with small two-star charmers. My favorites on the Right Bank (prices are for doubles with private bath): Hotel de Lille (8 rue du Pelican, 1st arr., 42-33-33-42; 290F/$37.50), Hotel Tiquetonne (6 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd arr., 42-36-94-58, fax 42-36-02-94; 240F/$31), Hotel de la Herse d'Or (20 rue Saint-Antoine, 4th arr., 48-87-84-09, fax 48-87-94-01; 300F/$39), Hotel Garden (1 rue du General-Blaise, 11th arr., 47-00-57-93, fax 47-00-45-29; 350F/$45.25). On the Left Bank: Les Argonautes (12 rue de la Huchette, 5th arr., 43-54-09-82, fax 44-07-18-84; 310F-460F/$40-$59.50), Grand Hotel Leveque (29 rue Cler, 7th arr., 47-05-49-15, fax 47-50-49-36; 420F/$54.50), Hotel Pasteur (33 rue du Docteur-Roux, 15th arr., 47-83-53-17, fax 45-66-62-39; 370F/$47.85). The digs dealmonger Hotel consolidators are starting to make Euro inroads, too, and while the moniker "Hotel Marketing Services" might not sound particularly French, this seven-year-old service works with 40 small hotels in Paris, booking at a discount of 15 percent off the rack rate (they vary according to the season and hotel, but can run up to 40 percent); you pay HMS, not the hotel. It's best to call at least a week or two in advance, but very good last-minute bargains are also possible. Contact: 42-60-33-73, fax 42-61-49-26, hms-voyages.com. Rock-bottom boarding For the biggest lodgings savings of all, don't forget the pretty decent local "AJ"s (auberges de jeunesse, a.k.a. hostels): AJ Jules-Ferry (8 blvd. Jules-Ferry, 11th arr., 43-57-55-60), AJ Cité-des-Sciences (24 rue des Sept Arpents at rue Jean-Baptiste-Clement, 19th arr., 48-43-24-11) and AJ d'Artagnan (80 rue de Vitruve, 20th arr., 40-32-34-56, fax 40-32-34-55). Beds in dorm-style rooms with shared baths run 115F ($15.50) a night, including breakfast for members of Hostelling International (call 202/783-6161 to join). Nonmember rates are a few dollars more. Your daily bread La baguette - that daily-baked Parisian staff of life - rarely costs more than 3F (about 40:, varying very little in price) and makes fabulous eating, as a sandwich or on its own. On the Left Bank, go to Kayser (8 rue Monge, 5th arr., Metro: Maubert-Mutualite), Jean-Luc Poujauran (20 rue Jean Nicot, 7th arr., Metro: La Tour-Maubourg), and Le Moulin de la Vierge (105 rue Vercingetorix, 14th arr., Metro: Pernety or Plaisance). On the Right Bank: Andre Cleret (11 rue Jean Lantier, 1st arr., Metro: Chatelet), Gosselin (125 rue Saint-Honore, 1st arr., Metro: Louvre-Rivoli), Julien (73 ave. Franklin D. Roosevelt, 8th arr., Metro: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule), and Blondeau (24 rue des Abbesses, 18th arr., Metro: Abbesses). Les cheap picnics Pick up wine, bread, cheese, and cold cuts in inexpensive markets all over town and recreate Manet's Dejeuner sur l'Herbe (minus the naked lady, perhaps) at spots like the lawn on Esplanade des Invalides (7th arr., Metro: Les Invalides), the western tip of the Quai des Orfevres on the Ile-de-la-Cite (1st arr., Metro: Hotel-de-Ville), and the Jardins du Luxembourg (place Edmond Rostand, 6th arr., Metro: Odeon). Top low-cost open-air markets include Marche Belleville, open Tuesdays and Fridays 7 a.m.-1 p.m. (blvd. de Belleville, 20th arr., Metro: Belleville) and Marche d'Aligre (place d'Aligre, 12th arr., Metro: Ledru Rollin), open Monday through Saturday 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m. and 5:30-8:30 p.m. A tad pricier but more central is Marche Maubert, with a location on place Maubert (5th arr., Metro: Maubert-Mutualite) open Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays 8 a.m.-noon; a second branch is open daily from 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 4 p.m.-7 p.m. in the Les Halles area at rue Montorgeuil and rue Rambuteau (1st arr., Metro: Les Halles). The best and most central supermarket branches are Franprix (22 ave. Hoche, 8th arr., Metro: Etoile), Ed L'Epicier (142 rue Montmartre, 2nd arr., Metro: Les Halles), and Atac (9 blvd. des Batignolles, 17th arr., Metro: Place de Clichy). Most Prisunic and Monoprix stores also have good-value grocery sections. The little bus that could Give those expensive sightseeing buses a miss-dozens of public bus routes run through Paris' most beautiful neighborhoods on their way to its most famous sights and museums. The best is line 24, which does a circuit around central Paris, mostly hugging the Seine, from the Gare St-Lazare to the Âcole Veterinaire de Maisons-Alfort. Along the way, you'll cross the Seine six times and pass by place de la Concorde, the Louvre, Pont-Neuf, Notre-Dame, Ile St-Louis, and place St-Michel. You'll then head down boulevard St-Germain and pass the Arab Institute and the Musee d'Orsay. A grand view for zero Forget about the notoriously horrendous lines and prices at the Eiffel Tower; it doesn't cost a centime to head up to the rooftop terrace of La Samaritaine department store (rue de la Monnaie at rue de Rivoli, 1st arr., Metro: Pont-Neuf or Chatelet). Monday through Saturday, you can feast here on one of the prettiest views in town, which takes in the Pont-Neuf, Notre-Dame, the Opera, the Seine, and beaucoup more. See the Seine sagely Many top monuments and museums are along the Seine, which makes the "Batobus" - combining basic transportation with a pleasure cruise - a fun, economical way to do the town from mid-April through early November (minus those irritating multilanguage loudspeakers blaring on the Bateaux-Mouches and other sightseeing boats). Running every 25 minutes from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., the Batobus sells day passes for 65F ($8.50); you can stay on for a round-trip circuit or get on and off as often as you like near the Eiffel Tower, Champs-Elysees, Musee d'Orsay, Louvre, Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Notre-Dame, and the Hotel-de-Ville. Get tickets at any of these stops or any Metro station. Haute cuisine, low Ppices Bread and cold cuts aside, you shouldn't leave Paris without sampling its temples of gastronomie. Five fine picks where a full meal with wine will run you 100 francs ($13) per person or less: in the Marais, Le P'tit Gavroche (15 rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 4th arr., Metro: Hotel-de-Ville; 49F/$6.40); in the hopping Bastille neighborhood, Le Petit Keller (13 bis, rue Keller, 11th arr., Metro: Bastille; 75F/$9.75); Chez Max in the Chatelet-Les Halles area (47 rue Saint-Honore, 1st arr., Metro: Les Halles; 85F/$11); Chartier in Montmartre (7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 9th arr., Metro: Montmartre; 100F/$13); and Chez Germaine in the Faubourg-Saint-Germain neighborhood (30 rue Pierre Leroux, 7th arr., Metro: La Tour-Maubourg; 65F/$8.50). Runway glam If you've always wanted to go to a real live Paris fashion show, both Le Printemps and Galeries Lafayette have free runway shows with live models flaunting the latest from Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and other rag-trade biggies. In the seventh-floor Salon Opera in Galeries Lafayette (40 blvd. Haussmann, 9th arr., Metro: Chausee d'Antin or Havre-Caumartin), shows are Tuesdays at 11 a.m. year-round and Fridays at 2:30 p.m. March to October; reserve with the English-speaking switchboard operator at 48-74-02-30. The seventh-floor auditorium of the nearby Printemps Mode building (64 blvd. Haussmann, 9th arr., Métro: Havre-Caumartin) also hosts shows Tuesdays year-round and Fridays from March to October, both at 10 a.m. and with no reservation required. Literary soirees Several Anglophone bookstores host free English-language readings from visiting and local authors: W.H. Smith (248 rue de Rivoli, 1st arr., Metro: Tuileries or Concorde), Brentano's (37 ave. de l'Opera, 2nd arr., Metro: Palais-Royal), Shakespeare & Co. (37 rue de la Bncherie, 5th arr., Metro: St-Michel), and Village Voice (6 rue Princesse, 6th arr., Metro: Mabillon), which also has free concerts and French-English conversation groups. Get schedules from free broadsheets distributed at the bookstores. Follow them fleas Skip the famous pricy Puces de Saint Ouen flea market at the Porte de Clignancourt, and follow savvy Parisiens to the Porte de Vanves - which many locals call "the real flea market" - for antique cutlery, dishes, vases, books, jewelry, clothing, and more (how about a