Bicycle Tours

June 4, 2005
Nearly two dozen companies that take you biking to all parts of the world

Franklin Roosevelt did it in his youth, gliding for weeks along the country roads of Switzerland and Germany in the course of an enchanted summer. John F. Kennedy, Jr., did it many years ago, on vacation from prep school. And so have many more from other wealthy, or at least moderately well-off, families.

On the lanes and roads of rural France, on the always-level pavements of cycle-loving Holland, over the softly rolling hills of Vermont, in Oregon, and even in Hawaii, increasing numbers of Americans--of ever-increasing age--are flocking to the group bicycle tour.

But why is this activity is often so expensive--$350 and more a day? Why are bicycle tours more costly, on occasion, than tours by escorted motor coach? After all, it is you and your two legs that provide the transportation, eliminating a costly vehicle.

Or is that the case?

What most of us fail to consider, in scanning the bicycle brochures, is that a vehicle almost always does accompany the group, to carry luggage. Unless you've opted for the most rugged form of tour, carrying nothing but your cycling costume, a van or truck and a paid driver follow the bicycling tour at a discreet distance.

Because that group is usually limited to 20 or so people the cost of the vehicle and driver is also divided among fewer people, than on a 45-seat motor coach trip. Thus bicycle tours, except in a handful of instances (see below), will continue to cost an average of $250/day--a sum that's justified by advantages aplenty: the best sort of exercise in the open air, the closeness to nature and contact with rural people, the scenery, and the relief from urban pressures.

But there are pitfalls. They mainly stem from the ease with which underfinanced or inexperienced people can schedule a bicycle tour. Because so many shaky operators flood the mails each year with ill-conceived programs destined to cause trouble, we've sought to ferret out the firms that have made a substantial, long-term commitment to this travel sport. We'll also warn you about the $350 per day companies, whose prices have no justified basis in reality.

Unless otherwise stated, all tours accept members of any age, provide a supply van, and will rent you a bike (for an extra charge) if you haven't brought your own. We've split our company descriptions into two groups. First up are the bargain operations in "Budget Biking" (and sub-sections--North America, Around the Globe, and Especially for Students), followed by the more deluxe outfits in "Splurge Cycling."

Budget biking in North America
The National Bicycle Tour Directors Association is a network of bike organizations, many of which are non-profit and run by bike enthusiasts, not entrepreneurs looking to make a buck. Consequently, many of the tours are super-cheap, and beloved by diehards and occasional riders alike. The NBDTA Web site (www.nbtda.com) allows users to search for where and when they'' like to ride, and how much they''e are willing to spend. They can pick a specific area of North America, or just plug in a price and time range and see what comes up.

Most tours limit the number of riders, so it is a good idea to reserve early. In most cases, you bring your own camping gear and other supplies, but vans or buses will transport everything but you and your bike for you. Here is a sampling of what we found on a recent search, priced around $400 per person: A six-day, 330-mile tour of Maine, priced at $420; a seven-day cycle called the Legacy Annual Great Bicycle Ride across Utah for $300; a three-day 85-mile ride across North Carolina for only $85.

Look up more bicycle tours at nbtda.com/.

Another inexpensive biking operation is "Bike The Whites" a self-guided bike tour company that specializes in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Participants travel inn to inn, choosing their itinerary each morning and traveling solo, or if they desire, with a group of their own choosing. Itineraries are customized to each cyclists needs and desires--they can be tailored to the go-getter who's eager to grind out 50 miles a day, as well as more laid back types interested in seeing waterfalls and lazing by with just 20 miles a day. By emphasizing this self-guided structure, BTW keeps their costs low and passes that savings on to the consumer (they have no group leaders or sag wagon drivers to pay). Tour packages start from $279 in May to $329-$379 from June to September. That price covers a hearty breakfast and three-course dinner each day, your lodgings (at some of the loveliest inns in New Hampshire), customized itineraries and transport of luggage inn to inn. Emergency service is also provided in the event that you or your bike needs first aid. Contact Bike The Whites, 800/447-4345 or Web site: bikethewhites.com/.