four-piece set of art deco kitchen canisters for $20?) that are not only bargains but easy to cart home as carry-ons. It's at avenues Marc Sangnier and Georges-Lafenestre in the 14th arrondissement (Metro: Porte de Vanves), open weekends from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musique to your Eears Paris is a music lover's paradise, with regular free concerts, often in some of its most beautiful churches. Examples: religious music Sundays 4:30 p.m. and church-bell concerts Wednesdays 2:30 p.m. at the Eglise Saint-Germain-L'Auxerrois (2 place du Louvre, 1st arr., Métro: Louvre); religious music Tuesdays 12:30 p.m., often with artists from the Music Conservatory of Paris and the Opera, at Eglise Saint-Roch (24 rue Saint Roch, 1st arr., Metro: Pyramides); and classical music Saturdays 9 p.m. and Sundays 4 p.m. at Eglise Saint-Merri (76 rue de la Verrerie, 4th arr., Metro: Hotel-de-Ville). Allo, allo For phoning home, a prepaid carte telephonique (phone card) for direct dialing to the U.S. from a France Telecom booth is the cheapest option, especially 7 p.m. to 8 a.m. weekdays and all weekend. Sold at tabac (tobacco) shops and post offices, the cards contain 50 units at 49F ($6.40) for about 15 minutes' off-peak talk time or 120 units at 96F ($12.25) for 40 minutes. For a 15 percent discount off these prices, buy before your trip from francetelecom.na.com. Get on the net An even cheaper way to stay in touch, of course, is via e-mail. A half-hour online costs 30F ($3.90) at the cafe Orbital Network, in the sixth arrondissement at 12 rue des Medicis (Metro: Odeon). And while here, you can save the cost of an airmail stamp by sending "e-postcards" for free from Web sites like paris-touristoffice.com or paris.org/postcards. Do-it-yourself day trips There's no sense in spending $65 or more on a canned bus tour to Versailles or Chartres when you can hop the train yourself. Versailles is an easy 30-minute ride for 30F ($3.90) round-trip on the RER line C5 to Versailles-Rive Gauche station; then take a right and walk ten minutes to the Sun King's famous palace. And because the main pleasure of visiting Versailles is its magnificent (and free) gardens, you could even get away without dropping another 46F to see an interior that's largely empty (though admission's free on the first Sunday of the month November through March). The local tourist office is at 2 bis avenue de Paris (39-24-88-88, fax 39-24-88-89). Chartres, meanwhile, is about an hour from Paris by regular train from the Gare Montparnasse (260F/$34 round-trip); upon arrival, the spectacular cathedral is an easy ten-minute stroll from the station. Admission is free, but the fascinating tour offered by Malcolm Miller is well worth 40F ($5.25). Times: noon and 2:45 p.m. Monday-Saturday, from Easter to mid-November; tel. 37-28-15-58. Cheap chic Even if the heart is willing but the wallet is weak, a chichi little je ne sais quoi by a couture designer is far from out of the question. Check out the Mouton a Cinq Pattes boutiques on rue Saint Placide (6th arr., Metro: Sevres-Babylone or Saint-Placide), for men (No. 48), women (No. 8), and children (No. 10); they carry a fabulous designer selection at discounts of as much as 30 to 50 percent. The rue Alesia in the 14th arrondissement (Metro: Alesia) is also great for marked-down female fashion; among its many worthwhile boutiques are Fabrice Karel (No. 105), Cacharel Stock (No. 114), Zapa Stock (No. 82), and SR Store (No. 64); this last is the Sonia Rykiel outlet, selling last season's collection at half-off. For excellent buys on brand-name perfume, try Catherine (7 rue de Castiglione, 1st arr., Metro: Pyramides) or Parfumerie Kleber (85 avenue Kleber, 16th arr., Metro: Trocaddro), with discounts of up to 40 percent off France's most renowned odors. Museum musts The "Carte Musees et Monuments" is a great buy if you're planning on visiting at least four or five museums or sights - and also lets you bypass long ticket lines. It costs 80F ($10.35) for one day, 160F ($20.75) for three days, and 240F ($31) for five days - and yes, the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, Musee Picasso, Centre Pompidou, and Arc de Triomphe are all included. Pick it up at any of the above, the tourist office, or any Metro station - or even before you leave, through ticketsto.com. Oh, and don't forget that the Louvre and Orsay are free on the first Sunday of every month. Department store finds Monoprix is a clean, well-run chain of discount department stores found all over Paris and a budget traveler's best ami. Shop for a picnic, buy postcards (at 2F/27[cents], cheaper here than elsewhere), pick up the odd sundry you forgot or used up, and hunt for real-life French souvenirs. A bar of scented Mont Saint Michel soap goes for only 8F ($1.10), for example, while high-quality Bourjois makeup - made in the same factory that produces Chanel cosmetics - goes for vastly less than designer counterparts (a lipstick runs 29F/$3.95). Most Monoprixs also stock souvenirs like scarves, Paris-labeled T-shirts (both 39F/$5.30), and tote bags (59F/$8), and for 12F ($1.65) you can pick up "Le Petit Camembert" cheese that will drive gourmet friends back home into ecstasy or a bottle of Corbieres red wine for only 14F ($1.90). Strategically located branches on the Right Bank: 21 avenue de l'Opera (1st arr., Metro: Palais Royal) and 52 rue la Fontaine (9th arr.; Metro: Pigalle); on the Left Bank: 50 rue de Rennes (6th arr., Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Pres) and 15 rue de la Convention (15th arr., Metro: Convention). Grape expectations You can find fine table wines for $2 a bottle and less all over Paris. The Nicolas chain of wine stores carries a special selection of vins du pays (country wines) under the heading of "Les Petites Recoltes," ranging from a pleasant Syrah from the Ardeche for 14F ($1.80) to easy-drinking whites from Gascony for 12F ($1.55). The most central of Nicolas' 70 stores on the Left Bank: 189 rue Saint-Honore (1st arr.), 35 rue Rambuteau (4th arr.); on the Right Bank, 31 place de la Madeleine (8th arr.), 5 rue Monge (5th arr.), 13 rue de Buci (6th arr.), and 34 avenue Bosquet (7th arr.). Monoprix and Prisunic are also good bets for inexpensive wines, as are the supermarket chains. One caveat: avoid the dirt-cheap "La Petite Villageoise" wines in plastic bottles; it's rough stuff, used by the French solely for cooking. Deals du cinema On any given night, some hundred films - often in "V.O." (their original language) - are playing, and many theaters have reduced ticket prices on Mondays and Wednesdays. So not only can you catch a lot of small British, Australian, and subtitled European flicks that never make it to the U.S. (or the latest French-language hit), but even les blockbusters americains for less than you might pay at home. Generally, the cheapest theaters are found in the Latin Quarter (5th and 6th arrondissements), charging around 30F ($3.90); the famous Cinematheque Franaaise (Palais de Chaillot, 7 avenue Albert-de-Mun, 16th arr., Metro: Trocadero) is also worth checking out, with three screens showing classics, rare films, and retrospectives for an average of 29F ($3.75). To find out what's playing everywhere, spend 2F (25[cents]) for the weekly Pariscope (pariscope.fr); it's in French but has an eight-page English-language supplement, "Paris Time Out," which explains how to read the listings.

What a mixed-up town is my L.A.! It's frustrating but delightful, traffic-clogged but blessed with beautiful beaches, polluted but enjoying 329 days of sunshine a year. And amidst its affluence-the awesome shops of Rodeo Drive, the palm-lined boulevards of Beverly Hills-are bargains, remarkable bargains. Here are the money-saving tactics, programs, and products known to struggling young actors, students, and other price-conscious Angelenos: 1. Pass it The valuable Hollywood CityPass ($69, citypass.com) grants admission to five big attractions (including Universal Studios and a guided driving tour of stars' homes) for a savings of almost $50. For other free information, maps, and recommendations, contact the visitors bureaus (L.A.: 800/228-2452, lacvb.com; Santa Monica: 800/544-5319, santamonica.com). 2. Freeway of love You don't always have to drive. Although limited, the new Red Line subway (fares starting at $1.35) is great for shuttling to Hollywood or Universal City. You can ride free on the subway by joining the two-hour guided art tours of select stations (213/922-4278, mta.net). Or take a regular MTA bus for as little as $1.35, or the famous Big Blue Bus in Santa Monica for 75> (310/451-5444, bigbluebus.com). 3. My city has fleas For $7 spend the second Sunday of the month at the budget emporium to top all others-the mind-blowing Rose Bowl Flea Market (1001 Rose Bowl Dr., Pasadena, 323/560-7469, rgcshows.com). Scour miles of jewels and junk in search of anything from a velvet Elvis painting to antique Victrolas. 4. Summer jazz makes me feel fine Free musical offerings abound in summer, including jazz on Fridays and chamber music on Sundays at the L.A. County Museum of Art (5905 Wilshire Blvd., 323/857-6000, lacma.org); jazz Friday evenings at UCLA's Hammer Museum (10899 Wilshire Blvd., 310/443-7000, hammer.ucla.edu); concerts on Fridays and karaoke on Saturdays at the Farmer's Market (6333 W. Third St., 323/933-9211, farmersmarketla.com); and the Twilight Dance Series every Thursday night in summer on the Santa Monica Pier (Ocean Ave. and Colorado Blvd., 310/458-8900, twilightdance.org). 5. Getty-up The new, not-to-be-missed Getty Museum (1200 Getty Center Dr., 310/440-7300, getty.edu) is a multimillion-dollar, ultramodern museum complex overlooking the 405 freeway and admission is absolutely free (except for a $5 parking fee, for which you'll need a reservation). The Getty has become one of America's premier museums. UCLA's Hammer Museum (see above), filled with works by Van Gogh, Chagall, and Monet, is free every Thursday. Pasadena's Norton Simon Museum (411 W. Colorado Blvd., 626/449-6840, nortonsimon.org) will run you only $6. The Museum of Tolerance (9786 W. Pico Blvd., 310/553-8403, museumoftolerance.com), which explores the inhumanity of the Holocaust, charges $10, but the fee is well worth such a stirring experience. 6. Shopper's paradise Canvass some of the city's enclaves to discover hidden treasures, trendy boutiques, and consignment shops: earthy Los Feliz at the base of the Hollywood Hills; soulful Silver Lake; Beverly Hills' posh Rodeo Drive; and the touristy Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica. The L.A. Fashion District is located downtown on and around Los Angeles Street and generally opens to the public for designer sample sales (50 to 80 percent off retail) on the last Friday of the month from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (cash only; 213/630-3600, fashiondistrict.org/shoppinginformation.html). Bring your own shopping bag, arrive early, and park in the lot on Main Street. 7. The city's a stage In L.A., theater lives in film's shadow, but unfairly so. There's always a slew of small stage productions for no charge or for as little as $5 listed in the free LA Weekly (laweekly.com). Major venues offer last-minute tickets, including the Geffen Playhouse (10886 Le Conte Ave., 310/208-5454, geffenplayhouse.com), with $15 seats one hour before curtain; and the Mark Taper Forum and Ahmanson Theatre (at the Music Center, 135 N. Grand Ave., 213/628-2772, taperahmanson.com), both with $12 tickets available two hours before showtime (limited nights, cash only, two tickets per customer). Both also offer one "pay what you can" day for each run; call ahead to determine dates. 8. Life's a bowl The venerable Hollywood Bowl (2301 N. Highland Ave., 323/850-2000, hollywoodbowl.com), nestled in the hills, has been an L.A. staple for more than 80 years. Every summer, thousands of locals bring picnic dinners into this outdoor amphitheater, but few visitors realize that seats can be had for as little as $1 during the week and $3 on weekends for big-name entertainment. 9. Deals for the fans Grab a seat in the outfield pavilion at Dodger Stadium for just $6 (1000 Elysian Park Ave., 323/224-1448, dodgers.com). Meanwhile, the new Staples Center charges as little as $10 for the Clippers and $22.50 for Kings hockey (1111 S. Figueroa St., 213/742-7340, staplescenter.com). 10. Free TV tapings Sitcoms, talk shows, and game shows want you! This is Hollywood, after all, home of the largest concentration of TV broadcasts in the world. Tapings provide a rare peek into the inner workings of "the industry," as showbiz is called out here. Even for top-rated shows, seats are completely free, but tickets don't guarantee entry: it's first come, first seated (818/753-3470, tvtickets.com). 11. Dead but not forgotten For the celeb macabre, check out the real Hollywood haunts, where the stars rest in peace. Burbank's Forest Lawn Hollywood Hills (6300 Forest Lawn Dr.) hosts Lucille Ball, Bette Davis, and Liberace; Marilyn Monroe, Natalie Wood, and Burt Lancaster are interred at Westwood Village Memorial Park (1218 Glendon Ave.); and the remains of Jayne Mansfield, Rudolph Valentino, and the notorious "Bugsy" Siegel are at Hollywood Forever Memorial Park (6000 Santa Monica Blvd.). 12. Discount Disney Amusement park deals are rare, but check with your employer's human resources department, which may have access to them. Or make nice-nice with a Californian, as residents can often get discounted rates at Disneyland (1313 Harbor Blvd., Anaheim, 714/781-4565, disneylandresort.com), Knott's Berry Farm (8039 Beach Blvd., Buena Park, 714/220-5200, knotts.com), and Universal Studios Hollywood (100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800/864-8377, universalstudios.com). 13. More discounts Disneyland offers multiday discounts and after 4 p.m., Knott's halves admission. Finally, CityPass (citypass.com) offers dynamite $166 ($127 kids) passes that cover the Disney parks, Knott's, SeaWorld Adventure Park, and the San Diego Zoo. 14. Get funky by the sea Eclectic Venice Beach and its upscale neighbor, Santa Monica, are the most entertaining and accessible public beaches in L.A., with hawkers, bodybuilders, sidewalk shows, and an array of characters. Metered or free parking is usually available a few blocks away (arrive early), and bicycle and in-line skate rentals start at $6. 15. Asian escapes Sadly, most tourists never discover the streets of Chinatown and Little Tokyo. The "Garden in the Sky" on the third floor of the New Otani Hotel (120 S. Los Angeles St., 213/629-1200), a half-acre version of the historic 400-year-old garden in Tokyo's New Otani, provides much-needed zen relaxation. Try meditating in the hard-to-find James Irvine Garden, tucked under the Japanese American Cultural & Community Center (244 S. San Pedro St., 213/628-2725). Or roam Chinatown for exotic treats and collectibles. 16. Worldly flavors L.A.'s melting pot cooks up some of the best food this side of Tokyo or Tijuana. For Asian fare, try all-you-can-eat sushi and shabu-shabu at Todai (12400 Wilshire Blvd., 310/979-8655) for $14.95 weekdays, $15.95 weekends (lunch $12.95); Sawtelle Kitchen (2024 Sawtelle Blvd., 310/445-9288) for fabulous fish with Japanese flair ($9.95 to $11.95); and Ramenya (11555 W. Olympic Blvd., 310/575-9337) for steaming masses of ramen noodles for $5.75. Yang Chow (819 N. Broadway, Chinatown, 213/625-0811) is known for its $12.75 "slippery shrimp." Latin American contributions include $8.95 Cuban roasted garlic chicken or pork with mounds of rice, beans, and plantains at Versailles (1415 S. La Cienega Blvd., 310/289-0392); and Mexican grub with L.A.'s best homemade tortillas at La Caba a in Venice (738 Rose Ave., 310/392-6161) starting at $8.60. 17. Pillow talk Beverly Laurel Motor Hotel (8018 Beverly Blvd., 323/651-2441; $84/double) is hip, central, and a good value. Casa Malibu Motel (22752 Pacific Coast Hwy., 310/456-2219; $90/double) is an oceanfront address that won't soak you. For ultrabudget, Hostelling International Santa Monica (1436 Second St., 310/393-9913, hiayh.org; from $30 per person) is beside both the beach and Santa Monica's trendy promenade. 18. Seaside galleries Santa Monica's Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave., 310/829-5854, bergamotstation.com) is a free collection of small galleries, and the Eames Office Gallery (2665 Main St., 310/396-4677, eamesoffice.com) is the world's most important display of Eames furniture. 19. Fancy footwork The "beautiful people" stay fit on a multitude of hiking trails, including those in expansive Griffith Park (America's largest urban park). Some trails have close-up views of the beloved Hollywood sign-you'll find trail maps at cityofla.org/rap/grifmet/griffith.htm. The Santa Monica Mountains, including Will Rogers State Park and Runyon Canyon, are also local hiking favorites. 20. Unwinding in Santa Monica Students at the Shiatsu Massage School of California (2309 Main St., 310/396-4877, shiatsumassageschool.com) provide one-hour rubdowns for a measly $30-less than half the norm. Or stretch body and dollar at the pay-what-you-can Power Yoga Center (522 Santa Monica Blvd., 310/281-1170, suggested: $10).