An operation similar to Bike the Whites, offered in a similar region of the country, is Country Inns Along the Trail (also known as Inn to Inn), a Vermont-based bike, hike, and ski touring company. Inn to Inn takes care of accommodations at lovely inns and B&B's in the Green Mountain State (with dinner and breakfast usually included), and maps out an itinerary for you. It also provides some limited pickup and drop-off services if inns are spread farther than your legs can carry. Prices vary depending on what kind of accommodations is selected and the time of year, but expect to pay between $135 and $165 per person per night. Inns tend to be family run operations, and meals are usually delicious, many times featuring home-grown vegetables and homemade bread and pastries. For more information, contact Inn to Inn at P.O. Box 59, Montgomery, VT 05470, phone: 800/838-3301 or 802/326-2072, e-mail office@inntoinn.com. Find more details on the Web at http://www.inntoinn.com/. Bike and the Like, a small pedaling outfit run by Suzie and Roger Knable, offers a handful of tours each year along the East Coast. Rides feature accommodations in inns and inexpensive hotels and motels, and usually average well around $70/day. Suzie and Roger test out each route before offering it to clients, and come up with interesting itineraries (usually away from busy roads) in places such as Cape Cod, Cape May, and Lancaster, PA. Bike and the Like's Cape Cod trip, usually offered in early June, is one of its most popular. The trip costs $740 per person with two people sharing a room, and that price includes seven nights' lodging, all your breakfasts and five dinners, luggage transport (so you don't have to pedal with all your gear and clothes), and, of course, guides to lead you around the Cape. Accommodations for this inexpensive adventure are hostels and simple hotels and motels. On most days you'll bike between 30 and 40 miles, but the scenery is lovely and roads are reasonably flat. Ferry rides to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket are included in the package price. Another popular trip is a three-day, two-night tour that usually takes place in mid-April, priced from $220/person in past years. Two breakfasts, a welcome party on Friday night, and a Saturday night dinner are included. The riding is nearly perfectly flat too. If big groups scare you off, take into account that weekend Bike and the Like trips tend to be a bit larger (40 to 60) than typical weeklong tours (around 40). Check in with the Bike and the Like Web site, http://www.bikeandthelike.com/, or call 410/960-6572 or toll-free 877/776-6572 to get the inside scoop. Tour Baja is a California-based outdoor adventure tour company that offers biking, hiking, sailing, and kayaking trips in the famous peninsula south of the Mexico-California border. Owner Trudi Angell has lived in the laid-back Baja region since the mid-1970s, and started offering kayak tours of coastline in the early 1980s. Now there are a variety of tours to choose from: kayaking, bicycling, horseback riding, hiking, sailing, and whale-watching cruises. Most of the guides are transplants like Trudi or natives to the region, all of who know the area and culture very well. Prices are usually decent, $995 for seven- to nine-day trips. A nine-day mountain bike tour, with accommodations in simple hotels and no meals, was priced from just $995 in 2005. In some instances, bike tours can be combined with kayak trips or whale-watching cruises for an additional cost. For bicycle trips in the Baja, contact Pedaling South (Tour Baja's bicycle division), P.O. Box 827, Calistoga, CA 94515, call 800 398-6200, or e-mail info@tourbaja.com. Find Tour Baja on the Web at http://www.tourbaja.com/. Budget biking around the globeCyclevents of Hilo, Hawaii (formerly located in Jackson, WY): The most important reason you'll sit up and take notice of this company is its attitude--it strives to put together the best trips at the lowest cost. Mostly, it keeps its prices down to $150 per night or less (some under $100 a night if you camp). For example, its 14-day ride through the Swiss, Austrian and Italian Alps, called "Tour of the Alps" starts at a lean $1,250 if you camp along the way (opt for hotels and pay-as-you-go per night: prices vary, but expect to pay between $50 and $80 a night). Cyclevents also organizes groups for annual event rides such as a five-night "Spuds: Cycling Around Idaho" trip at the end of August, which starts at a cost of only $400 for camping accommodations. For many of Cyclevents tours, if you stay in hotels, prices hardly qualify as budget. Toughing it out by camping will save you a lot of money. While some of Cyclevents' rides can be handled by a relative novice (albeit a novice who is in very good shape), inquire about all the details before you sign up. Beware that this organization's "easier" trips typically log in over 30 miles per day. For more details, phone Cyclevents at 888/733-9615, or see the Web si¨¾ÐÂÊà)õ\t http://www.cyclevents.com/. For the