Amsterdam is a little city with a big reputation. The pulsating heart of the Netherlands, the 'Venice of the North' -- with its beautiful canals and rich history -- is an utterly unique travel destination. As well as being home to the world-famous Anne Frank House and Van Gogh Museum, it's renowned across the planet for its remarkably liberal attitudes. Both Brad Pitt and David Bowie were so charmed by the city that they bought houses here -- and its been featured in movies from Hitchcock's "Foreign Correspondent" (1940) to Bond movie "Diamonds are Forever" (1971) and, more recently, Steven Soderbergh's "Ocean's Twelve" (2004). One of the world's best kept secrets. Amsterdam resident and writer Pip Farquharson will answer your travel questions Tuesday, April 5, at 12pm EST. Pip Farquharson twirled into the world during the Swinging Sixties in Southampton, England (where Titanic left on her fateful maiden voyage over half-a-century earlier...). She spent her formative years in Africa and Scotland, before returning to her homeland to get an education. A partied-out 20-something, she emerged from university with a degree in animation -- and no idea what to do. So, like any sensible person, she went on holiday! She left for two weeks in Amsterdam, fell in love with it -- and never came back. She's had a love affair with the city for more than 13 years. She works as a freelance writer and has contributed to various travel guides such as Time Out, Dorling Kindersley and Virgin; written about the arts for the Financieele Dagblad (Financial Times) and Holland Herald (KLM's inflight magazine); and consulted on TV documentaries for the BBC, MTV and Lonely Planet. She also deejays and has her own website on her beloved city -- created for discerning travellers and 'Amsterdwellers' -- at underwateramsterdam.com/ _______________________ Pip Farquharson: Hello from Amsterdam I'm now online to take some of your questions... PiP _______________________ Towson, MD: What time of the year is considered "off-seaon" in Amsterdam? Also, what is the best time of year to visit weather wise? Pip Farquharson: I never really see Amsterdam as having an off-season as there's always so much to do all year round! I guess though I would avoid January and February as it can be quite cold. Though that said it was at the beginning of March - very unusually - that we just had a huge snowstorm! The summer months here are June, July and August but the city can be hot and crowded and terraces and parks full. I always think Spring is the best time of year to visit (bright sun, not too hot, there aren't the crowds and the city is just starting to come aliveÉ). Or the Fall. _______________________ Portland, OR: What is the name of the great beer store right off the Dam Square and do you know if they have a website? Pip Farquharson: Know it. Love it. It's De Bierkoning debierkoning.nl/You might also want to check out Brouwerij 't IJ (Funenkade 7) when you're next over (a micro-brewery nextdoor to a windmill in the east of the city) which makes some fantastic beer. Their website is hrouwerijhetij.nl/ _______________________ Tacoma, WW: We're planning a trip to Amsterdam with our two 17 year olds (one boy, one girl). They are both musicians, with eclectic tastes. Question #1: What are the age limits in music clubs in Amsterdam? Question #2: Do you have any suggestions for particular clubs? They are more interested in an intimate club experience as opposed to the Big-Name concerts at very large venues. For example, they like: Singer-songwriter emo, Speed Metal, Progressive Rock, Jazz, Fusion-whatever Pretty much all they don't like is Rap and most hip-hop. Thanks for your help! Pip Farquharson: Firstly, I'm so with them on the rap and hip-hop ;-) Anyway, to answer Question #1: you're in luck! The age limits in music venues is 16 for concerts and 18 for night programme (parties etc). As well as being intimate, two of the best venues offering a great selection of international acts (such as Black Eyed Peas, Suzanne Vega, Jill Scott, as well as more alternative bands like 50 Foot Wave), are also located within a minute's walk from each other in the center of town (Leidseplein). They are the Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a) and Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8). Additionally, a brand new club - Sugar Factory (Lijbaansgracht 238) - opened at the beginning of April which has a good selection of alternative and local bands in its programming. Keep an eye out for Amsterdam's The Jack Stafford Foundation (they're going to be big). The Sugar Factory is directly opposite the Melkweg so all very convenient... What I might also suggest is the new location of the world-famous jazz venue Bimhuis (Piet Heinkade 3) which is at a beautiful new location on the waterfront, just east of Centraal Station. Here's their websites: httpweg.nl/httpdiso.nl/httprfactory.nl/httpuis.nl/Enjoy your trip! Amsterdam's a wonderful destination for families with teenagers. _______________________ Boscobel, WI: How can I go about moving to and living in Amsterdam? I am an American citizen Pip Farquharson: I think it can be quite a complicated process unless you have a job to go to but I'm not American so I don't know the details. Best to look at Expatica.com expatica.com/ which has a huge resource for people in your position. Certainly, you could meet people in the forums there who have made the move across the pond and ask them their experiences. Good luck! It's a beautiful city to live in! _______________________ Philadelphia, PA: Hi Pip. What's the scene for graphics employment presently there? I see all of these seminars (Flash Forward, XML, etc.) located in Amsterdam. Are there many jobs there now? How 'bout for US citizens? Any tips for job-getting strategies or current technologies sought after? Thanks so much. Pip Farquharson: Hi there... It's true, Amsterdam (and the Netherlands) are very advanced in graphics and such technologies. The city was, I believe, the first in the world to have its own internet (De Digitale Stad). I don't know about the current job climate concerning Graphics (even though I have BA Hons degree in Graphics!) but I would just do Google searches for individual companies and see what they have on their websites. There's quite a few of the best advertising agencies here too - such as Wieden & Kennedy, Kessels Kramer, Strawberry Frog etc - so they might be worth exploring. Good luck! _______________________ Concord, OH: Is the airline Transavia, which flies from Amsterdam to Verona, Italy an established, reliable airline, in good financial standing? I am looking for an economical flight and found through a Budget Travel article which gave a website on low-cost airlines in Europe. Is it comparable to perhaps Airtran or Southwest which flies in the states? Don't want to get stranded while I am over in Amsterdam without transportation to Verona. Is it safe to book on the web? Pip Farquharson: I can't predict the economical future but to the best of my knowledge Transavia are an established and reliable Dutch airline. I've flown with them before. I can't say how it compares to Airtran or Southwest as I've never been to the States - but don't worry you won't be stranded in Amsterdam! As for booking online. I haven't booked with Transavia (as they don't go London Gatwick where I often go), but I book regularly with British Airways and find it's very secure to do so online. Airlines tend to have very secure methods of payment on their websites. It's only extremely rarely things go wrong. Just make sure you receive confirmation of your booking which should be pretty instantaneous. _______________________ Allison Park, PA: My mother and I are taking a cruise of Europe in June and one port is Amsterdam. How safe is the city to explore on our own? Would we be better off staying with a tour? Thanks!! Pip Farquharson: How lovely. And you'll be arriving in the heart of the Eastern Docklands. Right by your berth is the new Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ (programming all sorts of music from minimalist to classical) and the world famous jazz venue Bimhuis, as well as 'Naked Chef' Jamie Oliver's restaurant Fifteen... Just a short walk away is the Stedelijk Museum of Modern art (cafe-restaurant 11 at the top has simply fantastic views across the city). Also within five or ten minutes walk you will be in the heart of Amsterdam. I wouldn't be concerned about safety. It is a safe city. A few people have sent questions about that so I will answer that more fully a little later. Bon voyage! _______________________ Chandler, AZ: Are you familiar with other Netherlands cities, such as Eindhoven? My husband has a job opportunity there but I know nothing about it and would like to hear about its pros and cons. I would like to hear how it compares to other European cities (I have traveled in Italy). Would it be a good place to live for a year? Thanks for any info. Pip Farquharson: I'm not that familiar with Eindhoven (home to electrical giants Philips) but I don't think it's one of the most interesting or charming cities in the Netherlands - certainly compared to Amsterdam, Utrecht, Rotterdam or Maastricht etc. That said, the Netherlands is so small that if your husband did relocate there, it's not far from those cities so I think it would actually be a great experience. A year isn't long at all. You could also try posting at the forums at Expatica.com htpatica.com/ whose site is aimed at expats who will have experienced the same dilemmas about relocation to the Netherlands, including Eindhoven. Go for it! _______________________ Anonymous: I will be in Amsterdam on May 21st. Are there any big tulip/flower festival in the area that weekend? Thanks. Pip Farquharson: Oh. What bad timing. THE tulip event of the year is Keukenhof, stunning multi-coloured tulip fields, but it closes on May 20th! Perhaps console yourself with the Singel Flower Market (a floating flower market in the center of town). Sorry. _______________________ NC: Dear Pip, are there any dangerous spots in Amsterdam that I should avoid? Pip Farquharson: This is also for Bloomfield Hills, MI and others who have asked about safety in Amsterdam... After Theo van Gogh's assasination last year, I know that people around the world have been worrying about Amsterdam being a safe destination. However, concerning personal safety - and as a woman - I feel very safe in the city. There aren't really any 'dangerous spots' as such apart from the obvious - i.e. Centraal Station (the city's train depot) late at night. And the Rembrandtplein (Rembrandt Square) can get quite rowdy particularly at night on weekends. The Red Light District does of course have its fair share of unsavoury characters - particularly along the Zeedijk street where junkies tend to amass in small groups. But I wouldn't say it was 'dangerous'. There's good police visibility here and I would simply advise common sense i.e. if a junkie talks to you just ignore them - don't engage in conversation. Take care if walking around there in the early hours of the morning and don't make it too obvious you're a tourist if you can. I think the biggest threat you might have in Amsterdam is pickpockets. I know it's always said but really keep your personal possessions secure and hidden (especially on trams!). And if you use taxis dial 677-7777 for a reputable licensed firm. _______________________ Chicago, IL: I will be travelling in the next month and will be stopping in Maastricht after Amsterdam. I haven't been able to find much info on Maastricht, can you help? Pip Farquharson: This is the official website of the tourist office (VVV) in Maastricht... vvvmaastricht.nl/ _______________________ Safety Harbor, FL: Hi, 3 questions: What is the best time of day to visit Keukenhof? Is it an all-day affair or can you do it in a half-day or so? Are there currently any major tram lines down due to construction? Thanks Pip Farquharson: Unless you're a morning person (I'm not) I would visit in the afternoon. You can do it in one afternoon. As for trams. There are a few major tram line alterations while the city is being dug up to make way for a new metro line. Currently it's mostly in De Pijp area. I would check the city's transport sight GVB at hvb.nl/ for news of individual lines. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Everything's pretty much within walking distance... _______________________ Santa Fe, NM: Hi, If you only had 4 days to spend in Amsterdam, What/where would you be sure to do see or go? Thanks Pip Farquharson: Also to: Washington, DC: What sites or itinerary would you recommend during a 2 day visit? St. Pete, FL: We are going to be in Amsterdam with 2 other couples April 23 to 28th. What are the top 3 off the beaten path things you would suggest we do? I would definitely go to the obvious - the Anne Frank House, Rijksmuseum (for the old Dutch masters) and Van Gogh Museum (which currently has a superb Egon Schiele retrospective until 19 June 2005). Additionally, perhaps check out one of the city's unique 'hidden churches' (these are churches that were secretly built when Catholic worship was banned in the 17th century). The two best examples are the Begijnhof on the Spui (in a house within a 'hidden' garden) and Amstelkring, a church in an attic at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 (within the Red Light District). I would also take a boat tour of the canals and just soak up Amsterdam by walking around in the old center and along the canals and visiting some of its more unique bars and sights. I have a list of my favourite places in Amsterdam in the Forum at http:wateramsterdam.com/ (see UnderwaterAmsterdam News) which you may find helpful... _______________________ Philadelphia, PA: We will be traveling to Amsterdam on May 31 and will spend two days there. We've not booked hotel yet as I don't know what area we should stay. We'd like something reasonably priced and centrally located. Any suggestions on where to stay and a suggested itinerary? Pip Farquharson: Also to all the people who are asking me questions about hotels: May 31 is a national holiday here so I would book that hotel fairly soon! As for which area to stay in... What a lot of people don't realise until they get here is that Amsterdam is actually quite a small place - about a tenth of the size of London. So, pretty much anywhere within the center - really IS in the center and never to far from anything. Most of the sites you'd want to see are no more than 30 minutes walk from anywhere in the center. I always find it hard when people ask for hotel suggestions as I never stay in them but there are plenty of hotels in the center general guidelines would be to try and aim for a hotel on a canal and, if possible, ask for a room with a view. You can check out details of individual hotels to suit at the various online hotel bookings websites. And if possible, try and find a map of Amsterdam online so you can refer to it when making a booking: htsterdam.info/ have maps on their site. And if you find one you like and want to run it by me before booking just contact me in the Forum at htderwateramsterdam.com/ _______________________ New York, NY: I'm going to be in Amsterdam for three days the last week in April, to go see the tulips and catch some of the party leading up to the Queen's birthday. The group I'm traveling with have all been to Amsterdam before and seen the essentials. What kind of weather can I expect? And what special thing should I try to squeeze in? Pip Farquharson: The weather in Amsterdam is always a little unpredictable to say the least. For the Queen's Birthday (or Queen's Day as it's called here), this year celebrating her 25 year jubilee) it could be either sunny or raining! It was sunny last year - around 17C (64F). The year before it was 10C (50F). Whatever the weather, your spirits won't be dampened as Queen's Day celebrations really are pretty incredible on first experience. It's like one huge - orange coloured - street party all across the city (orange is the country's national colour). About