Benelux countries turn to 4Winds Specialty Tours (formerly known as Bon Voyage Specialty Tours). Why is 4Winds a "specialty" tour operator? Well, instead of coughing up copious amounts of cash for nightly accommodations in hotels or B&Bs, participants sleep on the 4Winds barge. Double cabins with private bath spare the bikers the annoyance of packing and re-packing each night; the barge winds along the many rivers of the region, so bikers have their rooms follow them. Eight days in the famed Loire Valley runs for only $1095 (double occupancy and private bath) between May and mid-September. Many trips start at around $100 per day. Some hotel-based bike tours are also available. Check out the Web site www.4windstours.com or write to 4Winds Specialty Tours, 4500 Victoria Court, West Richland, WA 99353. Call 509/967-3448; fax 509-967-3392; or e-mail st4winds@earthlink.net.Forum Travel International, of Pleasant Hill, California: In business for 40 years, it claims to be one of the oldest and largest of America's bicycle and hiking operators. It achieves that status, in part, by offering -- in addition to the standard forms of group bicycle touring--a non-group method of cycling (self-guided tours) in some of the countries it tours. How does that work? Every morning, you're given a highly detailed map to your next destination, are told when dinner will be served, and then have the entire day to pedal as fast or slowly as you may wish, stopping to sightsee or slumber at the side of the road. When you eventually arrive at your hotel, your luggage awaits, having been delivered there by a van that morning. In this manner, the bicycling tour operator does not need two escorts per group (one to accompany the group, one to drive the van), but only one--the van driver. Non-group tours of this sort average only $70 to $120 a night per person (plus airfare) for breakfast and fine lodgings, and are offered in France, Bavaria, Switzerland, Austria, Hungary, Ireland, Scotland, the Czech Republic, and Italy. Tours in Europe and other parts of the globe are also offered with escorts in the standard group fashion, and tend to cost more. Contact Forum Travel International, 91 Gregory Lane, Suite 21, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523 (phone 800/252-4475 or 925/671-2900, e-mail fti@foruminternational.com, or visit the Web site at http://www.foruminternational.com/). The International Bicycle Fund, of Washington State: For a very special type of traveler, full of adventure and insight, this organization offers two-week-bicycle tours to two, main destinations (Africa and Cuba), and a handful of other spots around the world. The Bicycle Africa program visits countries such as Uganda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, Guinea, Ghana, Burkina Faso, Togo, Senegal, Malawi, South Africa, Mali, Tunisia or Benin throughout the year. Because no traveling van is used, and accommodations are spartan, costs start $1690 for a trip to Guyana. Including airfare to Africa (which can easily cost around $1,100 round-trip to West Africa, $1,500 to southern Africa). "We journey through culture, history, landscapes, cuisines, and lifestyles, close enough to touch them, " says a spokesperson from the IBF. "We enjoy this fascinating and diverse continent on a personal level not usually attainable by tourists." A recent participant adds, "the trip, a month long, is worth four years of college anthropology courses; it was the greatest experience of my life." The IBF's Cuba People-to-People Program, operated in tandem with the "Atenas de Cuba Cycling Club", offers 14-day bike tours starting at $990. A handful of bike tours are offered in other parts of the globe, such as Korea, Ecuador, and North America's Pacific Northwest. Payment for all tours must be with either check or money order (no credit cards accepted). For detailed information and brochures, contact the International Bicycle Fund, 4887 Columbia Drive South, Seattle, WA 98108-1919 (or phone 206/767-0848, e-mail ibike@ibike.org). Or view the Web site at www.ibike.org/ibike. Active Journeys is not exactly a company aimed at the budget traveler, but its set of active and adventurous itineraries are priced reasonably considering the competition. Some of its self-guided biking tours seem to be especially good values. A 17-day ride through Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi, for example, is priced from $2,350. Included in the price are all hotels and all breakfasts, seven lunches, a support vehicle, and a bike rental for the trip duration (airfare is extra). Another decent offer is an 11-day ride through Denmark and Sweden, offered from June to mid-August. Prices start at $1,160, and include bike rental, all breakfasts, five dinners, luggage transfers, and ferry transportation around the Baltic Sea. Some Active Journey bike tours are on the expensive side, however. Find out more at the Active Journeys Web site (http://www.activejourneys.com/), by e-mailing info@activejourneys.com, uDPÊàor calling 800/597-5594.