a million people come into Amsterdam for the event (which is larger than the actual population itself to give you an idea). And the special thing I suggest you try and squeeze in is a boat tour of the city (see also above to reply to earlier post about things to do). As for the tulips check out Keukenhof's website at httpenhof.nl/ _______________________ Andover, MN: No question, but a comment: I just returned from a 2 week high school trip to Europe including 2 days in Amsterdam at the main square (dam?). Although I was very aprehensive as a chaperone, I was pleasantly surprised by the experience. We had 30+ high school students who had plenty of free time that faired well in seeing what they wanted and arriving at our meeting places on time. It is a very beautiful city with lots of great shopping, scenery and cultural experiences. Pip Farquharson: That's great to hear... Thanks! It is an often overlooked European destination, compared to Paris or London, for example. _______________________ West Palm Beach, FL : Where do you recommend a Budget Traveler to stay in Amsterdam? Pip Farquharson: For something a little unusual and convenient, I would suggest the Amstel Botel (a hotel on a boat moored right handily by Centraal Station at Oosterdokskade 2-4, +31 20 626 4274). Definitely ask for a room with a view and you will be overlooking a lovely little dock with charming canal boats. Additionally, it's by the old center of town. Near the Leidseplein is the Hans Brinker Budget Hotel (Kerkstraat 136-8) which has a bar and restaurant and is popular with younger travellers.And Winston Hotel (Warmoesstraat 129, htnston.nl/) is a great budget hotel. On the edge of the Red Light District and on a street with some great bars, restaurants and cafes, it's also an 'art hotel' (all rooms are individually designed) and has a cool live music and club venue attached. _______________________ Tallahassee, FL: I will be visiting Amsterdam next month. I am a college student on a serious budget. What are some fun things to do in the city that are free or pretty cheap? Pip Farquharson: I would get hold of a copy of Get Lost! The Cool Guide to Amsterdam. It's aimed at budget travellers and has some great tips (and recommendations of freebies). It's written by a lovely Canadian guy called Joe Pauker who gives a very personal take on places in the city. The website is www.xs4all.nl/~getlost/ _______________________ Clifton NJ: In Amsterdam, everyone's English is so perfect. Is it even worth it to try some Dutch words, or is it a waste of time? Pip Farquharson: On one hand, it's polite to talk a few words of the language. However, as soon as the Dutch hear any trace of your accent, they will just start talking back to you in English. So, unless you're here for any length of time I wouldn't really bother. It's a bit of an ongoing battle for foreigners living here. Some of the Dutch really complain if you don't speak their language yet they still insist on talking back to you in English - even if they've understood what you've said in Dutch. _______________________ Phoenix, AZ: Pip, I heard that they are looking at making marijuana illegal in Amsterdamn? Won't this hurt your economy, or do you think you would still get an abundance of tourists? Pip Farquharson: There's always stories like that coming out now and again but I don't think they'll ever make it illegal. Mostly because it WOULD hurt the Dutch economy! Personally, I think the way they have decriminalised marijuana and handle the sale of it via coffeeshops is very responsible. It's like the way the French introduce wine to children at a young age so they don't turn into a nation of alcoholics. Also, if it's readily available it does haven't that 'we're doing something naughty' factor and to be honest, when it's there on your doorstep you just get bored of it after a while... Personally, I think alchohol is far more harmful than marijuana. _______________________ Philly, PA: Hi again, Pip. Thanks for your answer to my graphics question. Could you speak to the current influences bearing on your music? I mean, what are your interests lately? Are there any trends that you see developing? Do you see a positive direction happening in peoples' home studio music creation? Have a nice year, Pip. Pip Farquharson: Just quickly, one band that are based in Amsterdam that I'm very excited about are The Jack Stafford Foundation, fronted by a British guy. jackstafford.co.uk/ _______________________ Fort Myers, FL: We are going to Europe for 2 weeks next month and have a 3 day lay over in Amsterdam. We have reservations at a hotel near Centraal Station and we're considering taking the train in from the airport but were concerned about handling several larger pieces of luggage on to the train. Should we consider alternate transport? Pip Farquharson: The railway station is within Schiphol Airport and it has moving esalators going down onto the platforms. However, you could have problems when you get to Amsterdam's Centraal Station where there are no luggage trolleys for security reason. One of you will probably have to go and find a portier to help. Alternatively you could take a taxi (about 20 mins into Amsterdam), costs about 45 euros or, I believe, there's a bus that runs to the major hotels in Amsterdam which is free or very cheap. Look at the website of Schiphol as it might have some information or do a Google search hchiphol.nl/Happy hauling! _______________________ Tacoma, WA: Follow up to my age/club question. What is the drinking (legal!) age in Amsterdam? What is the coffeeshop (illegal! sort of) age in Amsterdam? Here's a more pedestrian question. If you rent a bike in Amsterdam, do you need to bring your own bike lock, or will they provide one? That's more of a cyclical question than a pedestrian one, but hey. Final Question: Do you have any reservations about a couple of pretty street-wise, well traveled 17-year-old kids (1 male, 1 female) crusing around Amsterdam on their own? At night? Around clubs? Pip Farquharson: I think the legal drinking age is 18 but don't quote me on that... I've never had to think about it... Coffeeshops you do have to be over 18! But you could always buy some yourselves and smoke it back at your hotel or in a park with your kids. Have no reservations about street-wise kids cruising around Amsterdam at night - but you know them better! _______________________ Seattle, WA: Any recommendations for companies that offer cycling tours of the Netherlands? We're interested in a week-long tour. And is spring the best time to tour by bike? Pip Farquharson: Try this cycletours.com/Spring is a divine time to tour... _______________________ Tacoma, WA: A follow up to your answer: What is a night programme? Do the under-18-year-olds have to leave clubs at a certain time, like say 22:00 or 23:00? Or are the night programme's just certain types of club events limited to those over 18? Pip Farquharson: What I meant by night programme was indeed club nights. The Melkweg and Paradiso follow all their gigs with club nights... _______________________ _______________________ Cooper City, FL: My family will be traveling to the Netherlands this October for a family wedding. I was wondering if there were any tips on how to find the best airfare? Does the time we book matter? Airline? Arrival and departure dates? Thanks! Pip Farquharson: Afraid I don't know anything about booking flights outside of the country. But, you'll have a great time at the wedding. Paris is always seen as the ultimate romantic destination but Amsterdam is far more romantic... _______________________ Washington, DC: Dear Pip - My partner and I have long dreamed of moving to Amsterdam (I am a writer and so can live anywhere). We have made many extended stays and love it and the friends we have met. Two questions: - Do you have advice for what is involved in relocating to Amsterdam from a non-EU country (she is Canadian, I am American); - Can you recommend a few books or websites which offer guidance for expats living in Holland? Thank you, Ted Pip Farquharson: Hello Ted Great you're thinking of moving to Amsterdam. It currently has a burgeoning writer's scene with groups like WordsInHere hordsinhere.com/ and is holding the first Amsterdam Literary Festival from May 26-29. I would check Expatica at htpatica.com/ for answers concerning nationality and relocation as I'm British so don't know much about it.. And do check out my site htterwateramsterdam.com/ for more info, and I recommend the Time Out Amsterdam guide and Get Lost! Cool Guide to Amsterdam. Hope you make it! _______________________ Baltimore, MD: What are the dance clubs like in Amsterdam? Pip Farquharson: Dance clubs here are very varied. I would check amsterdamdjs.com/ which has links to the websites of clubs in Amsterdam as well as some information on DJs spinning in the city... _______________________ Tampa, FL: Is there anyway possible to enjoy a comfortable hotel room near central station without spending an obscene amount of money? Pip Farquharson: Hello See my previous posting re the Amstel Botel... It's basic but comfortable. Asides from that just check out the information about individual hotels on online hotel bookings sites. _______________________ St. Pete, FL: We are going to be in Amsterdam with 2 other couples April 23 to 28th. What are the top 3 off the beaten path things you would suggest we do? Pip Farquharson: Hello See early postings re tips off what to do while you're here. What I would suggest seeing which will be on while you're here is the World Press Photo Exhibition. It opens 25 April at the Oude Kerk (Oudekerkplein) This is something I wrote about it: This year marks the 50th anniversary of this prestigious annual exhibition of award-winning photojournalism, which opens in Amsterdam before travelling onto 80 cities worldwide. This year's overall winner is Arko Datta (Reuters, India) with a photo showing a woman mourning a relative killed on the Boxing Day tsunami in Cuddalore in India. As usual, a retrospective of the winnerÕs work will be on show alongside the other award-winning photos (divided into themes). Additionally, there will be a 50 Years Gallery featuring all the winning shots from the past half-a-century. Although the exhibition can often be confronting (there is something intrinsically powerful about a still - as opposed to moving - image) it remains a veritable homage to the photo-journalist who often works in life-threatening conditions to report the news. _______________________ Holbrook, NY: Hello Pip, I'll be arriving in amsterdam on 30 Apr05 for 8 days, This is the third time coming to this great place. I just wondered if you could recommend some local pubs and resturants and maybe some music clubs. We'll be staying in a hotel on Damrak so we're centrally located. Thanks Pip Farquharson: Hello I don't want to be constantly plugging my website but it is a useful resource for bars and restaurants etc! hnderwateramsterdam.com/Also check out htecialbite.com/ which is superb for restaurants htsterdam.info/ is also a very good source of information on the city _______________________ Tucson, AZ: Would you recommend the upcoming Queen's Day celebration as a good time to visit Amsterdam? What are the highlights of the holiday? Pip Farquharson: Only if you like crowds and disorganised chaos! It really is quite an incredible experience and should be experienced at least once. Basically, bars and clubs across the city open up and many have live music or DJs outside, the canals are grid-locked with partygoers on boats. People sell all manner of goods on the streets (it's a tax free day). Can be anything from a t-shirt to a haircut or a kiss. And there's a fair set up on Dam square serving warm donuts ("olieballen"). It's pretty wild and I can guarantee you'll never have seen anything quite like it. There aren't really any highlights as such. I would just wander around the city. If you want to go to a party particularly then just check websites for information nearer the time... Wear orange. _______________________ Pip Farquharson: Hello I'm signing off now before I get RSI! I hope the answers were useful. And have a great time during your stays here! Travel safe, PiP _______________________

Although it's been nearly 300 years since Blackbeard sailed these turquoise waters with the pirate's crimson banner flying from his topmast, red flags still flutter over the sunken treasures of Utila. But these days they signal the exploits of more fun-loving adventurers -- scuba divers exploring the underwater bounty that surrounds this island off the north coast of Honduras. Unlike many Caribbean dive destinations -- including its larger neighbor Roatan--Utila is not an island of fancy resorts or expensive restaurants. There's no beach scene, not a single Jet Ski buzzing across the harbor, and you can count the number of private yachts on one hand. But this 21-square-mile island's spectacular reefs, rustic charm, and low prices are luring travelers -- mostly Europeans -- by the boatload. From the crowded backpacker hostels of Central America to the message boards in cyberspace, the word is out: Utila is one of the cheapest places to dive in the world, and one of the best. "It's the perfect place to learn to dive," says Jeff Van der Hulst, a Dutch dive instructor who teaches on the island. The water is warm, the visibility good, and many interesting dive sites lie only a short boat ride from the harbor. And though global warming has been killing reefs around the world at an alarming rate, Utila's are still, for now, largely pristine. Bizarre corals, exotic sea creatures, and nearby shipwrecks keep divers coming back here year after year. Competition between dive shops--there are 11--keeps prices low. Although the cost of a PADI open--water course can dip to $99, the most reputable dive shops charge $171 for a four--day course -- including insurance and (humble) accommodations. Superior equipment, bigger dive boats, smaller classes, and better instruction account for the difference. Although many divers who come to Utila are already experienced, most of those who step off the ferry have never strapped on a scuba tank in their lives and can barely tell an octopus from a depth gauge. But after a couple of hours of instruction on land, classes shift to the ocean floor, where passing schools of fish seem oblivious to the nervous, bubbling newcomers. Perhaps because diving is a sport that demands an unusual degree of trust -- in yourself, in your diving buddy, and in your equipment -- confidence and camaraderie bloom quickly here. To the syncopated beat of Spanish--language reggae booming from the dive boats, students from a half--dozen countries are soon dancing on deck between dives, and swimming together in water so blue it seems electric. Kicking back, apres dive Later, as the sun sinks behind distant palms, divers gather on the dock of the Tropical Sunset Bar to swap stories and down cold bottles of Honduran beer whose name, Salva Vida, means "lifesaver." And at ten lempiras a bottle (65[cents]), nobody goes thirsty. Friends old and new just savor the evening breeze and watch soaring pelicans dive for fish, becoming mesmerized for long moments that seem impossibly, gloriously perfect. It's a lifestyle that has drawn people to Utila for centuries. Paya Indians, notorious pirates, freed slaves, and British colonists have all, at various times, called this island home. And although Britain signed Utila over to Honduras in 1859, the place still retains an odd Anglo flavor. Longtime residents speak a lilting English that blends Caribbean rhythms with strangely archaic expressions. In fact, they still refer to people from the mainland as "Spaniards," a relic from centuries past, when English privateers hunted Spanish galleons lumbering home to Europe laden with pieces of eight. Despite the quiet presence of a few cybercafes, Utila still has something of a lost--in--time feel, untouched by ATM machines, cell phones, or the modern trappings of convenience. Utila Town, as the community is called, flanks one long street that hugs the harbor. This narrow road, barely wide enough for two cars to pass abreast, is lined with a few small stores, dive shops, restaurants, and old wooden houses -- many with broad porches draped in flowering vines. Island feasts Utila's spirit of simplicity is perhaps best captured in a little restaurant called Mario's -- a dozen tables under a corrugated roof -- that despite its humble appearance serves up a mean barracuda, shark, tuna, wahoo, conch, or calamari -- whatever the fishermen happen to catch that day. And when the power goes out, as it