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Las Vegas: 100 years in the making

If ever a city had a peculiar relationship with its past, it's Las Vegas. In the last 15 years alone, almost five centuries' worth of buildings--and it-could-only-happen-here history--have been bulldozed or imploded (in several cases, on national TV). As a result, Vegas can't celebrate its centennial the way most cities would--that is, by reliving historical moments at the carefully curated scenes of their occurrence. The Desert Inn suite where the reclusive Howard Hughes lived for years? Gone. The wedding chapel at the original Aladdin where Elvis Presley married Priscilla? Gone. Even the Moulin Rouge, the city's first interracial casino resort--it was on the National Register of Historic Places--is gone, having succumbed to arson in 2003. Las Vegas isn't concerned with what we were yesterday or with what we are today," says Hal Rothman, chair of the history department at the University of Nevada at Las Vegas. "It's tomorrow that entices us." And the makeover madness that has swept the city for the past decade shows no signs of abating. Vegas being what it is, the city will celebrate its 100th birthday with a certain amount of schlock: The festivities, which will start and end on consecutive New Year's Eves with extravagant bashes on the Strip, will feature stunts like the world's largest birthday cake and a contest in which 100 winning couples will get married. In one nod to the past, the neoclassical post office downtown will reopen during May for docent-guided tours. The sensational Kefauver organized-crime hearings occurred at the 72-year-old structure back when it also served as a federal courthouse. But if you want more Old Vegas, you're on your own. The best place to start looking is the Neon Museum. It's not a pretty sight: two junkyard-style lots--known as the Boneyard--crammed with more than 100 pieces of nonoperative (but still fabulous) signage. Among the mountains of metal and broken bulbs are the letters from the old Stardust sign and the 20-foot high-heeled shoe that once revolved atop the Silver Slipper's marquee. Museum folks hope to have a proper site in coming years, but for now, appointment-only group tours of the Boneyard are available. Also, 11 of the classic signs are restored and functioning on the public plaza of the Fremont Street Experience, and the Lied Discovery Children's Museum has borrowed 30 unrestored pieces from the Boneyard for an exhibit called "Neon Unplugged," which is running through July. Not every old building has been blown up. The El Cortez casino (a block east of the Fremont Street casino cluster) still has the same low-rise brown-brick gambling hall and neon lights from when it opened in 1941, albeit with a newer, high-rise tower. This is a no-frills Vegas of viscous air, dingy carpeting, and low minimum bets (25¢ roulette tables--after a $5 buy-in--and $1 craps). A few blocks west is the city's oldest hotel, the Golden Gate Hotel and Casino. Built in 1906 as the Hotel Nevada and renamed in 1955, it was advertised as the definition of turn-of-the-20th-century luxury: electric lighting, "large" rooms of 100 square feet, and the city's first telephone. The facade has changed over the years, but many of the wood fixtures date back to the beginning. And it still sells the 99¢ shrimp cocktail, a Vegas cliché that the Golden Gate originated. About a mile east of the Fremont Street area is the Gambler's Book Shop, founded by the late (and appropriately named) John and Edna Luckman. John realized in the '60s that there were fewer than 20 books about gambling in print, so he set up a ramshackle little store that went on to publish over 100 titles. A charming anachronism in the age of Barnes & Noble, it's a privately owned shop with $1 million in annual sales and a proprietor--the longtime manager, Howard Schwartz--who has read most everything he sells. Ask about the gamblers who pop in and out, blaming or thanking the books for their luck. Even parts of the Strip have survived. At the foot of the Strip is the Little Church of the West, a quaint, 62-year-old miniature of an Old West mining-town chapel built of cedar that was moved from its original site, outside of what's now the Frontier Hotel. Dozens of stars have been married inside, both in real life (Betty Grable, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Richard Gere) and in the movies (Elvis and Ann-Margret in Viva Las Vegas). The oldest standing piece of a Strip hotel that maintains its authentic look is the Stardust's 49-year-old villas, smallish two-room suites in two-story white-brick buildings that surround the original nine-foot-deep pool. Only very old pools like it and the fantastic one at the 47-year-old Tropicana Hotel & Casino--which also has a swim-up blackjack table!--are that deep. Pools today are usually more shallow; blame the lawyers. Up the block at Circus Circus is the bizarre Horse Around Bar, lampooned by author Hunter S. Thompson in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. On the second floor, overlooking the hourly trapeze and circus acts, is a circular, open-air, revolving bar that resembles a carousel: The perimeter is ringed with horses and poles, but behind each horse is a black cocktail table. In the center of the room is a round bar. A few restaurants of historic import remain, most notably the thatched-roof Peppermill, a 24-hour diner with swooping, rainbow-colored booths. The bar lost a bit of its onetime Rat Pack panache when plasma TVs were added. Piero's is another iconic haunt, serving outstanding Italian food that was once a favorite of major mob figures. Some of their progeny still swing by. And over at the Four Queens is one of the oldest and swankiest of the gourmet rooms, Hugo's Cellar, where an expensive dinner ($29 to $58 per person) is presented with great pomp: Every woman receives a red rose. Believe it or not, the Strip's longest-running show isn't Wayne Newton's--though he still packs the Stardust's theater nightly--but the 45-year-old Folies Bergere at the Tropicana. It's the quintessence of Vegas showgirl extravaganzas; make of that what you will. At the Flamingo, the 45-year-old Bottoms Up revue, with its goofball comedy and topless dancing, passed its 16,000th-performance mark in 2003 and then closed in October. Creator Breck Wall hopes to find a new home for it. Finally, check out the karaoke sessions at the 55-year-old Bootlegger Bistro, which late on Monday nights routinely draws the likes of Newton, Gladys Knight, Sheena Easton, and Clint Holmes. Young hopefuls try to impress the established stars or simply chat them up for advice. Despite Las Vegas's vast changes, this is still the same old town--where the neon glow somehow makes impossible dreams seem within reach. Las Vegas Lodging Golden Gate Hotel and Casino 1 Fremont St., 702/385-1906, goldengatecasino.net, from $39 El Cortez Casino 600 E. Fremont St., 800/634-6703, elcortezhotelcasino.com, from $25 Stardust Resort and Casino 3000 Las Vegas Blvd., 702/732-6111, stardustlv.com, from $50 Tropicana Hotel & Casino 3801 Las Vegas Blvd., 888/826-8767, ropicanalv.com, from $39 Circus Circus Las Vegas Hotel Resort and Casino 880 Las Vegas Blvd., 877/224-7287, circuscircus.com, from $32 Four Queens Hotel and Casino 202 Fremont St., 800/634-6045, fourqueens.com, from $39 Food Peppermill Restaurant and Lounge 985 S. Las Vegas Blvd., 702/735-4177, pastrami and fries $9.50 Piero's Restaurant 55 Convention Center, 702/369-2305, $21-$45 Hugo's Cellar Four Queens, 202 Fremont St., 800/634-6045 The Bootlegger Bistro 7700 S. Las Vegas Blvd., 702/736-4939, $10-$29 Attractions Historic Downtown Post Office 301 Stewart Ave., 702/229-6710 Neon Museum 702/229-5366, neonmuseum.org, $5 per person for guided tours of 10 or more, $50 total for smaller groups Lied Discovery Children's Museum 833 N. Las Vegas Blvd., 702/382-3445, ldcm.org, $7, kids $6 Little Church of the West 4617 S. Las Vegas Blvd., 702/739-7971, littlechurchlv.com, wedding packages from $199 Shopping Gambler's Book Shop 630 S. 11th St., 702/382-7555, gamblersbook.com