often does, the waiter just lights some candles and keeps on serving. No meal at Mario's tops 75 lempiras ($5), except for the greatest lobster tail ever prepared. Grilled with garlic, olive oil, salt, and black pepper, it's simple and sublime, and only 180 lempiras ($12). RJ's BBQ Grill, at the other end of Main Street, also serves excellent seafood, but is only open on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays. If all you want is a quick snack, stop by the baleada stand facing the bank, where the baleada lady will pat a ball of dough into a corn tortilla and cook it right in front of you, adding cheese, beans, and marinated onions for about five lempiras (35:). A warning, though: Her baleadas are so good it's hard to stop at just one. Another place with character that's off the beaten track but worth the 20--minute boat ride is Susan's, perched on stilts in the shallows of Pigeon Cay, a traditional fishing community just off the western tip of Utila. If you round up a group of four, the boat ride comes out to 100 lempiras ($6.50) each, and Susan's 25--lempira ($1.65) fishburgers -- the specialty of the house -- are great. On Saturday nights, she clears out the tables for dancing. In fact, if you like nightlife, there's action all week on Utila. One of the best places to make the scene is a thatch--roofed bar called Coco Loco's, whose crowded dock doubles as a dance floor, and whose light show -- the glittering night sky itself -- is truly stunning. Diving into bed Hotel rooms on Utila are almost always available, except around Easter and during the town fair in July; most charge in U.S. dollars. A complete list of accommodations on the island -- and elsewhere in Honduras -- is available through the Honduran Institute of Tourism (see box). Competing for your business, many dive shops will include bunkroom accommodations in the cost of their dive packages, but finding a clean bathroom in this category can be hit--or--miss. Generally, it's worth upgrading to the $10--to--$15--per--night range, which will generally get you 24--hour power and water, as well as a private bath with towels. Not all hotels offer hot water, but this being the Tropics, it isn't really necessary. The Margaritaville Beach Hotel (425-3366, e-mail: margaritaville@honduras.com) at the west end of town costs $12 for a spartan double with a fan, private bath, and cold running water. A better value is the two--story Bay View Hotel (425-3114, e-mail: bayviewinternet@hotmail.com). For $14, its sunny doubles with private bath and cold water let you lie in bed and listen to the waves lapping the shore. The mix--and--match linens -- perhaps a Star Wars pillowcase with an NFL bedsheet -- give the place a quirky, unpretentious charm. While there, keep an eye out for the eagle ray that sometimes glides through the boat slip after dark. Another great deal is Rose's Inn (not to be confused with Hotel Rose) on Mamey Lane, a five-minute walk from the harbor. For $15 a night you get a double with fan, private bath with hot water, and access to a kitchen. If you're feeling lazy, you can lie in a hammock on the porch and chat up the expat dive masters who rent rooms there by the month for $150. You can reach the proprietor, Martha Rose, at 425-3283. The nearby Mango Inn (425-3335) on Monkey Tail Road offers doubles with a fan, private bath, and hot water for $25, and all the rooms open onto a long, shady porch (guests who dive with the Utila Dive Center get the same room for $17.50). If you can't live without cable TV and air--conditioning, try a room at the Cross--Creek Hotel (425-3134, www.ccreek.com). Doubles with private bath are $40--reduced to $25 if both guests sign up with the hotel's diving program. Be sure to check out the Cross--Creek dive shack, with its larger--than--life mural of Bob Marley and Che Guevara, one with a doobie and the other with a rifle. A still fancier option is the Utila Lodge (425-3143, e-mail:ulodger@hondutel.hn), built on stilts over the water. Here, doubles with all the comforts run $58 per night. When making reservations, inquire about weeklong dive/hotel packages; dive boats from the Bay Islands College of Diving leave directly from the hotel. Catch it while you can Although Hurricane Mitch left Utila largely unscathed in 1998, the winds of economic change are now starting to buffet the island with even more potentially profound effects. A new airport designed to handle international jet traffic was scheduled for completion at year's end. It will eventually replace the dirt airstrip that now handles daily service via twin--engine puddle-jumpers from the Honduran port city of La Ceiba. Marley Howell, a fifth-generation islander who is a community leader as well as office manager at the Utila Lodge, says the new airport will help attract tourists with more money, spur local development, and generate better employment opportunities for islanders. Utila has also secured foreign aid to revamp its sewer and water system, which is currently inadequate to support the island's 5,000 residents. "We want to see the island progress," says Howell. "Do we want uncontrolled growth? No." But some Utilans worry that's exactly what will happen. "The new airport, when it opens, will completely change the island's culture," says Shelby McNab, unofficial town historian and the director of the Utila Chapter of the Bay Islands Conservation Association. Already, developers are seeking permits for 37 beachfront vacation homes, scouting land for new resorts, and recruiting foreign investors. For the moment, though, a visit to Utila is much the way it has always been -- idyllic. Crabs scuttle across the floor of a restaurant, a man pedals through town with a scarlet macaw riding his handlebars, kids play baseball with a scrap of lumber, and -- just offshore -- darting fish glint amid surreal canyons of coral. Knowing and going Note: To call all numbers in Honduras from the U.S., first dial 011--504. Prices are based on a rate of 15 lempiras to the dollar. Before leaving home, get information about tourism in Honduras at 800/410--9608 or www.letsgohonduras.com. A query on any major travel search engine will generate fares to Honduras on a half--dozen major carriers. A cheap round--trip ticket from Miami starts at about $425, and from Houston at $525. If traveling to Utila from the United States, fly into the northern Honduran city of San Pedro Sula, where daily connecting flights through La Ceiba to Utila are available for $50 each way on Sosa Airlines (668-3223) and Atlantic Airlines (440-2346). The bus/boat combination is much cheaper. Viana (556-9261) offers the best bus service, running between San Pedro Sula and La Ceiba in 21/2 hours for 110 lempiras ($7.50). Then from La Ceiba -- a gritty city with a reputation for crime -- the express ferry MV Galaxy leaves for Utila daily at 9:30 a.m., takes about an hour, and costs 195 lempiras ($13) each way. It departs Utila for La Ceiba at 11:30 a.m. If your schedule compels you to overnight in La Ceiba, try the Gran Hotel Par¡s (443-2391, fax 443-1662, www.lanzadera.com/hotelparis), where a spartan but air--conditioned double with cable TV costs 510 lempiras ($34) and the pool is great. Smaller and with more character is the Posada de Don Giuseppe (tel./fax 44--2812, e-mail: pgiuseppe@laceiba.com), whose doubles with private bath run about 465 lempiras ($31). If you really want to rough it for just 75 lempiras ($5), try the Hotel San Carlos on Avenida San Isidro between Calle 5 and Calle 6 (443--0330). Regarding money on Utila, there is a bank, but no ATM. Generally, you can pay for dive courses and accommodations in dollars, although surcharges apply if paying with credit cards (which are not universally accepted). Plan on paying for meals and the ubiquitous bottled water in lempiras. Dive-shop shopping Shop around before choosing a dive course. Get to know a shop's instructors, ask to see equipment, dive boats, and first aid resources, and don't forget to smell the air in the tanks. Just in case, there's an emergency decompression chamber on Utila, the use of which is covered by insurance costing $3 per day. Recommendable dive shops include Utila Dive Centre (425-3326, www.utiladivecentre.com), Bay Islands College of Diving (425-3378, www.diveutila.com), and Cross--Creek Dive Center (4253134,www.ccreek.com).