The Best Budget Golf Courses in Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico is going links loco. Eighteen golf courses are sprinkled on the map and another nine are about to leap off the drawing board, making this lush island the premier golf destination in the Caribbean. The invasion of designer-label architects-the Tom Fazios and Jack Nicklauses-has triggered the golf boom, not to mention soaring greens fees. At the Greg Norman-fashioned River Course at Westin Rio Mar Beach Resort, for example, 18 holes in high season cost a wallet-crunching $185. It's such a yawn. These burgeoning high-end courses-all part of extravagant resorts-offer not a clue as to the real Puerto Rico. So insular and flawless and homogenized are they that you might as well tee it up at a Florida golf community. Mercifully, there are alternatives to the posh-links trend. A number of layouts, three of which I recently played, were built years ago and have retained the charm, unspoiled beauty, and simplicity of early island golf. These are courses where the scenery, if not the amenities and turf management, rivals that of some of the game's most celebrated oceanside venues. Their architects are unknown, the grass is a bit patchy, and the clubhouses are virtual shacks. But their drop-dead views, vibrant local color, warm hospitality, and best of all, nominal greens fees, make them far more desirable than their glossy, overpriced counterparts. I also discovered a marvelous new course that is not part of a dinero-draining resort. Three of the four layouts I am about to introduce to you are clustered on Puerto Rico's northeastern coast, within 45 minutes' drive of San Juan, which offers much in the way of aprSs-golf diversions. So pack your clubs-and some evening wear too-and join me on a tour that proves that Puerto Rico is a treasure island for savings-savvy golfers. Bahia Beach Plantation The birdies and bargains begin at Bahia Beach Plantation (787/256-5600, www.golfbahia.com), the most classically tropical golf course in Puerto Rico. From San Juan, go east on Ruta 3, exit at 187 and follow for three miles. The club's entrance is on the right. Carved from a former coconut grove, this enormously popular par-72 public layout, which opened in 1991, is located in the countryside just north of the town of R­o Grande. Bahia's modest greens fees belie the course's majestic scenery. A morning tee time costs $85, but that's a splurge compared to the afternoon rate of $60. Better yet, why not launch that first drive after 2 p.m., when a mere $45 gets you on course? Greens fees include an electric cart, and a free bucket of range balls sweetens the deal. The homey, friendly atmosphere at Bahia more than compensates for the no-frills amenities. The small, well-stocked golf shop is staffed with smiling faces. And the laid-back 19th hole, next to the tenth tee, features a particularly hearty and savory hamburger with chips and all the trimmings for about $6. The numerous scenic highlights at Bahia include El Yunque, Puerto Rico's stupendous rain forest-especially riveting from the fifth tee. But the ultimate visual treat comes at the end of your round. Holes 16, 17, and 18 skirt an empty, halcyon, crescent-shaped beach straight out of South Pacific. Berwind Country Club One mile up the road from Bahia is the utterly bucolic Berwind Country Club (787/876-5380), where the membership is composed of Puerto Rican gentry. But never mind. The public is welcome on Tuesdays, Wednesdays (before 11 a.m.), Thursdays, and Fridays. A mere $65 (cart included) paves the way to memorable golf on a course that has more flamboyant trees than any other links on the island. In summer, the whole layout virtually turns orange. Opened in its present location in 1967 (the original club was in R­o Piedras and opened in 1930), this par-72 track is typical of the tame era before land sculpting and target golf. Flat and long (7,011 yards), it has two menacing traits: stiff winds that wreak havoc on straight drives, and minuscule tightly guarded greens. Following your game, you can kick back in the screened-in 19th hole, order from a menu that features everything from rice and beans ($2) to sirloin steak ($11), and observe the travails of other golfers as they complete their rounds. Dorado del Mar Golf Club To sample one of the island's newer links, visit the four-year-old, Chi Chi Rodriguez-designed Dorado del Mar Golf Club (787/796-3070), where reasonable greens fees are par for the course. From San Juan, take Ruta 22, exit at 693, turn left onto 6693, follow to the end, and turn left on Dorado del Mar. The club's entrance is on the left. While the morning fee is $90, there are several enticing options. After noon on weekdays, $75 will put you on the first tee. The same rate applies after 1 p.m. on weekends. But the real steal is the after-4 p.m. special: Play all the holes you desire for a scant $40. On Tuesdays and Thursdays women can tee off whenever they please for $40. This long (6,940 yards) par-72 layout, near the town of Dorado, is a quarrelsome test. You'll grapple with erratic wind shifts, four-inch-high rough, countless bunkers scattered across tight, rolling fairways, and tricky greens as slick as greased linoleum. But the tenth green offers a beauty bonanza that makes the trek worthwhile. From there you can gaze out over the entire sun-drenched golf course, and immediately behind the putting surface is a jagged plummet into the roiling Atlantic, which in this particular spot changes colors with kaleidoscopic intensity-from aqua to green to navy. Cool down afterward with a cerveza and sandwich (it will set you back about $8) in the new restaurant, which serves up basic, tasty fare and a jovial ambience. Come evening, you can indulge in San Juan's dazzling nightlife, just steps from your spotless, comfortable room at Casa Caribe (57 Calle Caribe, Condado; 787/722-7139). A delightful little inn with garden setting and proximity to the beach, it has exceptional rates: $55 and up for a double during the low season (June 1 to December 14) and $75 and up the rest of the year, continental breakfast included. Punta Borinquen Golf Club For the final leg of your island golf adventure, head for Punta Borinquen Golf Club (787/890-2987), located on the relatively arid west coast, two hours from San Juan. Take the new expressway (autopista) and connect with Ruta 2, which leads to the town of Aguadilla, then take Ruta 110, which ends at the links. Golf doesn't get any more cheapo in Puerto Rico. At Punta Borinquen, the weekday greens fee is a to-sneeze-at $18, and walking is an option, which saves you the cost of a cart ($26). On weekends, the fee inches up to $20, and a cart is mandatory. After 4 p.m. daily, the rate plunges to a staggeringly frugal $9; carts are half-price as well. But Punta Borinquen isn't only about thrift. This par-72, 6,869-yard layout is arguably the most breathtakingly scenic and historically significant golf course in Puerto Rico. Built in the late 1940s as an adjunct to the erstwhile Ramey Air Force Base, Punta Borinquen provided frequent respite for then-General Eisenhower, who always managed to get in at least 18 holes when he flew down to review the troops. The Air Force base has since been supplanted by a Coast Guard station; planes routinely swoop in over the second hole, causing many a missed three-footer. Punta Borinquen's turf is barely kept green by an outmoded irrigation system, but the golf course's format is as sassy as when Ike teed it up, and the vistas are unequaled in Puerto Rico. Roosting atop a massive plateau, this sleepy links has a string of eight holes that virtually teeter over the ocean. In the breezy, strictly utilitarian clubhouse, you can tally your score while munching a media noche ($3.75), a delectable sandwich that combines pork, ham, and turkey in a sweet roll. The club's longtime cook assembles a variety of native dishes at mouthwateringly low prices. If it's late afternoon, you'll see laborers stream in from the nearby sugarcane fields for their daily round. Their ratty bags and ancient clubs notwithstanding, these hombres know how to play. At the end of the day, hang your visor at El Faro, a handsome, oceanside parador (Road 107; 787/882-8000) three minutes from the course (rates start at $75). From your spacious room you can gaze out over glistening waters and reflect on your golf journey in the real Puerto Rico.

Aspen for All Seasons

To most Americans, glamorous Aspen, Colorado, is known for prices higher than the 14,000-foot peaks that surround it. But in fact, some of Aspen's very best attractions are free of charge: hiking and live music in summer, cross-country skiing in winter. Furthermore, quiet arrangements and discreet discounts are mumbled under the breath of just about everyone you meet. Here are a few ways you can enjoy the nation's priciest mountains for a sensible sum. Key budget decision As with most things, timing is everything. You can cut your lodging costs 20 to 60 percent or more by avoiding both the holiday season (mid-December to early January) and winter in general (Thanksgiving through the end of March). Summer (June, July, and August) sees 25 to 40 percent off holiday rates; autumn (September through November) finds prices less than half the high-season tag and the mountains at their prettiest. The least expensive visits are from tour operators that combine airfare, hotel, and activities. "You'll always do better with a five-night, midweek package," says Dana Flach, vice president of operations at Daman-Nelson Travel (800/321-2754, skirun.com), a big California wholesaler. For January stays, she offers "Affordable Aspen," consisting of round-trip airfare to Aspen, hotel with breakfast for five nights, four days' lift tickets, and an apres-ski party each night for $789 per person from Los Angeles, $810 from Chicago, $879 from Atlanta, and $890 from New York. For the autumn months, her best-selling "Aspen Gold" includes airfare and five nights' lodging for $530 from Los Angeles, $550 from Chicago, $620 from Atlanta, and $630 from New York. Unless you buy a package, flying directly into Aspen can be costly. But you may be able to get to nearby Denver cheaply (using one of the big airfare search engines) and then rent a car in Denver from a variety of rental firms for a four- or five-hour drive through glorious countryside to Aspen. Thrifty (800/847-4389, thrifty.com), for example, charges about $160 for the week. If you drive, get a parking permit from your hotel and leave the auto in its lot-street parking is pricey in Aspen. Once in Aspen, you can walk just about anywhere in town. For speedier locomotion, bring a bike or rent one from Ajax Bike and Sports (635 E. Hyman Ave., 970/925-7662) for $25 per 24-hour period, including helmet and lock. The town is very bicycle friendly. Buses in Aspen are free. But it costs $2 to use the bike rack on the front of the bus and $1 if you want Dial-a-Ride front-door pickup service in the Mountain Valley neighborhood. Otherwise, the Roaring Fork Transit Authority (RFTA) boasts you can reach all points in Aspen using the bus system-for nothing. RFTA's Rubey Park Transportation Center (Durant Ave., between Galena and Mill Sts., 970/925-8484, rfta.com) is right downtown, just one block from the Silver Queen Gondola. Most routes leave from there, and schedules are posted. In winter, they have racks mounted on vehicles to carry skis. Before you leave home, be sure to print coupons good for 10 to 20 percent off on activities, lodging, and more from conciergeguide.com. Also, Aspen merchants hate to admit it, but they're willing to "deal" to fill up a snowmobile tour or rent those last spaces on a white-water rafting trip. Lodging Aspen's Central Reservations (888/649-5982, stayaspensnowmass.com) has a "virtual hostel" Web page showing last-minute specials on hotels and condos for two weeks from the date you log on. For example, the Prospector Luxury Condominiums (301 E. Hyman Ave., 800/522-4525) recently advertised units for $75 per night on the virtual hostel page. The normal published rates for the same units are $150 in the autumn and as high as $375 during the holiday season. If you're willing to share a dorm room with strangers and use a bathroom down the hall, you can sleep within walking distance of the Aspen Mountain chair lifts during peak holiday season for as little as $44 per night. The St. Moritz Lodge Hostel (334 W. Hyman Ave., 800/817-2069, stmoritzlodge.com) isn't fancy, but it is clean and well appointed, and rates are even lower in spring, summer, and fall. During the warmer months, your least expensive option is camping just outside of Aspen in one of four Forest Service campgrounds that charge $15 per site per night, plus a reservation fee of $9 (there is a five-day-stay limit). All are within six miles of Aspen, and three can be reached by riding the free bus system. Each site has a picnic table, fire grate, and nearby drinking water and pit toilets. Most supply a spectacular view of the high peaks. Reserve at least four days in advance online at reserveusa.com or by calling 877/444-6777. The campgrounds are closed in the winter. Eats Aspen's fresh air and dazzling views make it hard to go inside to eat. So why do it? Grab all you need for a picnic from the City Market (711 E. Cooper Ave., 970/925-2590). Then save a bundle by enjoying your bagels and yogurt or turkey on rye four blocks away at the marble-slab picnic tables near the Roaring Fork River in Herron Park. In the evening, pick up steaks and charcoal at a grocery store and head to any White River National Forest picnic site for your own sunset dinner at a fraction of the cost in town. Equally pretty-and free-are the tables and fire grills along Castle Creek in the historic ghost town of Ashcroft, nine miles south of Aspen. Don't want to cook? Little Ollie's Chinese Restaurant (308 S. Hunter St., 970/544-9888) will pack you up some yummy moo shu pork for $9.95. Or pick up a $3 slice of New York Pizza (409 E. Hyman Ave., 970/920-3088) to go, a meal in and of itself. If it is too chilly-or snowy-to eat outside, Aspen offers several reasonably priced restaurants. In a sea of fancy eateries, Boogie's Diner (534 E. Cooper Ave., 970/925-6610) is a safe haven of regular food at regular prices. A burger costs $7.50; a Monster Mash Meat Loaf-the most expensive item on the menu-goes for $8.95. Not far away, the Red Onion (420 E. Cooper Ave., 970/925-9043) is an Aspen institution that has been feeding folks for over 110 years with lunch specials like a big, hot turkey sandwich for $6.50. You'll find Mexican food as good as any in Colorado at The Cantina (411 E. Main St., 970/925-3663). The portions are huge, and their chile rellenos ($10.95) are light and airy. Summer in aspen Aspen is surrounded by mountain peaks, crystal-clear rivers, and miles of trails-all waiting to be explored, free of charge. Grab a map at the local forest service office (806 W. Hallam St., 970/925-3445; $6), the advice of the friendly ranger behind the desk, and a sack lunch. Then take yourself on a fine hike. The same technique works for mountain biking, too. Plus, the guys at the bike rental shop can give you tips on the best rides. For $5.50 per person, take the Maroon Bells Bus Tour (970/925-8484, rfta.com), which winds through the Maroon Valley and climbs to one of the most photographed sites in Colorado. The 14,000-foot Maroon Bells, so named because of their striking color and shape, loom over an alpine lake that acts as their reflecting pool. Buses arrive and depart every 20 minutes; a bonus is the interpretive talk of the bus driver. Put your bills back in your wallet and enjoy inexpensive or free programs at the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies (970/925-5756, aspennature.org). A sample of no-cost events includes close encounters with resident eagles and hawks, 45-minute guided nature walks through the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness, and a sunset beaver walk through Hallam Lake Nature Preserve. The Aspen Music Festival (970/925-3254, aspenmusicfestival.com) is a nine-week, summertime gathering of world-class musicians who perform in over 200 events including opera, chamber music, orchestral concerts, lectures, and children's programs. The Benedict Music Tent holds 2,050 seats and houses several concerts that you can enjoy gratis by sitting just outside on the lawn. Hear Noble Peace Prize laureates, New York Times columnists, renowned authors, and others hold forth at the Aspen Institute Summer Speaker Series on Tuesday evenings in July and August. The Aspen Institute (800/525-6618, aspeninst.org) presents other events all year long, from gallery exhibits to galas. The Summer Speaker Series and many other happenings are free and open to the public. Once a world-famous silver-mining town and one of the largest communities in Colorado, Aspen is rich in history. For $10, an escort in Victorian costume will give you a guided walking tour of Aspen's historic and architectural heart. From mid-June through late August, HeritageAspen (970/925-3721, aspenhistory.org) offers this as well as $3 self-guided tours of nearby Ashcroft and Independence Ghost Towns. Winter in Aspen With prices for single-day lift tickets nearing $70, downhill skiing and snowboarding in Aspen are not budget activities by any stretch of the imagination-though with an Aspen ticket, at least, you get four mountains for the price of one: Aspen, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass, and Buttermilk. To save some money, buy multiday lift tickets (four or more days) online before December 1 (877/282-7736, aspensnowmass.com) and you'll receive 20 percent off the window price. Similarly, you'll find a 10 percent discount on multiday passes bought seven or more days in advance. (These were on offer this season; check the Web for 2003-04 discounts.) Feeling a bit lost? Ski "ambassadors" offer mountain tours daily at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. This is a great, no-cost introduction to the massive ski area, and you might even get some helpful budget tips from a local! If you find you need a break after your screaming powder runs, remember that free coffee is provided at the base of all four mountains, and cider and water can be found gratis at the on-mountain lodges. Speaking of powder, want to be the first one on the mountain? (Silly question!) Sign up for Aspen's free (with valid lift ticket) First Tracks program the night before and you will join the ski-school pros on the mountain before everyone else gets out of bed. First Tracks is offered every day at Aspen and on Wednesdays and Fridays at Snowmass. If you prefer cross-country, pay $0 to ski the Aspen/Snowmass Nordic Trail System (970/925-2145, aspennordic.com). Its 60 kilometers of trails start at the ski center at the Aspen Golf Course and roam through surrounding valleys, meadows, and woodlands. It is the largest free, groomed cross-country ski-trail system in North America. Sadly, Aspen's hype often obscures what really makes it special: its beautiful mountain setting. Take a quiet morning walk on the bricks of the Mill Street Mall and watch the first golden rays touch the top of Aspen Mountain three blocks away. Then fill your lungs with frosty air and know that the best things in life aren't just for big spenders.